Snowmobileaddict 403 #226 Posted February 24, 2016 13 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said: I was all set for a road trip to buy a tractor with loader. Saw an ad on CL for one of these:http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/4/1/3416-john-deere-3203.html If you look at the attachments tab, it has the info on the loader included. I found it, looked up the info, went back to get the contact info and it had been deleted. I'm pretty sure it is because he left a zero off. It was listed for $2500 Maybe it was supposed to be $12,500, or $25,000, but $2500 was definitely a mistake. Could have been a scammer ad that got flagged too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #227 Posted February 27, 2016 On February 22, 2016 at 1:12 PM, Vinylguy said: Thanks Andy but it is just a dot on the I. Your fabrication work was the real magic. sometimes they show an item available when it is not. If it comes scan it at 300 DPI as a pdf file. Thanks Terry Got it today, PM me your email address. I got the one that apparently goes under the cover too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #228 Posted February 27, 2016 Beautiful... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #229 Posted February 28, 2016 On February 24, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Snowmobileaddict said: Could have been a scammer ad that got flagged too. OK, I really don't understand how this scam works. I just found two more tractors with loaders at ridiculous prices. They looked like the JD I mentioned, same weird capital letters mixed throughout, etc. I don't understand how they plan to get my money, unless it is an armed robbery when I show up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,313 #230 Posted February 28, 2016 I would assume they will ask for some money down to hold it then when you get there you will not find anybody. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #231 Posted February 28, 2016 17 minutes ago, cleat said: I would assume they will ask for some money down to hold it then when you get there you will not find anybody. Really? I can't imagine anyone would give money to someone on CL they didn't know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,313 #232 Posted February 28, 2016 Most wouldn't but they are likely counting on a few dumb ones. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #233 Posted February 28, 2016 @Snowmobileaddict A couple of questions, if you don't mind. I'm trying to visualize the submount. I would have sworn I downloaded a dimensioned drawing of your subframe, but I can't find it, and when I went back and downloaded it today, there are dimension arrows, but no measurements. I'm so confused. Did you ever upload one with dimensions? Anyway, I took my dozer blade off and was just doing some looking. If I put a straight edge from the bottom of my rear axle, to the bottom of the mid Tach-o-Matic, the straightedge is sloping down hill. If I drop it an inch or so, which is what yours looks like, it gets worse. To be level, it looks like I need to be 1" to 1 1/2" below the rear axle to be level with the bottom of the middle mount. Is the top of the subframe tight against the bottom of the axle in this picture? Roughly what is the distance between the top of the square (rectangular?) tubing and the center of the round stock in the Tach-o-Matic? And is the rectangular tubing roughly level to the ground? Are the vertical uprights plumb, or do they lean forward? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #234 Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Brian, i just emailed you the dimensions you're looking for. Before I got going on my build I asked the forum for dimensions help in this thread: Doc sent me the dimensions and they worked out great. A=4 1/2B=5 1/8C=12 7/8 (measured to the cross bar) The gusset between the longitudinal frame and the cross bar is 1/4 inch thk. There is one on either side (front and back) of the crossbar (total of 4)D=8 3/16E=2 1/2 Other notes.... The longitudinal subframe member s are level with the ground, the rest flat against the bottoms of the rear axles and the uprights are plumb to ground. Edited July 13, 2017 by Snowmobileaddict 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #235 Posted February 28, 2016 1 hour ago, Snowmobileaddict said: Brian, i just emailed you the dimensions you're looking for. Before I got going on my build I asked the forum for dimensions help in this thread: Doc sent me the dimensions and they worked out great. A=4 1/2B=5 1/8C=12 7/8 (measured to the cross bar) The gusset between the longitudinal frame and the cross bar is 1/4 inch thk. There is one on either side (front and back) of the crossbar (total of 4)D=8 3/16E=2 1/2 Other notes.... The longitudinal subframe member s are level with the ground, the rest flat against the bottoms of the rear axles and the uprights are plumb to ground. Thank you so much, that is exactly the measurements I needed. I also checked my garage floor, it slopes about 3/4" in 4 feet too, so that added to the issue. Thank you to Doc, also. I think I am leaning toward just building my own. I will have to build the subframe no matter what, the Simplicity will also need the pump and valve, so I think it would actually be more expensive to modify the Simplicity than to just build one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #236 Posted March 2, 2016 On January 3, 2016 at 0:03 AM, Snowmobileaddict said: The bucket looks really nice. CTC also included 2 sets of mounting ears. 1 set is blank and the other is drilled for 3/4" pins the same as they sell with their loaders. I'll have to fool around with the predrilled set. They just might work and would save me the trouble of drilling my own. I did some bucket comparison, and although the 48" CTC bucket is 8" wider, it's depth and height are less than the Kwikway by a bit. From my figures, the kwikway has an appx 7.5 cubic ft capacity and the CTC is 7.28 