Generator Project

[bds1984 1,442]

Thanks for the tip, I will try that Garry.  Thanks!

[WH nut 553]

On ‎2‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 3:23 PM, bds1984 said:

Okay, since there is a snowplow in my 520H, I decided to test out the generator on my C165 instead.  Attaching wasn't much of an issue, but proper engine speed is!  It looks like the PTO pulley on the C165 is about 5" so at 2000 RPM I was generating over 200 volts!  At a straight idle on my C165 I was getting around 120-130 volts while I had 1100 watts of lights on it with the engine running around 1500-1600 rpm like nothing was there.  Needless to say, I will not be running the generator on the C165.  The governor is all shades of not working correctly because I am either 900-1800  at idle and if I bump the throttle, she goes right to 2800 RPM but will stay there all day long unless I open it up more and no in between.  I can change the pulleys no problem, I'd just never use this machine for generator duty since I'm having issues maintaining a constant engine speed.

What size pulley did you use on the generator. The inside groove on the PTO should be a 4 inch so if you used a 4 in on the generator it should be a 1 to 1 ratio so full throttle at 3600 RPM sure be perfect. if you wanted to run you motor at about 3?4 throttle you would need the drive pulley (PTO) at 4 inch which it is and the driven pulley needs to be 2 inch

http://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt.aspx

Edited February 7, 2016 by WH nut
Add

[bds1984 1,442]

The pulley on the generator is 3 inches because the top speed of my 520's engine is 3200 RPM.  I am not using the generator on the C165 because of the governor issues; I just attached it just to test it to see if it worked.  My 520 is much more conducive for generator duty since it is MUCH quieter, fuel efficient, and longer maintenance intervals with the M18 powering it.  

[WH nut 553]

5 minutes ago, bds1984 said:

The pulley on the generator is 3 inches because the top speed of my 520's engine is 3200 RPM.  I am not using the generator on the C165 because of the governor issues; I just attached it just to test it to see if it worked.  My 520 is much more conducive for generator duty since it is MUCH quieter, fuel efficient, and longer maintenance intervals with the M18 powering it.  

According to the chart from the link I posted above, your gen pulley needs to be 3.6 in if the tractor is running at 3200 RPM

Edited February 7, 2016 by WH nut

[bds1984 1,442]

If I were running a four inch pulley on my engine that'd be correct, but I'm not.  It's 3.5 inches on the PTO, I've used that website before and it takes all the guesswork out calculating.  I can't run a WH pto on this 520's engine since it has no thrust bearing as it came out of a early 90s Cub of some flavor.  This tractor is completely thrown together and is only used for pushing snow, pulling trailers, and now, generator because of the pto situation.  

[WH nut 553]

20 minutes ago, bds1984 said:

If I were running a four inch pulley on my engine that'd be correct, but I'm not.  It's 3.5 inches on the PTO, I've used that website before and it takes all the guesswork out calculating.  I can't run a WH pto on this 520's engine since it has no thrust bearing as it came out of a early 90s Cub of some flavor.  This tractor is completely thrown together and is only used for pushing snow, pulling trailers, and now, generator because of the pto situation.  

Oh ok, I got you

 

[woodchuckfarmer 333]

WHY not get a tack that works with reflective tape and set your RPM on the generator with that at 3600 RPM.

[WH nut 553]

5 minutes ago, woodchuckfarmer said:

WHY not get a tack that works with reflective tape and set your RPM on the generator with that at 3600 RPM.

You could just use a volt meter also, but if you size everything right you just pull the throttle and go. I went ahead and  mounted a voltmeter to the generator so there is no guess work

Edited February 7, 2016 by WH nut

[bds1984 1,442]

I used a volt meter, too, since I didn't really trust the ones that came on my head unit (they look very cheap).  They came within 10-15 volts of my meter.  

 

Oh, and I already have a tach on the tractor so for me it is just easier....  although I really should invest the few dollars into the optical tach for other projects.  

Edited February 7, 2016 by bds1984

[WH nut 553]

7 hours ago, bds1984 said:

I used a volt meter, too, since I didn't really trust the ones that came on my head unit (they look very cheap).  They came within 10-15 volts of my meter.  

 

Oh, and I already have a tach on the tractor so for me it is just easier....  although I really should invest the few dollars into the optical tach for other projects.  

Get yourself one of there. they are about 15 bucks and very accurate, Its called a Sirometer

[Aldon 4,827]

10 hours ago, WH nut said:

Get yourself one of there. they are about 15 bucks and very accurate, Its called a Sirometer

 

 

Where did you source yours WH Nut? I found 'em for 36.24 and a little less with shipping elsewhere. Just wondering if there is a bargain out there I am missing.

