Paint quantity for tractor restore

[RedRanger 1,468]

For those of you have gone down this road before....
I'm trying to estimate how much color I need.

Totally stripping, epoxy priming, and spraying automotive single stage Urethane with a gun.  Dupont Nason 8:1:2 mix.
2-3 layers of color will be applied.
How much color do I need for say a suburban and 32" mower deck?  Is a quart enough?

I've got a Lawn Ranger and a 401 that both are getting sprayed along with 3 different mower decks.
Not sure if I should buy 2 quarts or break down and get a gallon?
At $270 a gallon for the color, I hate to buy too much product but I also don't want to run short.

Decisions Decisions.
 

[squonk 41,010]

Are you using HVLP or standard gun? 

Edited November 17, 2015 by squonk

[RedRanger 1,468]

HVLP

[953 nut 55,003]

Considering the fact that you will be painting both sides of the majority of parts and will have numerous small parts I would go for the Gallon, probably a gallon will cost about the same as two and a half quarts and with a gallon you are assured that there won't be any color variation like you could have with multiple quarts. 

[WHX?? 48,739]

Go with the gallon Red you will not like it if you run out, sides... you can always sneek out and shoot a couple of yellow & green things with leftovers, well maybe that would be a waste at that price but maybe the wife's car?!?!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Go with the gallon Red you will not like it if you run out, sides... you can always sneek out and shoot a couple of yellow & green things with leftovers, well maybe that would be a waste at that price but maybe the wife's car?!?!

I don't think she'd appreciate me covering her pearl white Lexus in IH-50 Red.  

Go with the gallon Red you will not like it if you run out, sides... you can always sneek out and shoot a couple of yellow & green things with leftovers, well maybe that would be a waste at that price but maybe the wife's car?!?!

Thanks, that's what I'm figuring.  If I don't buy a gallon I'll need it.  If I do buy it, I'll have extra.
Guess I'll just have to find another horse to restore If I have extra?  Right!??  Maybe some attachments????

The cost for Red paint is just nuts though.

[tractorhogg 612]

Different colorants that go into the paint cost more, red is the highest

[WHX?? 48,739]

Lots  of attachments. ..lots....and a tractor or three to go with  How but some nice RED racing stripes on the Lexus??

[RedRanger 1,468]

International Harvester IH-50

Dupont/Nason code 7410

This is the darker/original IH color.  Almost perfect match to Regal Red.
$266 in that can.  



Sprays beautiful though.





Laid over black Epoxy primer.



 

[953 nut 55,003]

Nice work,    Your primer looks better than a lot of finished paint jobs, Then comes the magic,    oops, couldn't find a spray gun emoticon.      Looks great.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Looks real good.  15 yrs of owning an autobody paint shop but I never go to spray epoxy primer.  But, that was a long time ago!  So I'm curious

Edited November 20, 2015 by DennisThornton
but I never go to

[RedRanger 1,468]

Looks real good.  15 yrs of owning an autobody paint shop and I never spray epoxy primer.

Why is that?

First time for me, and I'm impressed.  Lays down like paint and sticks real good.
72 hour window to topcoat before you have to scuff or seal.

Other than some dust in the primer, it laid out smoother than the paint.  I used their standard formula that was "thinner" than their high build formula which the supplier said was very thick and used on heavy equipment.  Is epoxy not popular in auto shops?

That Nason paint sprays nice too.  I laid 3 coats... a light tack coat, a medium coat, and a wet coat about 20 minutes apart at 65 degrees.  The wet coat burned in and flowed like glass.  No real heat in my shop, just a torpedo.  After the parts dried to the touch, about 45 minutes, I moved them to our attached garage where we have a wall gas fired furnace to bake for a day or two.  Drying at 75 degrees right now.

Looking at the coming weather, I think I'm done shooting red until spring.  

That gives us the winter to strip down and prime the Lawn Ranger.

Edited November 20, 2015 by RedRanger

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Looks real good.  15 yrs of owning an autobody paint shop and I never spray epoxy primer.

Why is that?

First time for me, and I'm impressed.  Lays down like paint and sticks real good.
72 hour window to topcoat before you have to scuff or seal.

Other than some dust in the primer, it laid out smoother than the paint.  I used their standard formula that was "thinner" than their high build formula which the supplier said was very thick and used on heavy equipment.  Is epoxy not popular in auto shops?

That Nason paint sprays nice too.  I laid 3 coats... a light tack coat, a medium coat, and a wet coat about 20 minutes apart at 65 degrees.  The wet coat burned in and flowed like glass.  No real heat in my shop, just a torpedo.  After the parts dried to the touch, about 45 minutes, I moved them to our attached garage where we have a wall gas fired furnace to bake for a day or two.  Drying at 75 degrees right now.