cubic ft. Close enough for me. I kind of like having the bucket a bit wider than the front axle track. I just emailed them to see if they will do the same and ship it to Buffalo for me. I got a quote on the steel to build a loader today. The steel for the bucket is not bad at all, but I can't bend it. I know someone here mentioned cutting part way through with a grinder and bending it, then welding the seams, but I would rather have it bent on a brake. The steel for the bucket (3/16") is about $76, but the shop wanted $250 to bend it, cut the end caps and weld it. If I can get one built and shipped for that, I would probably just do that. The steel for the entire loader came to just over $600, but there will be some other odds and ends. I am leaning toward building my own loader at this point Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #237 Posted March 2, 2016 18 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: I just emailed them to see if they will do the same and ship it to Buffalo for me. I got a quote on the steel to build a loader today. The steel for the bucket is not bad at all, but I can't bend it. I know someone here mentioned cutting part way through with a grinder and bending it, then welding the seams, but I would rather have it bent on a brake. The steel for the bucket (3/16") is about $76, but the shop wanted $250 to bend it, cut the end caps and weld it. If I can get one built and shipped for that, I would probably just do that. The steel for the entire loader came to just over $600, but there will be some other odds and ends. I am leaning toward building my own loader at this point The steel is the affordable part. It's the hydraulics that get expensive really fast for quality components. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #238 Posted March 2, 2016 3/16" steel would make for a really heavy bucket. That might be what PF specs in their plans, but in my opinion its likely needlessly overkill. CTC's buckets and brackets are made from 10 gauge steel. From what I could tell, its the same gauge as the steel used in the Kwik-Way bucket. The CTC also has a 1/2" thick hardened steel cutting edge. Its a about 105 pounds ready to mount. They do a fine job putting it together and were willing to sell me the mounting ears loose so I could weld them on myself. Rod Zastrow is the owner at CTC and was super responsive to work with. He said that they solely use FedEx Freight for shipping. Here is the shipping estimator for their entire loader package on a pallet: http://www.compacttractorandcomponents.com/Shipping%20map.htm The bucket alone would obviously weight and cost less. I'd guess it would be about $140-155 to ship to Buffalo. For comparison purposes, if you want any other steel thicknesses for the parts Kwik-way used in their loaders, just let me know, I have a feeling that PF might have spec'd some extra heavy wall steel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #239 Posted March 2, 2016 2 hours ago, 82Caddy said: The steel is the affordable part. It's the hydraulics that get expensive really fast for quality components. Yeah, The pump, cylinders and control is about $840, plus hoses, fittings, etc. 2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said: 3/16" steel would make for a really heavy bucket. That might be what PF specs in their plans, but in my opinion its likely needlessly overkill. CTC's buckets and brackets are made from 10 gauge steel. From what I could tell, its the same gauge as the steel used in the Kwik-Way bucket. The CTC also has a 1/2" thick hardened steel cutting edge. Its a about 105 pounds ready to mount. They do a fine job putting it together and were willing to sell me the mounting ears loose so I could weld them on myself. Rod Zastrow is the owner at CTC and was super responsive to work with. He said that they solely use FedEx Freight for shipping. Here is the shipping estimator for their entire loader package on a pallet: http://www.compacttractorandcomponents.com/Shipping%20map.htm The bucket alone would obviously weight and cost less. I'd guess it would be about $140-155 to ship to Buffalo. For comparison purposes, if you want any other steel thicknesses for the parts Kwik-way used in their loaders, just let me know, I have a feeling that PF might have spec'd some extra heavy wall steel. Thanks, I am sure I will have questions. I was trying to estimate the uprights size, they look like 3 x 5, but that isn't available, so I am looking at 3 x 4 for those. And they did actually quote 1/8" in the plans, but I beefed it up a sixteenth after seeing some bent up buckets. 1/8" is probably enough, especially with the extra bent lip at the top to add strength Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #240 Posted March 2, 2016 Just heard back from Rod at CTC. Shipping is $164, so a total of $410 vs $325 to have it built locally. Andy, what are the dimensions of your bucket. I know it is 4' wide. The PF plans seem bigger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #241 Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) The CTC bucket is 16" deep from back of the bucket to the tip of the cutting edge. For or the height of the bucket at the back side of it: 18" I see that the plan sheet you scanned shows the bucket bent at 90 degrees at the bottom inside corner. I would say you would be better served by bending that at an angle between 70 and 80 degrees otherwise you'll limit the amount of negative rollback of the bucket, especially when the bucket is low to the ground. This makes it hard to keep material from spilling out of the bucket when carrying a load low to the ground. Here is the built in angle of the CTC bucket. -13 degrees from 90 so 77 degrees. This is approximately the same as the factory kwikway bucket. Edited July 13, 2017 by Snowmobileaddict 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #242 Posted March 3, 2016 24 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said: I would say you would be better served by bending that at an angle between 70 and 80 degrees otherwise you'll limit the amount of negative rollback of the bucket, especially when the bucket is low to the ground. This makes it hard to keep material from spilling out of the bucket when carrying a load low to the ground. Good point, and I don't want to be driving around with it up high. