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Similar Content
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By Tfarver
This is my commando I just picked up awhile ago. Looks like it was-tried to be a puller. Got it with no motor but have a strong 14 to install. Does anyone know how to preserve the sheet metal but keep the “rust look”. Will be using this unit for small farm chores. I really like the look currently with the rust and wear, kinda tells a story I suppose but I don’t want to leave the Tin “unprotected”. I’ve heard of guys lightly rubbing down the metal with used motor oil? Any thoughts, comments, concerns are highly appreciated!
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By Ifixoldjunk
so the whole corner of my 42 rear discharge was completely rotten away. I’ve welded sheet metal before, but I don’t really know what gauge steel is need for a solid repair. I have 16 gauge on hand. Would something thicker be needed?
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By DennisThornton
I've killed a LOT of rust in my time from semi tankers to tiny tools with big sandblasters, electricity, abrasives and chemicals. One of my fondest is Evaporust but I just saw a video that really impressed me:
http://drxcleaner.com/videos/
Anyone seen or perhaps used it?
And if you haven't tried Evaporust perhaps you should.
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By DennisThornton
http://strongarmbrand.com/
I've used, liked and recommended "Fluid Film" and TC-11 but never tried StrongArm. Kind of pricey but if it works like this:
Here's Before and After with 35 year old
and Restored by a USA fluid User in Daytona
Anybody used it? Or anything similar that you like?
Thank! -
By WH 312-8 Fan
So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good?
I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together?
See that attached photos for a bit more clarity.
Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well.
Thanks for any help!
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