Transmission Transplant

[WHnoob 21]

I finally got a couple hours of shop time to try to assemble one working tractor from the C-160 (broken tranny) and B-80 (broken engine), both 1974's.  The short-term goal is to move the 4-speed from the B-80 into the C-160 in time to use it for snow-blowing this winter.  Then over the winter I can work on rebuilding both the 8-speed from the C-160 and the K181 on the B-80.  So I got both transmissions detached from their respective tractors and it looks like everything should bolt right up - even the input pulleys are the same size!.  However I encountered two problems with the 4-speed so far:

1.  The right hub is turning on the axle, so something is obviously wrong with the key/keyway.  I don't currently have a hub puller to see what's up.

2. The left wheel is stuck/rusted to its hub.  I tried some PB blaster and pounding a cold chisel into the gaps between the wheel and hub but it didn't budge.  I wanted to just switch the wheels, since the C-160 has larger diameter tires (though the wheels are the same size), and the B-80's tires aren't looking so great.  But maybe the C-160 will just have to have a low rear end for the winter.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Holler if you need help!

[sorekiwi 761]

If the axle is turning inside the hub, then you are probably not going to need a hub puller, it'll be plenty loose enough.

 

As for the stuck on rim - once the tractor is mobile again, loosen the lug nuts and drive the tractor in a circle.  The wheel normally breaks loose.

[WHnoob 21]

The hub doesn't spin loosely around the axle, only about a quarter turn if everything is lined up right.  I was only able to get it about 1/2" off by suspending the transmission by the hub from sawhorses and pounding the axle with a mallet.  So I think I will need a puller.  One of the hubs on the 8-speed is loose (due to leaking axle seal), so I may be able to rig up a puller using that since the bolt pattern is identical.

 

I like the driving in circles idea for loosening the wheel - can't wait to try once it's drivable!

[stevasaurus 22,713]

There are a few threads on here that show how to make a puller out of another hub.  They work great. 

here is a link to one kind..

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/196-pulling-rear-hubs/

[racinfool40 202]

Do not pound on the hub or the axle..if you knock off the snap ring inside the differential that holds the axle...You will be splitting the trans to repair them....FYI.

[sorekiwi 761]

I think what has happened with your hub is that the keyway in the hub has wallowed out.  Now the key will be sitting in that wallowed out piece instead of the groove that goes all the way through the hub.  What you have to do is line up whatever is left of the key with the groove in the hub, and then the hub will come off.

 

[WHnoob 21]

Is a wallowed keyway repairable, or will the hub and/or axle likely have to be replaced?  I may not get any further until the weekend, but will post an update with what I find.

[stevasaurus 22,713]

We have a few threads that deal with enlarged key ways...here is one of them   There is another one in the Reference Section/Transmissions.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/58007-enlarged-keyway/

[WHnoob 21]

Well the hub on the 8-speed required a little more than hand strength, so I rigged up a 2-bolt puller from the only suitable piece of metal I could find: a bent mower blade:

Both the hub and axle keyways are a bit widened, and the key itself is not looking so great:

 

The bolts I picked up to use this hub as a puller are slightly too short, so I also tried the mower blade puller on the 4-speed hub. But it still doesn't budge past the 1/2" mark, even in the position that seems best aligned. I didn't want to apply too much force and risk breaking the hub with only 2-bolts of puller, so I will have to get some longer bolts to try with the freed hub.

[WHnoob 21]

Well I finally got some more time to work on this.  Last week I bought what appears to be a fully functional 8-speed transmission from a 416-8 someone had posted on Craigslist.  Last night I got it installed in the C-160 and put everything back together.  I even replaced the few-year-old battery since it was having trouble cranking the K341.  I was getting really excited to do drive some victory laps today, but when the engine started running I saw it was spraying fuel out from between the two halves of the fuel pump.  Darn!  I guess it will have to wait for another day until I can rebuild/replace the fuel pump.

[Pullstart 62,829]

If it ain't one thing...

[WHX?? 48,813]

Its a dozen others....

 

link here to a source for  fuel pump rebuild kits if it helps http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/56576-3-parts-suppliers/

[WHnoob 21]

Thanks!  It was leaking fuel sometimes while parked before, so I probably should have expected this.  I ordered 2 of the fuel pump rebuild kits from Then and Now (one for the B80/K181 as well).  Then I can get back to work on the original 2 transmissions.  I'm still hoping to get the 4-speed fixed without splitting it, at least to get it bolted back on the B80 so it can be pushed around the shop more easily while its engine gets rebuilt.  My father-in-law said he has some of the expensive keyway repair epoxy and has successfully used it on machinery at his foundry, so that may be worth a shot.