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Similar Content
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By Hoppy Rabbit
I went to a wheel horse show in PA and picked up a B-100 Automatic. I restored and cleaned it up after I brought it home. It had everything except the Headlights. I got a lense and looked online for the housing and cable. I found one on ebay except it was $67 plus shipping. It didn't even have all the parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265133794229?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dhBhG47STyW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.I was just wondering if there is anywhere to get a cheaper one with all the parts so I can finish it.
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By Ironman
After a year of getting my garage straightened out, I'm finally restoring and rewiring my 78 D250. You guys were very helpful in getting a lot or research material. I've looked through all the manuals for the D250 and only found wiring schematics/diagrams with a generator and separate regulator. I need the schematic for the D250 with an Alternator with built in voltage regulator. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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By wheelhorse-c-161-1979
Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work.
I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch.
After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition.
Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition.
Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition.
Very grateful for any help.
Thank you.
Jack
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By Jason Holt
I purchased a 312-8 model 73362 SN# 5900429 which I believe is a 1995. the previous owner bypassed all of the safety cutouts and had a push button start button but the key had to be in the on position. I wired the ignition switch and lights up as the push button was in the light switch hole. I had it working with the key switch and finished cleaning the wires up and lost what wires they had bypassing the safety switches. All along testing along the way. Put a new starter solenoid on, thinking it was damaged. It will start and runs fine if I jump across the started solenoid lugs. I am missing something with the tan wire off of the key switch to the harness tied into the motor and they had a jumper on the two safety bypasses that are tan and brown and yellow and cant remember the other color.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have looked for a good wire diagram but really haven't found a good one. I do like the safety bypassed just cant remember what they did. should have taken pics
thank you Jason
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By RocTeach
Hoping for some help, advice, anything to make my months-long mission to get my 520-H running a success story.
Inherited the tractor from the previous owner of my home. He rarely used it -- preferred his zero-turn -- and advised that I always keep it on the float charger when not in use. I used it for one month's worth of cuts last summer, and then began having problems. At first, the engine was surging. It would fluctuate from high to low rpm with the choke off. However, if I played with the choke (thereby getting way too much fuel and oil into my system), it would run for at least the rest of that cut. After having to keep it running with the choke, it eventually stopped turning over AT ALL.
I did the general maintenance: changed both plugs, dropped the oil, drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter, removed all of the visible (and accessible) electrical connections and cleaned them up. Bought a new battery as well, and the tractor started right up. Sounded better than ever. For one cut. By the end of the cut, I had to start messing with the choke again to keep it running.
So, I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter (because it was making a strange knocking sound), cleaned the (new-ish) plugs, bench tested the solenoid, changed the solenoid. When I connected the battery and went to start, I got (what sounded like) very little power to the starter. Loud clicking/rattling sounds ensued, so I brought the batt to Autozone to check the juice. It was at 50%, and it was only one month old. They charged it, and when I reconnected the batt...nada. Nothing. The same old clicking, metal-thrashing-like sound/s. I've tried to jump the solenoid directly -- same result. I've bypassed the solenoid and put all connections directly to the starter -- same result. I've downloaded as many Wheel Horse PDFs as I could find, including the demys guide. Now, I'm thinking about the regulator. Thinking about it as it sits in front of my laptop. It's an Onan 14v 20a. Two ACs and one B+ connections. I'm really hoping it's not the stator and/or the starter. So, any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with small engines from my years taking apart and racing dirt bikes, but things are just a bit more challenging to access with this beast. But, from EVERYTHING that I have read/heard, a working/running WH will be well worth all of my effort.
Sorry for the long post. I am an English teacher : )
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