Front Wheel Hub Conversion on 5xi

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

Has anyone done the hub conversion to the front wheels on a 5xi that Rexemouse did recently to his 520H?

Here are the photos that were posted for the 520H conversion.  The 5xi axle spindles look very similar at 1" OD, but it's a drag that that they only have a washer and a cotter pin.  The 520H axle has a threaded end for a castle nut.  I've been thinking about this upgrade for. Awhile now, and thought I'd ask to see if someone else was able to make these tapered bearing hubs work on their 5xi.









Here is a 5xi front axle spindle for reference:



 

Edited November 14, 2015 by Snowmobileaddict
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[roadapples 6,983]

All I know about an xi is what I`ve seen on here, but if your spindle is long enough you would adjust with washers of different thickness. With shim washers you can adjust as fine as with a castle nut. Good luck, I really like this upgrade. You will probably need a sleeve-collar for the inner seal. Keep us informed.

[953 nut 57,454]

Would a 520 Spindle fit the 5xi axle? If not, you could drill and tap the end of the spindle and use a bolt like the older (60s)  did.

[tractorhogg 612]

My tube frame Bolens tractors use a spindle with a hole but a locking collar fits over it and a bolt/pin goes through both, very solid. 

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

My tube frame Bolens tractors use a spindle with a hole but a locking collar fits over it and a bolt/pin goes through both, very solid. 

I am seriously contemplating doing this to get 18x8.50-8 tires on the front. They need a 7" wide rim so a BMI Kart hub should work. A trailer hub is too long as the spindle is 4" long and the trailer hub is about 4 1/4 to 4 1/2" long.

[tractorhogg 612]

My tube frame Bolens tractors use a spindle with a hole but a locking collar fits over it and a bolt/pin goes through both, very solid. 

I am seriously contemplating doing this to get 18x8.50-8 tires on the front. They need a 7" wide rim so a BMI Kart hub should work. A trailer hub is too long as the spindle is 4" long and the trailer hub is about 4 1/4 to 4 1/2" long.

You are right 4-1/4 to 4-1/2 is about the shortest trailer hub. The BMI hub from billet aluminum is just under 2 inches so you will need a collar on the inside or on the outside, or one on both, that's what I did. I used a locking collar on either side of the hub worked perfectly. Here's the link to the BMI hub, BTW the hub IS directional in that the wheel will only fit on one way, the taper side of the hub center goes inward and make sure your centers will fit. Don't forget to state your bearing preference. If you need or want caps for the outside, I have a few extra black rubber ones that are similar to CASE wheel caps.
http://www.bmikarts.com/4-x-4-Billet-Aluminum-Idler-Hub-34-or-1-ID-Bearing_p_1644.html

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

I guess l'll have to check on if a 520h spindle could be adapted to the 5xi.

My interest in the upgrade is to get tapered bearing hubs upfront.  The bmi hubs are nice but they still have regular ball bearings I think.

[tractorhogg 612]

I guess l'll have to check on if a 520h spindle could be adapted to the 5xi.

My interest in the upgrade is to get tapered bearing hubs upfront.  The bmi hubs are nice but they still have regular ball bearings I think.

They are heavy duty 1-5/8" bearing, rated much higher than stock, they are made for sand rails and such. If you do a spindle swap I would go to a trailer shop and have them make the spindles and buy the matching hubs.

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

If you want the tapered bearing, I think that you will need to cut and weld a a new axle on to the 5xi spindle. The geometry of the two spindles is different, besides they use two different retention methods. It may be possible to install a complete 520-H swept axle and then modify the steering rods.

[tractorhogg 612]

If you want the tapered bearing, I think that you will need to cut and weld a a new axle on to the 5xi spindle. The geometry of the two spindles is different, besides they use two different retention methods. It may be possible to install a complete 520-H swept axle and then modify the steering rods.

I agree, taking the spindle off and welding a 1"x 5"  threaded stub shaft might be the way to go. Those stub shafts aren't expensive and then neither will be the hub. I use the billet aluminum on mine because of the age and collector value of my tractors I do not want to permanently change the originals. If you feel this way as well you might buy a spare set of spindles to work with. 

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

I guess l'll have to check on if a 520h spindle could be adapted to the 5xi.

My interest in the upgrade is to get tapered bearing hubs upfront.  The bmi hubs are nice but they still have regular ball bearings I think.

They are heavy duty 1-5/8" bearing, rated much higher than stock, they are made for sand rails and such. If you do a spindle swap I would go to a trailer shop and have them make the spindles and buy the matching hubs.

OK
I didn't know that the BMI hub bearings are a heavier duty variety of bearing.

How are the Ball Bearings in the BMI hubs secured?  I can't tell from the website photos.  Circlip? 

They aren't just a press-fit are they?  That would seem odd to me.

Thanks,

Andy

Edited November 15, 2015 by Snowmobileaddict

[tractorhogg 612]

I guess l'll have to check on if a 520h spindle could be adapted to the 5xi.

My interest in the upgrade is to get tapered bearing hubs upfront.  The bmi hubs are nice but they still have regular ball bearings I think.

