520h idler arm and pully

[arrkerr 54]

Hi all.  The bearing went in the idler wheel on my 91 520h, and it was used that way so long half of the shaft is missing (I picked it up that way, wasn't my fault!).  So I'm in need of not only the pulley (Toro 112791), but the arm (Toro 78-6020).
Per:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/41-20oe02-520-h-toro-520-h-garden-tractor-sn-1000001-1999999-1991/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage-520-h_1/

Does anyone happen to have a good source for both, other than parts tree?  The pulley is what seems to be incredibly expensive.  I've seen some other posts here that suggest there might be a different part number, or a more generic pulley that happens to be the same or close enough - but unfortunately the links in those threads seem to be dead.

Thanks!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,108]

Someone wrote this at one time. I don't know if it is correct or not.

112791 Can replace with 93-1622 by swapping the bushings in the bearing or adding shim washers to the mounting bolt.

93-1622 is used on many mower decks and about 1/2 the price. The 112791 may have better bearings. It better have for $78 but you never know with Toro.

Garry

[Theroundhousernr 590]

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57157-cheaper-alternative-for-122791-idler-pulley/

  Here ya go. Direct fit and over half the price even when bought through toro.

[arrkerr 54]

Thanks Theroundhousernr.  I knew I'd seen that somewhere, don't know why it didn't turn up.  I don't appear to have a spacer on mine though.

This is what my shaft looks like, and the pulley just slid off the end - the bearing is completely gone, just a gigantic 1" hole in the middle.

Looks like maybe my spacer got eaten up too?  I don't see it mentioned in any parts diagrams, would it come with the pulley, the shaft, or neither?  I suppose if push comes to shove it looks like something I could fabricate or find something that'd work.

[Theroundhousernr 590]

That is not the shaft. That is the inner bearing race and the spacer is right behind it which is pressed into the race. You just loosen that bolt and press the spacer out of whats left of the race.

[Ed Kennell 38,894]

                     

Edited September 29, 2015 by ekennell

[arrkerr 54]

Oh wow, I see that now!  I'm off to the garage to get it off - fingers crossed!!

[Theroundhousernr 590]

Unfortunately, after better studying your pictures, it would appear the spacer was compromised some what from the failed pulley. You will have to use your judgement call as to whether you feel the spacer will still support the pulley properly and keep it running true. If not, you can still buy the same pulley part number I listed in my post. Just measure the lenght of the old spacer and add shims behind the spacer on the new pulley to get it to run true with the belt. Also replace that bolt if it was worn too.

[arrkerr 54]

Doesn't look like there is anything left of the spacer, it was worn all the way to the bolt threads), and what is left seems to be totally fused together.  The bolt I removed is completely threaded... is it actually supposed to be?  I was expecting it to only have threads for the first bit, and now I'm wondering if someone goofed with this before me and didn't do it right.  Or maybe it doesn't matter, since it isn't actually spinning around the bolt.

Guess I'll have to at least order the pulley, just thinking through what all I could need to possible bundle shipping / save time.

Where the shaft passes through the tractor body also has a LOT of play... looks like there was a bushing (Toro 7879) there as well that will need to be replaced, although the parts diagram isn't completely clear - I'm assuming that is the bushing I'm seeing in the diagram.

[Theroundhousernr 590]

The bolt is correct. It tightens the whole assembly together and there for does not spin on the bolt. All the spinning and wear takes place in the bearing. I could see in the first picture that the idler arm was way off center of the hole in the sheet metal. Most likely, the vibration of the failed pulley caused excess amount of wear due to bouncing and vibration of the idler arm. To remove the idler arm, pull the cover off the left side and there will be a clip on that shaft . Once off it should allow the shaft to slide right out. Then you can determine the damage of everything. Hopefully you can just replace the bushing but it seems unlikely you will get away that easy.

   How many hours on this unit??
   Kyle

[arrkerr 54]

There doesn't appear to be any bushing left, just two washers.  The hole through the body is definitely worn.  It looks like normally there is a thick circle (for lack of better words) around the hole, where a bushing would normally press (?) in.  I've tried to capture it in the photos.  I wonder if there is enough left to support a bushing, and I can maybe weld something in to provide some extra support... or certainly welcome to some ideas of what to do to repair the damage (I've got a small arc welder, should be enough to fix this somehow).

The shaft definitely has a bit of wear, I wonder if it is salvageable?

I know this is what the bushing should look like:
http://assets.partstree.com/parts/images/770/7879/med_PIC 1123.jpg

So maybe what I'm seeing is remains of a bushing, but I sure don't see the outer lip part in the second picture.  Maybe I can figure out something to weld in a bit of support, and it'd be fine?

For the shaft, I wonder if enough is gone to cause more vibration and early failure/wear on any parts I repair, or if it'd be fine.  Honestly I don't use the tractor much, I just like to own it - but I've never been one to skimp on a job - do it right, or don't do it (or pay someone else do do it right )

Oh, and Kyle it 1100hrs "young"