Wheelhorse84 87 #1 Posted September 30, 2015 So on the C-120 I just purchased both sides of the hubs it looks like the shaft is popping out. Is this as simple as taking the tires off and sliding the hub out and retightening the set screw? Sorry no pics have not picked it up yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,265 #2 Posted September 30, 2015 Yes. You wouldn't even need to take the wheels off. They likely were put on like that. You might want to consider adding a set screw 90 degrees from the other. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #3 Posted September 30, 2015 thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #4 Posted September 30, 2015 The cup point on the original set screws is likely mashed. Go out and buy new grade 8 setscrews. While you are at it, buy an 8 point socket so you can really torque those suckers down. It is not possible to develop enough torque to bite into the key using a 3/8 open end wrench. If you do this, the problem goes away (maybe you need a new key, but that is a whole different problem). If you just retighten the existing screws, the problem is likely to reoccur. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #5 Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks for the advise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Doc did you buy my C-160 off me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #6 Posted October 1, 2015 No, it was a C141-8 that you picked up in East Longmeadow. You only had it a week or two when you found out that the needle bearing was toast. Yes, I had to split the transaxle and ultimately I needed another transaxle to fix it, but I got that one for free (it was bad on the opposite side so I put the two good halves together). It was a great learning experience and now I have a nifty home made heavy duty hub puller to get those pesky hubs off! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #7 Posted October 1, 2015 Ahh I'm glad you fixed it. Good to hear from you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #8 Posted October 2, 2015 So should the end of the axle be flush with the wheel? How much of the axle space should there be? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,265 #9 Posted October 2, 2015 Yes, flush to the end of the axle. There will be maybe about 3/4" gap from the transmission. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #10 Posted October 2, 2015 Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #11 Posted October 3, 2015 One Last question. So all I did was move the hub out flush. How do I know if the key is lined up properly. Wood that key and notch in the hub move because the hub slid in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,265 #12 Posted October 3, 2015 No. The key won't move. Just tighten the setscrew really tight and it will likely be fine. If it continues to loosen up then you can try the next step. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,927 #13 Posted October 3, 2015 The half moon shaped hole in the axle will not move and it keeps the key in place. You can remove teh setscrew and look down teh hole you will see the key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #14 Posted October 3, 2015 Can't nearly be tightened enough... or, you would need explosives to make those hubs move. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse84 87 #15 Posted October 3, 2015 cool beans. Thanks fellas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mid60's 93 #16 Posted October 4, 2015 Don't forget to back off the lock nut before tightening. I also use a drop of threadlocker on the setscrew. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