[WH nut 553]

17 minutes ago, Aldon said:

 

Where did you source yours WH Nut? I found 'em for 36.24 and a little less with shipping elsewhere. Just wondering if there is a bargain out there I am missing.

Im not sure, have had mine for years, I think I got it when I was wrenching at the dealership through our parts house. I will have to do some checking.

I guess they have gone up, I found one for 25 bucks.http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tachometer/19200/1610632

 

[bds1984 1,442]

19 hours ago, WH nut said:

Get yourself one of there. they are about 15 bucks and very accurate, Its called a Sirometer

I completely forgot about those!  I used to have one, but the one time I bring in my personal tools to use in my classroom for a demo, it magically grew 'legs' and walked off.  I've always head them called a Vibro-Tach.... six to one, half-dozen to the other.  

 

[WHX?? 49,119]

I've never seen or heard of those before... how do they work?? Do you just hold in on the end of a spinning shaft? Looks like they tell you frequency too??

[bds1984 1,442]

Well from what I remember, it's been years, you feed the tape/wire out by rotating the top portion of the unit until it begins vibrating at the tip as it is sitting in the top of the engine???  Then from there you feed it back in until it reaches a point of not vibrating; I believe there are certain markings on the tape/wire that have rpm increments.  It's been so long that I cannot remember it 100% but I think it is something like that at it works off the vibrations from the rotations of the crankshaft.  Someone correct me if I'm wrong but that is how I remember it, mostly.  I've upgraded my classroom with one of these:

 

Or, I've used the method listed here that uses a multi-meter.  Sites like this are priceless for teaching small engine type classes.  

[WHX?? 49,119]

Digtal age now don't ya know!

[WNYPCRepair 1,921]

16 hours ago, bds1984 said:

you feed the tape/wire out by rotating the top portion of the unit until it begins vibrating at the tip as it is sitting in the top of the engine???  Then from there you feed it back in until it reaches a point of not vibrating; I believe there are certain markings on the tape/wire that have rpm increments.  It's been so long that I cannot remember it 100% but I think it is something like that at it works off the vibrations from the rotations of the crankshaft.

That is what I gathered from here:

http://www.treysit.com/9.html


"

How to use a Treysit Sirometer

Using a Treysit Sirometer is very simple.
Place it tightly on the outside case of the running motor.
By turning the top part of the Sirometer it emits a piece of wire. When the wire is in resonance with the vibrations of the machine it will show it by vibration. When the wire reaches the resonance point the RPM and frequency can be read. The upper scale shows RPM and the lower scale shows cycles per second. To get used to it try it on a motor with known RPM and adjust the Sirometer to the scale. Reduction gears show a misreading.

Please note: Gas motors give the RPM of the crankshaft but other fast running shafts may influence the reading.

After using the Sirometer a few times taking RPM reading will be easy. If the top part has turned heavy after having been used for a time, put a drop of thin oil into the brass-wire-loop, after the brass-wire has been turned out.

Measuring range: 
800-50 000 rpm 
14-750 cycles per second."

[WH nut 553]

23 hours ago, WHX6 said:

I've never seen or heard of those before... how do they work?? Do you just hold in on the end of a spinning shaft? Looks like they tell you frequency too??

All you do is lay it on a motor case or anything that's spinning. Feed out the wire until it vibrated and looks like a solid arch. It measures frequency. We used it mostly in the shop to find noises. All  noise is vibration. So if you found the frequency you could narrow down what could be making the noise. You can utube  and see how they work. Very accurate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAFwbkHoLVA

Edited February 9, 2016 by WH nut

[ztnoo 2,298]

Speaking of tractor powered generators again, I saw something online at one of those unmentionable sales sites.

Kinda peaked my interest after seeing this thread.

What do you guys think........If you were a seller, what would be your asking price?......and if you were a buyer, what would you be willing to shell out?

PM me for more info,if desired.

 

    

 

   

 

[Aldon 4,827]

Looks like it might be a Wheel Horse generator. Also looks like it has a WH sticker.

 

I Bet the owner is a forum member.

 

There is one, although not exact same on auction site if you want compare.

[ztnoo 2,298]

Aldon,

PM the link.

Steve

[ztnoo 2,298]

Looks like there's opportunity for those looking for it.

A Generac unit.

Offering from another site:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 10, 2016 by ztnoo

[WH nut 553]

Cheaper to build one if you have an old generator head laying around.

[TDF5G 2,069]

15 hours ago, ztnoo said:

Looks like there's opportunity for those looking for it.

A Generac unit.

Offering from another site:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's been on there for a while.  Price is significantly lower than what it started it out as.  

[ztnoo 2,298]

1 hour ago, TDF5G said:

That's been on there for a while.  Price is significantly lower than what it started it out as.  

 

Huumm..... well, I wouldn't call it exactly cheap now. What was the original price?