drawbar pin stuck

[mrc 875]

hi men,  going thru a  wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in.  UH-OH!  boy was that pin stuck.  penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it.  in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case.  then i used  my  ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off.  it managed to push it out. what a relief!  good tools are priceless.  i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those  buggers.  used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in.  best regards to all    mike in mass.

[KC9KAS 4,744]

Thanks for another idea to remove these @#$!%#@ pins!

[woodchuckfarmer 333]

A ball joint press dose wonders on the pins. Put a SS pin back in , then no more problems.

[Pullstart 64,593]

I made sure to wire brush the inside of the trans hole too when I put mine back together.  Luckily a couple ball peen hammers and some map gas did the trick to get mine loose.  Reminds me I still need oxygen and argon tanks filled!

[cleat 7,030]

I had a C160 that I sold to my neighbor a couple years ago that had a grease fitting on the trans where that pin goes through.

That pin just slid out.

Cleat 

[Xjchief 128]

another good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab  a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right  and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.

[JackC 617]

The anti-sieze is a good thing.  

Your experience is a good reminder for all of us to lube everything as part of routine maintenance understanding that these machines were made to be around for a very long time.

[DougC 2,642]

The anti-sieze is a good thing.  

Your experience is a good reminder for all of us to lube everything as part of routine maintenance understanding that these machines were made to be around for a very long time.

Yes I agree completely. I never install  spark plugs or oxygen sensors without using anti-sieze compound on the threads.  For that matter anything exposed to the elements you may ever want to remove in the future..............

[Pullstart 64,593]

The big three should get the hint that anything sold in the rust belt should have anti-seize pre-applied.  I would love them, as would so many other backyard warriors!

[953 nut 57,980]

The big three should get the hint that anything sold in the rust belt should have anti-seize pre-applied.  I would love them, as would so many other backyard warriors!

They won't do that, it might cost them money!

[Tankman 3,520]

A ball joint press dose wonders on the pins. Put a SS pin back in , then no more problems.

Always use Never-Seez too! When rebuilding I try to use all SS hardware and Never-Seez.  http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/never-seez

Made a few mower decks, under the Rustoleum Regal Red were all 316 SS.

[cleat 7,030]

Wow, I would love to have a 316 deck. That thing would last forever from a rust standpoint.

[cleat 7,030]

Wow, I would love to have a 316 deck. That thing would last forever from a rust standpoint.

Wow, I would love to have a 316 deck. That thing would last forever from a rust standpoint.

Wow, I would love to have a 316 deck. That thing would last forever from a rust standpoint.

[Tankman 3,520]

Wow, I would love to have a 316 deck. That thing would last forever from a rust standpoint.

I was a prototype sheet metal mechanic (70's), had carte blanche to build anything I wanted. Had aluminum, CRS (cold rolled steel) but most of the chemical tanks** I worked with were 316 SS. I used heavier gauge 316 stainless steel mostly everywhere.

I had a couple of finished decks on my trailer, painted. Dealer loved the work but was confused when I said, "Here, try this magnet on 'em."   Wouldn't stick of course.

PS. **That's why I'm called Tank or Tankman.

Edited November 5, 2015 by Tankman

[ronhatch 406]

I always wondered why some of the better garden tractor manufacturer didn't use SS on their decks.
 

[Tankman 3,520]

I always wondered why some of the better garden tractor manufacturer didn't use SS on their decks.
 

$$$$ That's why.

We used the SS for chemical resistance although we used more materials too; i.e.: titanium and hastelloy.

Always keep some brass drift pins in the tool box for tappin' out stuck pins.

[cleat 7,030]

We use a lot of 316 SS, 304 SS at work and the more highly corrosive areas get Hastelloy 276 or Inconel.

Great stuff but extremely pricey. A deck made of Hastelloy would last forever. Making it would be a pain, that stuff is hard to cut and machine.

Cleat

[Tankman 3,520]

Made a lot of "home jobs" Cleat. Usually 316 SS for my Stallions, they love it!

Decks I used 12 ga or 10 ga 316L, lots of 1/4" SS flatbar for reinforcement when required or when I felt like it.

Made a few snow blades with mounts. Never any rust. Of course SS hardware and still used Never-Seez on all threads. Edited November 5, 2015 by Tankman

[cleat 7,030]

Good to use Never-seize on SS. SS loves to gall and Never-seize will help prevent that.

Cleat

[tunahead72 2,518]

Tankman, you're a tease, where's the SS photos?

[DennisThornton 4,771]

The anti-sieze is a good thing.  

Your experience is a good reminder for all of us to lube everything as part of routine maintenance understanding that these machines were made to be around for a very long time.

Yes I agree completely. I never install  spark plugs or oxygen sensors without using anti-sieze compound on the threads.  For that matter anything exposed to the elements you may ever want to remove in the future..............

Love anti-seize and everything I think might need to be removed sometime, by myself or others!