Looking at the coming weather, I think I'm done shooting red until spring.  

That gives us the winter to strip down and prime the Lawn Ranger.

Boy!  I sure didn't type what I meant to say!  I edited that comment somewhat!  My point was that epoxy primer wasn't common, or perhaps just wasn't back in the 80s and I've never needed or bothered to try it since.  Not that I'm against it at ALL!  Just that I basically know nothing about it at ALL!  Looks shiny like a primer and rather than a sandable primer/filler intended to be sanded and to fill scratches, and while I didn't use epoxy primers, I did always prime first and then use a primer/filler to build and fill grinder marks and sand scratches, then a sealer before painting.  

As far as I can tell you did just fine!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Looks real good.  15 yrs of owning an autobody paint shop and I never spray epoxy primer.

Why is that?

First time for me, and I'm impressed.  Lays down like paint and sticks real good.
72 hour window to topcoat before you have to scuff or seal.

Other than some dust in the primer, it laid out smoother than the paint.  I used their standard formula that was "thinner" than their high build formula which the supplier said was very thick and used on heavy equipment.  Is epoxy not popular in auto shops?

That Nason paint sprays nice too.  I laid 3 coats... a light tack coat, a medium coat, and a wet coat about 20 minutes apart at 65 degrees.  The wet coat burned in and flowed like glass.  No real heat in my shop, just a torpedo.  After the parts dried to the touch, about 45 minutes, I moved them to our attached garage where we have a wall gas fired furnace to bake for a day or two.  Drying at 75 degrees right now.

Looking at the coming weather, I think I'm done shooting red until spring.  

That gives us the winter to strip down and prime the Lawn Ranger.

Boy!  I sure didn't type what I meant to say!  I edited that comment somewhat!  My point was that epoxy primer wasn't common, or perhaps just wasn't back in the 80s and I've never needed or bothered to try it since.  Not that I'm against it at ALL!  Just that I basically know nothing about it at ALL!  Looks shiny like a primer and rather than a sandable primer/filler intended to be sanded and to fill scratches, and while I didn't use epoxy primers, I did always prime first and then use a primer/filler to build and fill grinder marks and sand scratches, then a sealer before painting.  

As far as I can tell you did just fine!

Ah.  I thought you meant you wouldn't use it.

Not a professional, but I've done a couple cars for myself. First time using Epoxy primer though.
Sprays nice and dries fast.  Sticks to bare metal great.  Very little over spray.
Supposedly good for preventing rust.
It's ready to topcoat with no scuffing within 2 hours up to 72 hours.  After that you have to scuff it and possibly seal again before topcoat.
Unless I was at bare metal, not sure I'd use it or even need it though.

It's also available in high build for filling imperfections.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Looks real good.  15 yrs of owning an autobody paint shop and I never spray epoxy primer.

Why is that?

First time for me, and I'm impressed.  Lays down like paint and sticks real good.
72 hour window to topcoat before you have to scuff or seal.

Other than some dust in the primer, it laid out smoother than the paint.  I used their standard formula that was "thinner" than their high build formula which the supplier said was very thick and used on heavy equipment.  Is epoxy not popular in auto shops?

That Nason paint sprays nice too.  I laid 3 coats... a light tack coat, a medium coat, and a wet coat about 20 minutes apart at 65 degrees.  The wet coat burned in and flowed like glass.  No real heat in my shop, just a torpedo.  After the parts dried to the touch, about 45 minutes, I moved them to our attached garage where we have a wall gas fired furnace to bake for a day or two.  Drying at 75 degrees right now.

Looking at the coming weather, I think I'm done shooting red until spring.  

That gives us the winter to strip down and prime the Lawn Ranger.

Boy!  I sure didn't type what I meant to say!  I edited that comment somewhat!  My point was that epoxy primer wasn't common, or perhaps just wasn't back in the 80s and I've never needed or bothered to try it since.  Not that I'm against it at ALL!  Just that I basically know nothing about it at ALL!  Looks shiny like a primer and rather than a sandable primer/filler intended to be sanded and to fill scratches, and while I didn't use epoxy primers, I did always prime first and then use a primer/filler to build and fill grinder marks and sand scratches, then a sealer before painting.  

As far as I can tell you did just fine!

Ah.  I thought you meant you wouldn't use it.

