Stuck bolt ideas

[Rollerman 290]

So....I have a Briggs 18HP opposed twin that I'm trying to remove the mufflers so I can install an exhaust manifold that is specific for a tractor the engines to go into (my Steiner).
Three of the bolts (cap screws) came out pretty easy.
The fourth one is fighting me, it's in a spot where I can't get on it with my vice grips very well.
I've tried the normal stuff...
(1) PB Blaster.
(2) Tapping on the bolt with a punch & hammer in hopes I can break free the corrosion.
(3) Heating the bolt.
(4) Heating the block....aluminum, so very lightly.
(5) Various angles with vice grip hoping to spin the bolt out.
(6) Swearing & repeating steps 1 through 5.

Anyone have any tricks they'd like to add for removing a stuck or seized bolt from an alloy engine block?
My next thought is to remove the top of the cap screw, remove the muffler, hope there is enough of the cap screw left behind to get vice grips on & remove without the muffler interfering.
Offending bolt in pics. 
 

[953 nut 55,003]

           Have you considered drilling the bolt out with a drill bit smaller than the pilot hole needed to tap that size bolt (cap screw)? Once the drilling is done you would probably be able to go in with a small awl and pick the threads out. At worst you may have to use a Heli-coil to repair it. I had a '62 Buick Special with a 215 Aluminum V8 and had to do this a few times. Just be sure you are drilling perpendicular to the mounting flange when you do it.

[can whlvr 993]

most times id would weld a nut on top of that bolt but im not sure if id do that on an alloy block,so i agree with helicoil

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,239]

Don't know if these would help, but they got an very stripped turbo bolt off my truck with ease.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

Is that a Allen socket head bolt? Have an impact driver you could try? The type you hit with a hammer.

Garry

[mikekot3 92]

Snapon makes some pneumatic hammer bit for shocking the threads of the bolts that you use with a pneumatic hammer that work pretty well.
https://store.snapon.com/Socket-Adaptors-Socket-Adaptor-Air-Hammer-3-8-sq-dr--P636879.aspx

Also Snap on impact driver works well. It works way better than the craftsman version.https://store.snapon.com/Impact-Drivers-3-8--Driver-Impact-P631487.aspx


 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Kroil, time, more Kroil, more time and what Karl recommended.  Irwin makes a set as well that has saved my but more than once!

If that fails you could heat it red with an oxy/acet.  That has saved me more than Irwin!  If that fails then some finicky drilling to remove all but the bolt threads and none of the threads in the head, the suggested awl and if reasonably successful a tap, if not so successful a helicoil kit.  There are several steps between now and giving up.  Several paths to success!

[Rollerman 290]

Thanks for the ideas.

Richard, I'm hoping I can break it free without getting that aggressive.
Never had any luck drilling steel out of a soft alloy engine block.
Don, if only I could weld as well as I roll.
Karl, going to Sears tomorrow & will give that a look.
Garry...that might be worth a shot, but I've already distorted the Allen socket.

[tbarnhart 240]

Best option is to weld something to it to get a better grip on it. In the welding process, the steel bolt and the aluminum block are at much different temperatures with the small steel bolt getting very hot and the block barely getting hot at all. After allowing it to cool, it will often break free. The best rod I've found to weld out bolts is a 309 stainless. they are designed to weld well to plain carbon steel with very strong weld deposits that are not brittle. If your welding down in a hole, the slag tends to flow to the edges and protect the threads. I've welded out hundreds of bolt since an old welder friend taught me the skills.

[Ed Kennell 37,988]

Last resort...    Search for a local portable EDM tap/bolt removal service.

[WNYPCRepair 1,899]

Someone posted here about using a 12v battery. One lead on ground, the other on the bolt for a few seconds. Not sure if it would work for this, maybe someone who has tried it knows.

Edited November 15, 2015 by WNYPCRepair

[Digger 66 3,478]

  Irwin makes a set as well that has saved my but more than once!

 

I have the same set ^^ and they do work well  however , I doubt there will be enough room to get it on squarely & still turn it .
If i'm seeing that right it looks like an Allen  head that's now nice & round .
If the depression in the center is deep enough , you might try driving a Torx bit that's slightly larger in there .
Warm the surrounding area as best you can & let us know what happens .

If that fails , dust off that angle grinder & remove the head . That way at least the pipe & flange will be out of the way giving you room to work .
Then grind surfaces flush , center-punch & try a lefty drill bit that's smaller . Then either a thread extractor or as posted above , a pick & bottoming tap of the correct size . 