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #243 Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Here's a photo of a loader that was built from the PF plans. I think I found this a while back on wfmachines.com. You can see that if the bottom inside bend was made at less than 90, the loader would be able to roll the bucket back farther when low to the ground. Obviously, carrying any load lower to the ground on these garden tractor FELs makes for a better operator experience (read more stable). The thread located at this link is also very informative for anyone embarking on an FEL build. I spent a lot of time on it before I started my limited build. I don't think you need to register on the forum to view of the photos. But if you do need to register, its worth it. Great tips and photos http://www.mytractorforum.com/119-home-made-tractors-implements-accessories/175389-jd425-fel-build-input-requested.html The builder basically mocked up an entire wood pattern to cut with his plasma cutter (traced/scribed the perimeter of the wood patterns) before going to steel and fabricating it. Edited July 13, 2017 by Snowmobileaddict 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #244 Posted March 3, 2016 15 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said: Here's a photo of a loader that was built from the PF plans. I think I found this a while back on wfmachines.com. You can see that if the bottom inside bend was made at less than 90, the loader would be able to roll the bucket back farther when low to the ground. Obviously, carrying any load lower to the ground on these garden tractor FELs makes for a more a better operator experience (read more stable). Yeah, it made sense as soon as you said it. I will make that change, unless I end up buying a bucket Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #245 Posted March 4, 2016 Started work on the subframe today. My truck is in the shop, and I need steel, so I may reach a stopping point soon, but I hope to at least get the subframe finished to the point where I am ready to weld on the uprights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #246 Posted March 4, 2016 1 hour ago, WNYPCRepair said: Started work on the subframe today. My truck is in the shop, and I need steel, so I may reach a stopping point soon, but I hope to at least get the subframe finished to the point where I am ready to weld on the uprights. The build is on! awesome. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #247 Posted March 4, 2016 1 minute ago, Snowmobileaddict said: The build is on! awesome. Do you mind giving me measurements on the uprights that the boom arms attach to? I'm hoping to run to the steel store today, otherwise it will be Monday before I can go Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #248 Posted March 4, 2016 40 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: Do you mind giving me measurements on the uprights that the boom arms attach to? I'm hoping to run to the steel store today, otherwise it will be Monday before I can go I'm working in the office today and I won't be home for a couple more hours. I can measure when I get home, though your supplier will likely be closed by then. I'm nearly 100% sure that the cross-section of the uprights is 3" x 5" with 1/8" wall ***I know for a fact that the 3" dimension is accurate. I had that in my 129mb file directory for all things related to my loader project. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,921 #249 Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said: I'm working in the office today and I won't be home for a couple more hours. I can measure when I get home, though your supplier will likely be closed by then. I'm nearly 100% sure that the cross-section of the uprights is 3" x 5" with 1/8" wall ***I know for a fact that the 3" dimension is accurate. I had that in my 129mb file directory for all things related to my loader project. Thanks, that is what I had guessed, looking at the measurements for the mounting shoe. I ordered 6' they didn't have it, or even anything close at the steel store, so I will be stopped when I get to that point. On December 18, 2015 at 0:33 PM, Snowmobileaddict said: While I am bugging the crap out of you, where did you get this? I can find plenty of filter housings, but none with the mounting flange like you show here. Edited March 4, 2016 by WNYPCRepair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #250 Posted March 4, 2016 52 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: Thanks, that is what I had guessed, looking at the measurements for the mounting shoe. I ordered 6' they didn't have it, or even anything close at the steel store, so I will be stopped when I get to that point. While I am bugging the crap out of you, where did you get this? I can find plenty of filter housings, but none with the mounting flange like you show here. Okay, The uprights are indeed 3"x5" at 1/8" wall Also, the main boom pivot pin sits 40.5" above my flat concrete garage floor (my floor is pretty flat). The main boom arms are 1.5" x 2.5" tube with 1/8" wall. The boom cross bar is 2.5" x 3" at 1/8" wall. Last but not least...That filter mount. Yeah, I looked high and low to find that one. Its a great fit. I bought it from Summitracing.com Its moroso filter mount #23700 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23700/ The hydraulic filter that fits it is a Napa 1410, or you can even use the same hydro filter that the tranny on the 5xi uses. The threads are the same. I'm here to help! Its no problem at all. Glad to lend a hand! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites