Lab-Metal? Any Experience?

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've known of Lab-Metal for decades but oddly never used it nor do I remember anyone that has.  It looks like some handy stuff to have around!

Anybody used it or know anything about it?

http://www.alvinproducts.com/ProductLine/tabid/62/aT/View/ProductID/3/Lab-metal.aspx

Thanks!

Edited October 2, 2015 by DennisThornton
added URL

[rmaynard 15,730]

My neighbor used it successfully on some small dents he needed to fill prior to powder-coating a hood. But for general body work where electrical conduction is not necessary, regular old body filler such as Rage Gold is my choice.

[Ed Kennell 39,154]

Dennis,  during my 40+ years in a Hydro Turbine R&D lab, I have used a  lot of filler compounds to make alterations to turbine runners. Heat was not a factor, but these model turbines were rotating at 2K RPM under water.   My experience has been the Devcon and LAB METAL type products with the metal fillers do not feather out very well.
The best one I have found is a pattern makers filler called TUF FIL by FREEMAN.  It is easy to work, set up time is easily controlled by adjusting the cream hardener, has excellent adhesion on any surface, and can be machined with regular HS tooling.
Freeman also makes a high temp 350F product, but I have no experience with these.   I'm not a FREEMAN salesman...just sayin what worked for me.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

My neighbor used it successfully on some small dents he needed to fill prior to powder-coating a hood. But for general body work where electrical conduction is not necessary, regular old body filler such as Rage Gold is my choice.

Thanks Bob.  Further reading says it is not electrically conductive but somewhat heat conductive.  And I wouldn't consider using it as a replacement for body filler but I'm thinking it might offer some benefits that body filler might not, like being much more water resistant and stronger.  I have used Aluma-Lead where I thought it was a better choice, especially where water or rust might be an issue.  

And Ed, I've never heard of TUF FIL though I am familiar with several Dev-con products.  Seems to try to appeal to the woodworking trade with "Pine" and "Mahogany".  So TUF FIL is more substantial than regular 2 part polyester autobody filler?  Lots of other neat stuff too that's going to take some of my time to read through!

Thanks!

 

[wallfish 17,112]

I've used it to repair small holes in gas tanks as it holds up to gasoline. Definitely order the thinner along with it and follow the directions for covering the material in the can with the thinner after opening it. If not you will have a can full of hardened Lab-Metal like I have

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've used it to repair small holes in gas tanks as it holds up to gasoline. Definitely order the thinner along with it and follow the directions for covering the material in the can with the thinner after opening it. If not you will have a can full of hardened Lab-Metal like I have

John, I did read online that it was gasoline proof!  Lot's of things aren't!  Liquid Metal in a tube comes to mind.  I wonder it this it liquid metal in a can?

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Fill:

• Improperly or overbored holes, milled slots
• Surface defects, holes, rough and porous spots on castings
• Dents, gouges on wood or metal patterns, core boxes
• Damaged truck and auto bodies, rail cars
• "Scored pistons and cylinders"

Man!  Scored cylinders?  Maybe?  The rings would be wearing in the existing metal not the scored out but now filled areas.  I wonder?

Pretty neat reading!  http://www.lab-metal.net/InTheNews/tabid/161/ID/7/Lab-metal-Applications-Tips.aspx

 

["D"- Man 827]

I have tried this Lab Metal for the first time. I must agree with Ed, "Lab Metal products with the metal fillers do not feather out very well."  If you have never used this before and are using it for your first time, do yourself a big favor and just apply a small sample on a piece that you can learn on, because the less you put on, the less you have to take off, and this does not come off like bondo it requires much much more effort to remove.  The other thing is it sets so quick that you hardly have time to work it. Finally, if you plan on powder-coating after finishing, no higher than 420* F for no longer than 20 min. and limited to only one oven pass. Just my $.02  P.S. This product with the solvent is far more costly than even a good body filler.

[oliver2-44 9,923]

We've used several brands of "Lab Metal" and work and as Ed said, most don't fair out easily.  On curved surface we've had some success laying plastic wrap or wax paper on top of it and smoothing it out through the wrap.  This winter I used Alvin lab metal to fill some pits on a mower deck i rebuild, but haven't put it to use yet. 

 

P.S. all these filler products have a fairly short shelf life, and they really do go bad. check the can for a date and don't buy one that's about to expire.

Edited May 13, 2016 by oliver2-44

[R. L. Addison 299]

Belzona Molecular --- very expensive-- higher than a cats back in a dog-pound, but good product. 24" or bigger ingersol Rand air compressor lined about half  way up into the cylinder (seems liki maybe about 12") & remachined with this and ran for several years after. Don't remember ever using it, only saw compressor when being repaired & heard about it when filling in on machine line.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Friend in the chainsaw business bragged about Belzonia.  Mentioned the price too!