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mikekot3

WH 416-8 swap to a Briggs and stratton Vanguard 23hp v-twin

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mikekot3

Hi Everyone,
With some feedback I got from you all on the forum I am going swap in a 23hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V-twin engine conversion
kit from smallenginewarehouse.com I spoke to Zandy on the phone with a bunch of my questions and he was very helpful to me.
I am hoping to get it Thursday or Friday by truck delivery. I am hoping it goes well in the swap and I can cut grass again and use my old snow blower attachment from my old C-120.

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Bert

Sounds great, I'd like to see pics along the way :)

Edited by Bert

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mikekot3

I got my new engine this past week and I started taking it apart after work this week. I have the old engine off the tractor.
The new engine has custom brackets and is wired up for a bolt in conversion. I think the kit is well worth the money I
spent. I will post some pictures later this week.

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boovuc

Keep us in the loop, Mike. PICTURES!!!!!!!! :D

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Ed Kennell

                                                                              :text-yeahthat:                        :wwp:
                                                  

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mikekot3

I worked on my new engine today. I mounted it on the old onan plate with the adapter plate sandwiched between that and the engine. I am having trouble with the length of the exposed crankshaft. The new engine has some brass bushings to space out the pto pulleys and transmission drive belt. The old 16 hp Onan p216 engine is 2.725 inch from the face of the collar on the exposed crank nose to the end.
The new engine with the brass bushings installed is 3.355 inches approximately. My first question is can maybe stevebo or someone else measure a 16-20hp p-series engine for crankshaft stickout?
Since the new shaft is longer I cannot get the keyway stock to mount flush with the transmission drive pulley. It sticks out about 1/4 inch beyond the pulley when tapped in on the keyway.
Has anyone else done this conversion?
I guess I will have to call small engine warehouse and see what they have to say.
Thanks in advance.
mike

386447-WH520H_4.JPG

Edited by mikekot3

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Don1977

I have two Vanguards and the both have full keyways. You may need to move the engine to the left with some new holes in the engine plate. That will also require some spacers  ( washers) behind the PTO bracket.  I mounted my engine direct to the frame with 3/8" plate and a couple of 2" x 1/2" bars under the plate. To get the drive pulley lined up I had a space behind it. The PTO kept pushing the pulley over and I had to put a 5/16" spacer behind the pulley to stop it from moving. I suggest putting the spacers on and the drive pulley. Slide the engine over until the pulleys line up and check for clearance on the hood. I have a hood clearance problem on my C-120 but it has a 2" narrow hood. It hits the air filter housing I just push it over and latch it down.
 

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mikekot3

Don,
Could you elaborate on the keyway? did it look like the one I posted or was the keyways longer? Did you have to shorten the keyway stock from the onan?
 

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Don1977

Here is a picture of my 16 HP it has a full keyway and a 2 7/8" shaft. I'm guess the engine you have was built special for some manufacturer. I replaced a 12 HP K-series Kohler. I installed the 16 HP Vanguard in 1990. Had to make a lot of changes going from a 1 1/8" on the Kohler shaft to a 1" on the Vanguard. I had the drive pulley resized and added another sleeve inside the PTO sleeve.

SAM_0536.jpg
 

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mikekot3

Thank you everyone who has replied with suggestions.
I emailed the small engine warehouse and they said that the keyway stock can be shortened to as small as 5/16 long. I measured the stock it is 1/4 machine square key stock. Grainger's sells made in usa 1/4 by 1 inch square key stock package of 10 for 6.70 plus tax. The part number is 5WE55.
I will buy that and even if I have to make a couple practice ones it will be fine.

Edited by mikekot3

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Don1977

If you grind the radius on the bottom of the key you can fit it all the way back, might help a little.
 

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