[squonk 41,010]

If you can get an allen bit in there so it grips well, attach it to an impact gun. Heat the area and then hit it with the impact with quick bursts.

[TDF5G 2,069]

Someone posted here about using a 12v battery. One lead on ground, the other on the bolt for a few seconds. Not sure if it would work for this, maybe someone who has tried it knows.

I'd like to see how that works.

Edited November 18, 2015 by TDF5G

[JackC 617]

Metrinch socket, extension, and impact wrench.  The Metrinch sockets and wrenches grab the sides of the heads or nuts rather than the corners.

Best tool set I own.  Watch the video in the lower left corner.

http://www.metrinch.tv/

Edited November 18, 2015 by JackC
Add note re video.

[Ed Kennell 37,988]

Someone posted here about using a 12v battery. One lead on ground, the other on the bolt for a few seconds. Not sure if it would work for this, maybe someone who has tried it knows.

I'd like to see how that works.

I read this post not long ago, but I cannot find it.    I thought it was one of our English members.

[WNYPCRepair 1,899]

Someone posted here about using a 12v battery. One lead on ground, the other on the bolt for a few seconds. Not sure if it would work for this, maybe someone who has tried it knows.

I'd like to see how that works.

 

I read this post not long ago, but I cannot find it.    I thought it was one of our English members.

I couldn't find it either. 

[tunahead72 2,400]

Metrinch socket, extension, and impact wrench.  The Metrinch sockets and wrenches grab the sides of the heads or nuts rather than the corners.

Best tool set I own.  Watch the video in the lower left corner.

http://www.metrinch.tv/

Okay, that's just a cool idea.  And you say they work well, do you use them routinely or just for worn bolts and nuts?

[sorekiwi 761]

Since you are not reusing the exhaust that is currently on the engine, can you cut the muffler off so that you can twist the exhaust flange and hopefully the bolt will turn with the exhaust flange?  or even weld the bolt to the exhaust flange and then turn the whole shabang with a pipe wrench?

[boovuc 1,090]

I do hope you get this bolt out. (Video was great on the Metrinch)
Oh and dead-shorting a Lead-Acid battery is just not a real smart thing to do. (Just saying)!!!!!!!!!!!

[WNYPCRepair 1,899]

I do hope you get this bolt out. (Video was great on the Metrinch)
Oh and dead-shorting a Lead-Acid battery is just not a real smart thing to do. (Just saying)!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Someone here posted it as a solution to rusted bolts, someone else tried it and said it worked great. Maybe Save Old Iron posted it? I can't remember

[Rollerman 290]

Metrinch socket, extension, and impact wrench.  The Metrinch sockets and wrenches grab the sides of the heads or nuts rather than the corners.

Best tool set I own.  Watch the video in the lower left corner.

http://www.metrinch.tv/

It is a round cap head or Allen head bolt.
No sides or corners to grip.

 

Since you are not reusing the exhaust that is currently on the engine, can you cut the muffler off so that you can twist the exhaust flange and hopefully the bolt will turn with the exhaust flange?  or even weld the bolt to the exhaust flange and then turn the whole shabang with a pipe wrench?

Nonsense....I plan on saving the muffler, putting it in a box somewhere till I get tired of looking at it, throw it out....only to need it a week later.
Serious though, I don't believe I would have room to use a pipe wrench.

The engine has been on the back burner while I work on the loader.
I've been hitting it with PB Blaster in the mean time & plan on trying an oversized Torx or Allen bit in a dead plow impact wrench.
If that fails I'll grInd the head off, remove the muffler & get serious.

[WNYPCRepair 1,899]

Weld an allen wrench into the bolt?
 

[Brian01 481]

I agree, tac an alen wrench to it,  n use a pair of pliers to loosen.

Or  stick a long punch, screw driver or w/e you can on the bolt  and give it some whacks with a hammer....easiest way to break it loose.

[ACman 7,618]

Growing up in a AC dealership we used all those ideas with success some not. Left hand drill bit for sure. A lot of times the bit will grab and the bolt comes out with it if you go that route. Lately my son has been using a Speedout set with the drill on one end and the extractor on the other . Think I got it a Home Chepoe and they have worked great. Especially with a bolt our screw where the drill will already self center. Try those other ideas first because if you break a drill or tap off you'll really be !!?&# . You know what I'm saying. Also like the idea of cutting the flang loose for more room , if the tubing still has enough meat on it where you weld it back together .

Edited November 19, 2015 by ACman
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