They are heavy duty 1-5/8" bearing, rated much higher than stock, they are made for sand rails and such. If you do a spindle swap I would go to a trailer shop and have them make the spindles and buy the matching hubs.

OK
I didn't know that the BMI hub bearings are a heavier duty variety of bearing.

How are the Ball Bearings in the BMI hubs secured?  I can't tell from the website photos.  Circlip? 

They aren't just a press-fit are they?  That would seem odd to me.

Thanks,

Andy

They are pressed into a recess in the hub, but they are 2" OD precision sealed bearings versus the crummy 1-3/8" or 1-/58" OD old bearings. They are load rated at 2260 lbs dynamic force or 1350 lbs static force which is over double the rating of the old bearing. This bearing will be adequate for anything other than a loader. That said, if money was no object I would weld on new spindle ends. The BMI hubs will set you back 84.00 delivered, another 6 dollars for collars to space the hub, so under 100.00, the weld on spindle and hub set with bearings will not run you that much more, maybe another 50.00, but if you have a lot more time and labor to remove, cut, and weld the spindles

[Don1977 604]

If money isn't an object you can put 3500# 5 lug hubs on. The inside bearing is 1 3/8" ID. You'll need some one with a lathe to drill out for the old existing spindle. I did this on a C-120. I sawed 2" off the back of the new trailer spindle and drilled it out to fit over the original axle. I also  drilled a 1/2 hole between the bearing services of the trailer spindle.  I cut the original axles off to around 3" slid on the trailer spindles and welded the back side and also the hole to the original axle. I did this in 1989 I had to tighten the nut on one side last year that the only thing I've done to them.





 

[DennisThornton 4,771]

If money isn't an object you can put 3500# 5 lug hubs on. The inside bearing is 1 3/8" ID. You'll need some one with a lathe to drill out for the old existing spindle. I did this on a C-120. I sawed 2" off the back of the new trailer spindle and drilled it out to fit over the original axle. I also  drilled a 1/2 hole between the bearing services of the trailer spindle.  I cut the original axles off to around 3" slid on the trailer spindles and welded the back side and also the hole to the original axle. I did this in 1989 I had to tighten the nut on one side last year that the only thing I've done to them.





 

Wow!  That's heavy duty!  What are you using that tractor for?

[Don1977 604]

If money isn't an object you can put 3500# 5 lug hubs on. The inside bearing is 1 3/8" ID. You'll need some one with a lathe to drill out for the old existing spindle. I did this on a C-120. I sawed 2" off the back of the new trailer spindle and drilled it out to fit over the original axle. I also  drilled a 1/2 hole between the bearing services of the trailer spindle.  I cut the original axles off to around 3" slid on the trailer spindles and welded the back side and also the hole to the original axle. I did this in 1989 I had to tighten the nut on one side last year that the only thing I've done to them.





 

Wow!  That's heavy duty!  What are you using that tractor for?

I had a front wheel that wouldn't hold the bearing and it cut up my spindle. I was have trouble with the front tires. Had to replace every thing on that side so I just went with the trailer spindles, hubs and 6 ply rated tires and wheels.  It steers a lot easier then before.

[DennisThornton 4,771]

If money isn't an object you can put 3500# 5 lug hubs on. The inside bearing is 1 3/8" ID. You'll need some one with a lathe to drill out for the old existing spindle. I did this on a C-120. I sawed 2" off the back of the new trailer spindle and drilled it out to fit over the original axle. I also  drilled a 1/2 hole between the bearing services of the trailer spindle.  I cut the original axles off to around 3" slid on the trailer spindles and welded the back side and also the hole to the original axle. I did this in 1989 I had to tighten the nut on one side last year that the only thing I've done to them.





 

Wow!  That's heavy duty!  What are you using that tractor for?

I had a front wheel that wouldn't hold the bearing and it cut up my spindle. I was have trouble with the front tires. Had to replace every thing on that side so I just went with the trailer spindles, hubs and 6 ply rated tires and wheels.  It steers a lot easier then before.

And it "steers a lot easier"!  Wow!  Why do you think?  I'm thinking those 6 plies could be stiffer, maybe the wheels roll more easily, but I wouldn't have guessed easier steering.

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

Awesome mod.

 

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

There was a change in the later owners manual for the 5xi after 1998. From 1999 and beyond it says to run the front tires at 20 psi which will help the steering. That will help the standard two-ply tire and will be even better on the 4-ply and 6-ply tires

[tractorhogg 612]

The friction on tapered bearing run in hubs is greatly reduced compared wheel bearings that most tractors come with as stock. A friend of mine has a Bolens Duratrac, and the bearing gave out do to stress from weight and friction then fusing into the spindle. Those stock bearings are about the same as the battery in a new car, good for 12 months. I go for 5.70-8 tires for turf as they are over 2 inches taller and only 5.70 wide versus 6.50 or 8.50 this really makes the steering seem like power assist, but if your lawn is swamping you need the big wide airplane tires, still, real bearings and hubs really help.