Ready for snow, one issue, help?

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

Yes Paul, they do look like the tires on my '91   classic.

[can whlvr 993]

same as my 312-h,1990

[diamondred 63]

I would have concerns about the weight on the back putting extreme pressure on the bottom side of the transaxle.
 

...also be a good idea to remove the arm that lifts the mower deck, But really ... an eight of an inch? you can change that by leaning one way or the other on the tractor, besides thats what the skid pads are for.
 

[diamondred 63]

Check out my post (snowblower lift helper)

[diamondred 63]

Oh, by the way, the flag in the upper hole gives the best mechanical advantage for lifting the weight.
 

[Bigpat5123 27]

Thanks for the input diamond. I am not concerned with the 150 lbs attached to the rear hitch. I have had more tongue weight towing a trailer with this tractor. Isn't that what a hitch is meant for?

[diamondred 63]

Thanks for the input diamond. I am not concerned with the 150 lbs attached to the rear hitch. I have had more tongue weight towing a trailer with this tractor. Isn't that what a hitch is meant for?

No. Why this hitch is designed like this, I have no idea. If you take a look at the bottom part of the hitch, it pushes up against the transaxle case, and it teeter-totters on the 3/4" pin. It looks like the center of your weight is about 16" from the pin. that puts about 4 times the amount to the bottom of the transaxle case. Ideally... these hitches where designed to pull a roller, yard cart,etc. Just trying to help, it's rough changing a transaxle in mid winter.... I know.  

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

Gotta agree with Red on this one Pat.   I have also towed trailers with heavy tongue weights, but use a sleeve hitch that is supported by the cable and also bolted to the drawbar hitch. 
I am also concerned about the affect on the bottom of the case.  Hopefully the drawbar would bend before it would crack the case.
I would feel much better if support struts were added up to the seat support plates.   This would stop any swaying of that cantilevered weight that may cause  impact loading on the case.  You could also add a plate between the case and the drawbar to spread out the load on the case.      

On my C-120 that I use the drawbar to pull my firewood trailer that is so balanced that starting and stopping  actually caused the hitch to rock and constantly bang the  bottom of the axle case.
To prevent this banging on the bottom of the case, I wedged two lead rings in the hitch uprights as shown.

 

[Bigpat5123 27]

I see what you guys are saying but doesn't the factor hitch rest on the bottom of the case? Also what you cant see in the pictures is the rack is bolted to the hitch as well. I know that doesn't alleviate all the pressure on the case but definitely helps.  Where the pin that hold the hitch on the case is solid cast iron anyway, no?

[Bigpat5123 27]

The rack that I made only goes bout 1/4" under the hitch pin. Are you saying that the stop tab on the hitch itself is going to be a problem?

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

The weak point is the portion of the transaxle casting that the pin slides in. They crack and break. I'd suggest fabricating and running a couple of stabilizers to the top of the axle casting using the bolts for the rear Attach-A-Matic. That way another portion of the transaxle can bear some of the weight.


 

[diamondred 63]

The weak point is the portion of the transaxle casting that the pin slides in. They crack and break. I'd suggest fabricating and running a couple of stabilizers to the top of the axle casting using the bolts for the rear Attach-A-Matic. That way another portion of the transaxle can bear some of the weight.


 

Like this: https://youtu.be/m9z1a5ppVmA

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Looking good, but like others have mentioned, its not the amount of weight but how its leveraged off the back. One good bump or jolt and you might break the casting off at the hitch pin. 

Take a look at Scott's hitch design for a good idea how to help support the weight: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44429-custom-heavy-duty-2-hitch/

He has it bolt to the top of the axle as well as stabilize off the hitch pin. 

[tommyg 152]

I'd be curious to know if the snowblower were removed, does the tractor lift off the ground in the front! It's not the 150 lbs that would concern me but rather the distance it is offset from axle center.

[Bigpat5123 27]

Thanks guys for all the feedback. I have had yard trailers and a trailer with a leaf sucker(5hp motor and exhaust blower with frame) mounted to the trailer tongue. I have stood on the hitch with and without trailers and never had any issues with the hitch. I am 200+ lbs. I know I have had this type of load on the hitch before with no issues. Maybe I am just lucky but I nor my dad who's the owner of this gem thinks something bad will happen with this setup.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

You will probably be fine, and I also understand that you are unlikely to change your mind (and that's OK! ), but I just have to put some physics in here for anyone looking at this thread in the future. 

If you stand on the hitch (lets assume the hitch is 6" long from the hitch pin to the hole, and extends 5" under the transmission, I dont know what the actual measurements are) you are putting a pressure of about 240lbs on the bottom of the transmission (not calculating forces on the pin, too much work, but expect it close). If you put 150lbs out free hanging 24" from that hitch pin you are exerting a pressure of 960lbs on the transmission bottom. Yours will not be quite that high since your 150lbs is distributed along the length of the 24", but it will be close. Its like using a giant breaker bar on a frozen bolt.

Also keep in mind that trailers aren't valid comparisons as they have their own tires on the ground, so they are putting their tongue weight right at the hitch (the same as the first example I gave you of you standing on it)

And that doesnt include the possibility of bouncing... you would be looking that thousands of lbs of force. 

[Bigpat5123 27]

You are right on point BMS. I definitely know what you are saying and respect everyone's reply's to my topic. I will be using this on my paved driveway so there will not be much cause for the hitch to bounce. We will see how it goes and hopefully I won't be needing help on repairs in January!

[diamondred 63]

You will probably be fine, and I also understand that you are unlikely to change your mind (and that's OK! ), but I just have to put some physics in here for anyone looking at this thread in the future. 

If you stand on the hitch (lets assume the hitch is 6" long from the hitch pin to the hole, and extends 5" under the transmission, I dont know what the actual measurements are) you are putting a pressure of about 240lbs on the bottom of the transmission (not calculating forces on the pin, too much work, but expect it close). If you put 150lbs out free hanging 24" from that hitch pin you are exerting a pressure of 960lbs on the transmission bottom. Yours will not be quite that high since your 150lbs is distributed along the length of the 24", but it will be close. Its like using a giant breaker bar on a frozen bolt.

Also keep in mind that trailers aren't valid comparisons as they have their own tires on the ground, so they are putting their tongue weight right at the hitch (the same as the first example I gave you of you standing on it)

And that doesnt include the possibility of bouncing... you would be looking that thousands of lbs of force. 

Scenario #2.... Just my two cents, his weight  distribution would be at the center of gravity of the 150 lbs, plus the center of gravity of the carrier......ok, I'm done. He did a nice job building the carrier, will definitely help. 

[dvzen 0]

On 11/4/2015, 7:25:02, ekennell said:

One other thought....do you have the flag pin in the correct hole in the rock shaft?

In mine I have three holes, I just found that out with a broken experience. Needs to go into the third hole from the bottom. Good luck.

[jeff lary 171]

I built  a hitch/ frame that I sit a bucket of old chain in to give me some extra traction in the winter. I removed the hitch and the hitch pin. I built a squareish ? shallow box and with two plates that extend forward I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in each one and put a like 6-7 inch x 3/4 bolt through them and the hitch cast ear? Then I ran two longer pieces of bar stock in under the axel and welded a cross rod in between them. Now with the hitch bolt/pin in place I tilt the cross rod up and into the attach-a-matic that I use when I have the tiller on during the summer. Now I lift the pail of chain into the shallow box frame and voila done .I will try to get you a photo some time but it is a very simple set up. I drew the whole thing up on a match book cover and took it to work where I fabed up the unit  very easy to build been using it since 1997..

Edited December 14, 2016 by jeff lary
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