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psalms83:18

first rock the single stage blower choked on

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psalms83:18

the single stage blower 40somethin inch usually spits em out...but with this soft ground and heavy ice 5"plus, the snow blower grabbed a fist sized rock and bound up...i knew what happened cause I always on alert just incase...so i killed the pro quick then drove her to the shed and parked her till today. I got the rock out and engaged pto.

I'm going to try to explain best I can....

the ""throwing fin"" the one that throws the snow up the chute wedged the rock against the back wall

that pushed the throwing fin (force)straight against the central bar that holds all the fins on...the one that spins and is connected at both ends....

and that force bent my central bar so the bar isn't like this--- its like this ( . Sorry best lines I could make... And now one throwing fin is farther out than the other because of the bow in the central bar.

 

and she wobbles and hops now when engaged and I can't run it or it will shake the whole horse apart!!

 

has anyone ever straightened that central bar without cutting all the fins off?? All imaginations welcomed here!!!

 

 

WP_20151230_13_12_02_Pro.jpg

Edited by psalms83:18
pics
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psalms83:18

h as any one else bent this shaft before??

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nylyon

So the auger itself is bent?  How far out is it? All I can think of is to try and push it back. Maybe with a 2x4 and hammer to bang it back?

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TDF5G

I don't have a snow thrower myself but I see your problem.  I'm not sure how heavy that center tube of the auger is, but I would think you could straighten that if you take it out and put it between some trees or posts or something and bend it back.  Maybe support the ends on blocks or saw horses and push it back straight.   Maybe secure each end to a  large tractor or truck frame or hitch or trailer frame or trees or posts and pull the center out with a come-along or winch maybe or a chain or tow strap tied to a vehicle?  

 

Don't know for sure, just thinking out loud. 

Edited by TDF5G
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psalms83:18

yeah some straps and come along....with some 4'levels for straight edge...

 

I didn't want to bang away for fear of warping, egging, or damaging the ends or bearings. Though that is my usual and most successful tactics!!

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DougC

All you can do is try and bend it back as mentioned. New augers are over seven hundred dollars I believe so even if you take it to a repair shop or automotive frame repair shop to have it straightened it would be much cheaper than a new auger.

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Ed Kennell

I have never had to straighten an auger, but I have straightened truck bumpers and snow plow blades using a wood 4 x 4 as a strong back and pulling the bent part back into shape with threaded rod.

If I had a bent auger, I would try to straighten it in the blower housing.

Use the 3  bolt holes on each side of the housing to attach pieces of angle iron.  Using threaded rod, blocks,  and  strongback, pull the auger back into shape.

The key will be to find the "high spot" and lock it in position so the auger doesn't spin.   I don't think a steady pull will damage the bearings.

 

Pardon my doodling.IMG_5248.thumb.JPG.58e08277f205da98d69c4

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psalms83:18

I would like to do it without taking the auger out...but the pressure to the bearings and the shaft ends could egg out or bend in the wrong spot a spot I don't want it too...

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Ed Kennell

If you take it apart, you may want to put in new bearings as they will probably be damaged during removal.

Option #2...buy another used blower and keep this one for spare parts.  Blowers go for $150-250.   I think Ericj just sold one for $70.

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psalms83:18

I think I gonna try your strong back bolt down method on a steel bench table I have..but I'm gonna try with the auger out first...thanks guys ill keep updated

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DennisThornton
16 hours ago, ekennell said:

I have never had to straighten an auger, but I have straightened truck bumpers and snow plow blades using a wood 4 x 4 as a strong back and pulling the bent part back into shape with threaded rod.

If I had a bent auger, I would try to straighten it in the blower housing.

Use the 3  bolt holes on each side of the housing to attach pieces of angle iron.  Using threaded rod, blocks,  and  strongback, pull the auger back into shape.

The key will be to find the "high spot" and lock it in position so the auger doesn't spin.   I don't think a steady pull will damage the bearings.

 

Pardon my doodling.

 

Well I like that idea of using threaded rod!  Sometimes the simplest of things gets the job done! 

 

I recommend a very controlled force and expect to over straighten a bit so it can spring back a bit to true straight.

