paul lemelin 0 #1 Posted September 8, 2015 I have a 1972 gt 14 model#10502-7 k321 s model 60149c ser #4102326. tractor serial #is 878457. I have an 8362 ignition switch with an m instead of the i. I have the wiring diagram for this tractor with the pto clutch switch. I don't know if i'm wiring the pto switch upside down or if it doesn't matter. I need someone to break this down wire for wire so that i can get this right. i am frustrated to no end. i think the pto switcjh has me confused. PLEASE HELP THANKS Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #2 Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) This 1969 diagram should be the same. This is a double-pole single-throw switch. Two terminals on one side are connected in one position and the other two are connected in the other position.Does that make sense?With the switch mounted and the top pushed in the pto terminals should be connected.With the bottom pushed in the starter solenoid terminals should be connected.GarryThis diagram was not correct for the 1972 so removed it. Edited September 10, 2015 by gwest_ca 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #3 Posted September 8, 2015 Here's teh manual:http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/Tractor_1973_10-12-14-16Auto_OM_A-5325.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #4 Posted September 9, 2015 This 1969 diagram should be the same. This is a double-pole single-throw switch. Two terminals on one side are connected in one position and the other two are connected in the other position.Does that make sense?With the switch mounted and the top pushed in the pto terminals should be connected.With the bottom pushed in the starter solenoid terminals should be connected.Garry This is the same diagram that I have . Is there a jump from the R to the M? This 1969 diagram should be the same. This is a double-pole single-throw switch. Two terminals on one side are connected in one position and the other two are connected in the other position.Does that make sense?With the switch mounted and the top pushed in the pto terminals should be connected.With the bottom pushed in the starter solenoid terminals should be connected.Garry Thanks for the quick response! I will try this. It seems like there should be a jumper between the S and the M when does the M get power to the points? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #5 Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) The M is for magneto ignition which is self powered. The ignition wire is simply grounded to the chassis by the M terminal in the OFF position to shut the engine off..Do not allow any power into that black ignition wire. It will fry the ignition coil in a second.Garry Edited September 9, 2015 by gwest_ca 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #6 Posted September 9, 2015 Okay that being said! how do I test the coil to see if it is fried? I have continuity from positive to neg terminal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #7 Posted September 9, 2015 I'm thinking you have battery ignition instead of magneto ignition and that makes the 8362 switch wrong. Good thing is you can't harm battery ignition with a magneto switch. The bad thing is the 101876 switch is no longer available.http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1209-wh61-90-134-ignition-switches-1972-modelspdf/Battery ignition uses an external coil with a (+) and (-) terminal and suspect that is where you are getting the continuity from positive to neg terminal.1969-1971 GT-14 used the 8362 switch with breakerless ignition1972-1973 GT-14 used the 101876 switch with battery ignition. The online parts lists have this one wrong.If it was mine I would add a starter solenoid and a common 103990 ignition switch. That way it is like the later models using parts that should be available forever.http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/264-tractor-1979-c-series-wiring-detailed-kohler-poweredpdf/Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #8 Posted September 9, 2015 I'm thinking you have battery ignition instead of magneto ignition and that makes the 8362 switch wrong. Good thing is you can't harm battery ignition with a magneto switch. The bad thing is the 101876 switch is no longer available.http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1209-wh61-90-134-ignition-switches-1972-modelspdf/Battery ignition uses an external coil with a (+) and (-) terminal and suspect that is where you are getting the continuity from positive to neg terminal.1969-1971 GT-14 used the 8362 switch with breakerless ignition1972-1973 GT-14 used the 101876 switch with battery ignition. The online parts lists have this one wrong.If it was mine I would add a starter solenoid and a common 103990 ignition switch. That way it is like the later models using parts that should be available forever.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #9 Posted September 9, 2015 Gary I have an external coil. I also have an external coil, and a set of points. I have a 4 pole pto switch. I am thinking that I may have a bad coil. No spark I have the wiring diagram from wheelhorse with my owners manual and they show 8362. model is 1-0502 it has a 15 amp charging system ignition is battery The tractor is excellent except for this. I'm totally confused. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #10 Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) For battery ignition you require an ignition switch with an I (eye) terminal which supplies battery voltage to the coil (+) terminal in the RUN and START key positions.The 8362 switch with the M terminal will not do that and is for the older GT-14's that used a K321S-60125b engine with magneto ignition.The way to check the battery ignition is to make sure you have battery voltage at the coil (+) terminal. Once you have that check the voltage at the coil (-) terminal. Remove the spark plug so you can turn the engine over with your hands by turning the flywheel clockwise. When the points are closed you should have 0 volts at the coil (-) terminal. When the points are open you should have battery voltage at the coil (-) terminal. This cycle happens once for every 2 turns of the flywheel. The instant the points open you should get one spark. If you get a steady 12 volts at the coil (-) terminal the points are not closing or the contact surfaces are oxidized so when they are closed there is insufficient electrical contact. Polish and clean the contact surfaces.If you do not get 12 volts at the coil (-) terminal the points are not opening or there is a short to ground. The condenser at the coil should be wired to the coil (-) terminal also. They can short and prevent the voltage from cycling. Remove the condenser wire from the coil (-) terminal and see if that allows the voltage to cycle as you turn the engine.Let us know what you find.Garry Edited September 9, 2015 by gwest_ca 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #11 Posted September 10, 2015 (edited) Gary : Just to keep you updated. I went out and bought a new switch 5 post 4 position switch number 101917 which has been changed to a 92-6785. Thetractor started right up just fine! Only one little problem; the pto won't kick in and the tractor runs on accessory.one wire must be in wrong postion on the pto. I want to thank all you guys for chimming in to help me. I think my headache is over. We'll see. Edited September 10, 2015 by paul lemelin misspelling Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,196 #12 Posted September 10, 2015 Your PTO is not supposed to operate in the "Run" position, you have to go counterclockwise one click then it will engage the PTO if switched on. A generic switch won't do this for you. You could cobble something together that would work temporarily, but you need to get the right switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul lemelin 0 #13 Posted September 10, 2015 this is an updated wheelhorse switch from a toro dealer. what do you say is the correct switch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041 #14 Posted September 10, 2015 (edited) The 101917 and 92-6785 is almost the same as the original but it is a light duty switch that requires a starter solenoid. Here are the wiring diagrams for it. Also note that the 1-0502 model number for the 1972 Bronco 14 is not correct. Should be 1-0422 or 1-0423.You can also get a switch connector body with the 5 wires in it to add to your harness for a neater installation. Stens and Napa both have them.If you want a better copy download this filehttp://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/60-tractor-1972-bronco-14-charger-10-charger-12-da-om-wiring-snpdf/Garry Edited September 10, 2015 by gwest_ca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keith Townsend 0 #15 Posted March 5, 2017 Wireing schematic gt 14 wheelhorse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,730 #16 Posted March 5, 2017 You should open a new thread, get more help. Check the manuals section her for all GT 14 manuals we have. This is the wiring diagram http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3476-tractor-1971-gt-14-da-wiring-snpdf/ Welcome to RS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites