Harbor Freight tent garage/storage shed and wind.

[WNYPCRepair 1,918]

I have one of those HF 17 x 20 tent garages. If it survives the night, I will be highly impressed. We are having some HEAVY wind, and some of the gusts just shook the house. The tent sounds like a flag flying in heavy wind. Frame is swaying back and forth, up and down. 

 

But we have had wind like this before, and it has stayed put. 

[slammer302 2,155]

I just put one up a couple weeks ago and have had sum of that HEAVY wind here the last couple days and its still standing i have add a few extra straps inside to help hold it down 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Good luck with your garage. Hope it withstands the wind.

[DougC 2,641]

I have been thinking about one of those myself but I.m up on a hill in the country exposed to the west wind and didn't think it would work in my case. Sounds like they must be well designed if it has stood heavy winds in your area.        

[WNYPCRepair 1,918]

Still there this morning, no problem. This is year 2 for me, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if you need storage.

[rmaynard 15,432]

I ran spiral dog chain stakes into the ground at all four inside corners. 


Then I attached ratchet straps to the frame at the top of the walls and to the stakes. I haven't had any serious winds since then, but this will be the second winter that the tent garage has been in use.

 

 

I worry more about the snow load on the top.

Edited November 19, 2015 by rmaynard

[WNYPCRepair 1,918]

I ran spiral dog chain stakes into the ground at all four inside corners. 


Then I attached ratchet straps to the frame at the top of the walls and to the stakes. I haven't had any serious winds since then, but this will be the second winter that the tent garage has been in use.

 

 

I worry more about the snow load on the top.

I go in mine when the snow buds up and just tap the inside of the roof with a foam snow rake (or push broom) and the snow slides off. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Brian, there's all kinds of things you can do.  

A 20ft board as sill plates, even built up 2x4x10 PT on the ground under the posts can really strengthen the sides and add provisions for anchors whether screw in, long spikes or even pieces of rebar driven into the ground through the sills.  Screw the post anchors to the wood and then screw the connectors to the post tops with self-drilling metal screws!  I like running cord through all the side grommets in the top and then several EPDM bungies from loops in the cord to the bottom of the post anchor (most have eye screws).  You can use a bungie per grommet but I'm cheap and have lots of good cord.  Now the posts, the top rails and the top are pretty well anchored to the boards that are also pretty well anchored to the ground.

Ratchet straps from the top rails near each side posts to the opposite post will act as collar ties.  Ratchet straps from the center of top rails run up over the ridge rail to the other side top rail will really help prevent snow from sagging the tops down and make it so much easier to remove the snow.  Best to not let the snow accumulate and really best to not let it thaw and refreeze into blocks of ice.

And IF, you can support the ridge with uprights down the center of the tent they will take about whatever snow this side of the state offers!  Not sure about the Buffalo side!  

[WNYPCRepair 1,918]

I have the screw in the ground anchors at the corners, and the middle posts are screwed directly into the concrete pad underneath. The tent is exactly the size of the pad.   

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

Sounds like everyone has had pretty good luck with these little garages...thinking about buying one in the near future. We have a shed here at our new house but I am finding it to be not big enough...it's still in the works to be bringing home another Horse with tiller and as you can see I am running out of room in our shed. So may try one of these and see how it holds up to the Oklahoma wind. Snow isn't much of a problem here but the wind may be

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

Before I would go to all kinds of trouble to re-engineer one of those tents, why not build it a bit stronger like this one? truss forhttps://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/yard-buildings-outdoor-storage-accessories/yard-building-accessories/10-gable-ez-build-storage-building-frame-with-8-sidewalls/p-1444448793206-c-9565.htm?tid=-6317892249592687516

 

 You can build that truss for 11 bucks 7 of them make a 10x12 building. Add that little tie joistat the notch in the floor and the entire frame for a 10x 12 is . You could also substitute a treated piece for the floor deck and also add 6 extra floor joists to the floor for 23 bucks and then your floor would nail at 12 inch centers for a super solid feel. Stay away from the kit mini barns--they are a ripoff. No reason that you could not lay out chalk lines and build the end panels and frames inside a garage.

 

 Figure the basic frame at 290 lineal ft. of 2x4 or add 6o extra feet of 2x4 for the stiff floor.  At  $.25 a lineal foot that figures at about 75 dollars and 90 dollars respectively. You will need one sheet of treated plywood at the door and the rest can be exterior grade non-treated. You can get a 3/4 inch treated floor for 120.00 or a half inch for 107.00 if that is haw you want to roll.Add two treated runners 4x6x12 for a total of 50 dollars and then there is your basic frame for under $300 That gives you a whole bunch of money before you get to the kit price for a building like this http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/yard-buildings-outdoor-storage-accessories/yard-building-projects/midwest-manufacturing-e-z-build-10w-x-12d-gable-storage-building/p-1444422314146.htm.

 

 All you need to finish it is exterior sheathing and vinyl siding or just steel siding. Add roof sheathing and shingles for $200.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

Go for an all steel carport 18'x21' installed starts $700 or with sides like mine $1200,Jeff.