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Ed Kennell
7 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

 

 

 

I recommend a very controlled force and expect to over straighten a bit so it can spring back a bit to true straight.

 

     :text-yeahthat:  And that spring back means trial and error to get it straight.  May need to spin it in Vee blocks to check straightness after each attempt.

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psalms83:18

true true

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DennisThornton
1 minute ago, ekennell said:

 

     :text-yeahthat:  And that spring back means trial and error to get it straight.  May need to spin it in Vee blocks to check straightness after each attempt.

 

Trial and error, absolutely!  Perhaps over-straightening a time or two!  But as long as force can be applied where needed I believe doable.  Fins will no doubt get in the way and I could see that being a PITA!

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ericj
On 12/31/2015 at 11:16 PM, ekennell said:

If you take it apart, you may want to put in new bearings as they will probably be damaged during removal.

Option #2...buy another used blower and keep this one for spare parts.  Blowers go for $150-250.   I think Ericj just sold one for $70.

Ed the blower i sold was only a 32" blower, but, psalms,  i have another one that i just posted on c/l, a 36" with wings, to be a 42" for $ 150.00 and i also have a vertical shaft blower with a real nice auger in it that if interested pm me. good luck and i hope you can get it straighten out before a big snow shows up at your door step 

 

 

 

eric j

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psalms83:18

heres plan A

 

with the little 1ton jack lifting as hard as it could and giving out before the straps did.... I got about a half inch of play....it was a 1\4" bent and I got it close to 1\4 inch over bent and that's all the little jack could do.

so i heated the central tube and let her cool at the ""correcting" bend" under pressure, hoping to let its memory change a little.... Other wise maybe big car jack...

but plan B ..is to weld on little reinforcing steel plates to balance it just like a car rim.

WP_20160105_12_28_38_Pro.jpg

WP_20160105_12_28_18_Pro.jpg

2 1\2 tons!!! Still jack can't bend it past 1\4"

:eek::bitch:

WP_20160105_002.jpg

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psalms83:18

keep that in mind how much force it must have been exerting to bend it when it was spinning on the machine!!

and not to let your fingers and toes get near it!! Or for that matter stray cats or even your neighbors John Deere may get ""accidently """" chewed up:ROTF:

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AMC RULES

Guard your cats and toes...    :greetings-wavegreen:

but know them Deere are expendable.

Edited by AMC RULES
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DennisThornton

I like your setup.  Bigger jack if the heat doesn't do it.  Maybe a 5 ton bottle jack will work.

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Ed Kennell

Looks like the nylon straps are the limiting factor in your set up.

I like the rigidity of the steel table and jack stand, and I would  pull the auger down with threaded rod.

A 4x4  timber or  3x3x1/4 angle iron above the auger and below the table and 4 pcs of 1/2-13 threaded rods with greased double flat washers under each nut will pull 6-8 ton.

Edited by ekennell
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psalms83:18

true more force may move it...but how much can you forsee that middle pipe creasing when it bends like an old aluminum antenna once bent it just creases and breaks all I one spot!?

 

the straps are definetly not moving or giving so far.. At 2tons.. They wont last under 5ton bottle jack though I'm sure, cause they are 500lb straps.

thanks ekenell , i would try the threaded rod but i dont have any good peices that are long or strong enough, only scraps..

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DennisThornton

I like your ideas, and you are probably right again about the straps not liking 5 tons.  I'm not sure about your bench since I can't quite tell it's construction but it might need some thought too.  I'm thinking you are close and won't need the full 5 tons.  I'm a big fan of chains but they can get scary when they break.  If go with chains do some research and use something rated for more than you are going to apply.  http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/WLLchart.htm

 

However, as I look more closely, what about setting your stands more to the center leaving just enough room for your jack and then the straps to the far ends.  I think you'll get better leverage and maybe what you have will work.

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psalms83:18

I got some chains that would work....

 

and as I was just starring at the pics I think the straps should be moved also....to the ends

 

the table is plate steel and for building custom motorcycles

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WNYPCRepair

I may be wrong, but I seem to remember knots in straps cause weak points.

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psalms83:18

oooo yeah I was not putting my face towards that contraption while I was pumping it :angry-nono:

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