Drive belt tension on hydro

[arrkerr 54]

I recently picked up a 1980 C-145 auto.  Had a LOT more work than the seller led me to believe, but it is coming along nicely finally.  The small stuff sure adds up though.  The drive belt was in horrible shape, so I just put a new one on.  The new one is supposed to be the right part number, Toro 7473, but I'm worried it doesn't have the tension it should have.  The tensioner pully / spring is just about fully released.  It drives just fine and seems to be gripping, but I haven't worked it too hard yet (still working on other bits of the tractor).  The release lever sure does flop around a LOT - is this normal?  The only other hydro I've had is my 520 which doesn't have a belt release.

 

The belt I bought says Toro 7473 (5/8x82) - its not a genuine Toro belt, I don't recall the brand but I can go track down the packaging.

 

Thanks for the help.  I can take a picture and/or video if that helps.

 

(if anyone happens to have knobs for the automatic lever for a reasonable price, let me know :)).

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

check our vendors section. glen petit for knobs. good luck.

 

Glenn

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

The 7473 belt is for the 6-speed gear transmissions.

 

In 1980 the early models used a Sundstrand transmission and the later models used an Eaton hydro. Different belts and both are listed on this page now.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3618-tractor-1980-c-145-auto-da-tipl-snpdf/

 

Garry

[arrkerr 54]

Mine has an Eaton, I should have specified.

 

According to partstree, Toro 7473 is the correct belt.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/01-14ke01-c-145-toro-c-145-automatic-tractor-1980/drive-belt-and-pulleys/

 

So I guess they're wrong, and I need "Tractor drive belt 108501 (5/8" x 81.50")"?  Am I reading that page right?

 

I notice that many ebay sellers list the 7473 and the 108501 as having the same replacement, and give the 5/8" x 82" measurements.  Is the 1/2" enough to cause enough lack of tension to be a big deal?

 

Is the belt release lever suppose to bounce around a lot, or do I have something wrong (tension or otherwise)?

Edited December 9, 2015 by arrkerr
typo

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

Here is what I used

The TIPL in the first link is the parts list from Toro and this is what Partstree copied. The originals are shared by similar models and the reason for the mistakes and confusion. You can't beat an original parts list but we don't have that one yet.

 

Any chance you can get an original from Toro? That is the only place you can get a fractional inch belt. Will guess a 81" would be too short.

 

I don't know hydro models so can't answer your noise problem unless this addresses it

 

Garry

 

 

[arrkerr 54]

Thanks, it sounds like the handle jumping around like crazy is pretty common then, and I can follow the steps in that bulletin to reduce it.

 

I went ahead and ordered the proper belt.  $20 amazon prime, not too bad.  We'll see what difference a 1/2" makes on the tension.  It seems like the idler has so much travel that it would be tolerant of a good 1" variation of length, but... we'll see.

 

[can whlvr 993]

the parts listings often put all the belts in the list,i don't know why,but I asure you its not a 7473,as gary stated that's for the gear driven tractors,someone will chime in with the proper number,

[JackC 617]

"Is the belt release lever suppose to bounce around a lot, or do I have something wrong (tension or otherwise)? "

 

It is not supposed to bounce around a lot but that is a common wear point on those tractors.

I typically take the belt cover off and replace the parts that I can including the tension pulley and spring washer if they are worn.

In the pic below the plastic cooling fan was removed from the pump pulley.

The shorter belt may help.

 

[PaulC 341]

Arrkerr don't feel bad I just recently did the same exact thing and I did it on my own looking through the parts manuals we have on this site, and this is all after correctly replacing a drive belt on another hydro tractor of mine a few years ago. The 108501 belt is definitely the one you need, surprisingly that 1/2" on the length makes a huge difference. The trans release lever will still bounce around some but it should be way less and not as noticeable with the correct length belt. Any 8 speed guys reading this Arrkerr and I have gently used drive belts for you

 

Like Jerseyhawg Glenn said Glen Pettit a vendor on here is the spot to get those knobs. I actually just bought a set of those too. Hes a great guy to deal with and has a lot of other really cool  stuff in his vendor section.

[Tankman 3,518]

Try Huskee Kevlar belts.

On the TSC shelves, inexpensive and hold up great.

I label the cardboard sleeves and staple gun 'em to the shop wall.

[arrkerr 54]

The new belt came today, popped it on in about 5 minutes (I'm getting fast at this).  This lead me to discover that the release lever still had a lot of slop, so I pulled the pulley and found that the slot in the release lever was worn in to a long oval.  So... now I just need to source a new lever, although I suppose I can use it as-is for now, it isn't really hurting anything.

Wrong belt, 1/2" too short:

 

The right belt:

 

The worn out hole in the release handle/lever:

[Martin 2,132]

this is a different model, but same principle behind the mechanical action of the belt tension release. The hole should look something like the repaired part in this pic. This was a fix on my 1277 but it gives you an idea of what the hole shape should be. Make sure you have a good bushing on that pivot/slide area as well......

 

Thread.....   http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/34091-1277-hydro-getting-some-love/?do=findComment&comment=297750

 

[arrkerr 54]

I wonder if there is any harm in leaving the worn out lever in place?  Certainly it flops around a bit more than it should, but it doesn't seem like it would cause any more wear to any other parts, and it doesn't affect the tension at all.  I'm sure I'll replace it at some point, just trying to decide if I should put the tractor back together for now or order the part and wait a few more days.

[peter lena 8,709]

arrkerr, that belt looks correct, as you are finding out all your related linkage pieces need replacement ,  I notice all the rusty / dry movement areas . aerosol penetrating lubricant , will make the rust run out and make all use much easier, as you replace linkage pieces ,  you can add bronze wear sleeves and red lubricant , it will stand up . another opportunity I am looking at is to re grease that wide rubber seal , idler pulley , with a hi temp grease , lucas red and tacky , no more noise / or failure , changed over all 3 of mine in related area , smooth seamless operation , pete        

[seuadr 488]

37 minutes ago, peter lena said:

arrkerr, that belt looks correct, as you are finding out all your related linkage pieces need replacement ,  I notice all the rusty / dry movement areas . aerosol penetrating lubricant , will make the rust run out and make all use much easier, as you replace linkage pieces ,  you can add bronze wear sleeves and red lubricant , it will stand up . another opportunity I am looking at is to re grease that wide rubber seal , idler pulley , with a hi temp grease , lucas red and tacky , no more noise / or failure , changed over all 3 of mine in related area , smooth seamless operation , pete        

since this was in 2015, i'm guessing the problem is resolved, or no longer applicable

[arrkerr 54]

15 hours ago, seuadr said:

since this was in 2015, i'm guessing the problem is resolved, or no longer applicable

This horse is still in the family and going strong, but thanks for the reply. 

[WHEELHORSEnutz 2]

Appreciate this thread. And to know as of 2021 your C-145 is still going. I have exactly the same model. Just replaced the drive belt (from TSC - Husky) as one of the guys mentioned. Has been working great - today it started to bounce around a lot. I did recently replace the engine mounts with solid mounts (As found in another thread). The idler works - but, it isn't disengaging the belt enough that it stops moving the pulley's. Hasn't been an issue, I just set the brake so it stays in neutral position. Any thing else that you learned over the years - I would appreciate the advice. Thanks