Not a professional, but I've done a couple cars for myself. First time using Epoxy primer though.
Sprays nice and dries fast.  Sticks to bare metal great.  Very little over spray.
Supposedly good for preventing rust.
It's ready to topcoat with no scuffing within 2 hours up to 72 hours.  After that you have to scuff it and possibly seal again before topcoat.
Unless I was at bare metal, not sure I'd use it or even need it though.

It's also available in high build for filling imperfections.

I'm sorry... I wrote that so poorly!  What I really meant to say was I've got lots of experience and while none with epoxy primer I'm still all ears, or eyes in this case.  Grasshopper thing perhaps.  Please share your new experiences with an old painter!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Got the deck assembled.  Now I have to wait for grass.  After all it's only December.

 

NOS deck shell, NOS pulleys, NOS gears, new bearings, new seals, new belts, NOS blades, new wheels, some brass bushings, Terry's decals, and stainless hardware.

Can't wait to mow with it in the spring.

 

Here's what I started with.

[slammer302 2,155]

How does the gear driven deck sound with pretty much all NOS parts? I've rebuilt more than a couple now and have had pretty good luck with the exception of the one on my brothers 657 it is still just as loud with all new bearings as it was with out. I've always wondered what a brand new one would of sounded like most all i have came across have a little noise to them.  

[RedRanger 1,468]

9 minutes ago, slammer302 said:

How does the gear driven deck sound with pretty much all NOS parts? I've rebuilt more than a couple now and have had pretty good luck with the exception of the one on my brothers 657 it is still just as loud with all new bearings as it was with out. I've always wondered what a brand new one would of sounded like most all i have came across have a little noise to them.  

Well it's quieter than it was when worn out.  When I brung her home, she shook, wobbled, rattled, and screamed.

Upon disassembly the bearings were all frozen up, bushings shot, belt pulleys chipped, gears chipped, belts stretched, blades bent and chipped.  Somebody had tried to cut off a steel T post with it.  It sounded like a 747 taking off, seriously.  I think a lot of the vibration was chipped gears and sloppy carrier bearings on the cross shaft.

 

I've only run it on the blacktop, so that is obviously louder than grass.  It is louder than belt driven decks, but it's a different sound.  More of a hum.  Runs very smooth, no vibration at all.  Other than the hum, you cannot tell it's spinning.  I would not say that it's "loud", but it does make more noise than a belt driven deck.  Huge difference in the noise level prior and after the rebuild.

 

In the grass I expect it to be much more quiet.  The gear drive compliments the sound of the Kohler quite well IMO.  

My first rear discharge (that doesn't sound right) and first gear drive....looking forward to mowing in the spring.  

[slammer302 2,155]

I pretty much only use the old gear driven decks to mow my yard and i love them my very first wheel horse was a 857 with 36" deck and i mowed my yard with it for years before actually getting it to the horse hobby now i look back and can't believe it mowed as good as it did considering the deck was completely worn out and sounded something horrible but i didn't know any better.   

[RedRanger 1,468]

I'll be interested in seeing what kind of quality this thing cuts with.  I've aquired 4 Wheel Horses in the past 12 months and 3 have gear drive decks.  All 3 will be as new as this one by Christmas.  This 867 with 36" a Lawn Ranger with 32" and a 401 with a 32 square deck.  Mowing with them and comparing them should be fun.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

You have done a beautiful job of restoring that tractor and deck!

[squonk 41,010]

I think the old gear decks cut better than the newer decks. Tough finding a quiet one. Usually the bearings have spun on the cross shaft causing lots of side to side movement and gears banging. I finally found a ratty looking deck that is fairly quiet. I buzz the leaves with it. 

[Bach-Ed 170]

The paint looks great!  Now an important question, it has been a lot of years since I was in automotive paint.  Is it safe to use a cartridge respirator with these paints?  A supplied air breathing device used to be required since the cartridges were not effective with epoxies.  We like our lungs and I don't want anyone to ruin them with poor protection.  Bad lungs will interfere with our WH addictions.

The paint does look great to repeat myself.

[RedRanger 1,468]

23 minutes ago, Bach-Ed said:

The paint looks great!  Now an important question, it has been a lot of years since I was in automotive paint.  Is it safe to use a cartridge respirator with these paints?  A supplied air breathing device used to be required since the cartridges were not effective with epoxies.  We like our lungs and I don't want anyone to ruin them with poor protection.  Bad lungs will interfere with our WH addictions.

The paint does look great to repeat myself.

 

Supplied air device is highly recommended.  I haven't sprung for one due to the $$$, but I had excellent exhaust ventilation and air movement and stayed up wind as best as possible.  I used a cartridge breather.

If I was doing a larger spray out, I'd definitely upgrade to it.