HorseHead1089 100 #1 Posted August 25, 2015 So, finally starting my first documented resto/mod. This a vision i will slowly update and work on from now, through this next coming year. So here are the outlines of this project...- 310-8 - Kohler Magnum 20 (as long as she runs)- Chrome rims and tires (later on, budget permitting)- Cool DecalsSo, first off in one of these photos i have my first repair right away, in the top of the console the guide for the steering shaft is twist and bent, so that will require some plating, also any tips for getting that console off the steering shaft? It looks like i will begin the process of dissembly, cleaning and priming some of the larger bodywork. seems my photos are to big for my allowed upload size, how do i get it bigger? Do i need to become a supporter? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 39,154 #2 Posted August 25, 2015 You'll have to drive out the spiral pin that connects the steering wheel to the shaft. Then use PB Blaster and some twisting and pulling to get the wheel off.I find it easier to remove the console from the tractor, then loosen the set screw in the thrust collar under the console and slide the collar down the shaft. The shaft can then be pulled up through the console and held in a vise with copper jaws to drive out the spiral pin and remove the wheel.Yes, supporter status will solve the photo problem. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #3 Posted August 25, 2015 A stream of pictures will be here as soon as i support redsquare. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muz123 1,192 #4 Posted August 25, 2015 sounds like a good idea! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #5 Posted August 28, 2015 so upon the first mock up with the motor, it barely fits! i found out the offset of the motor and bolt spacing will require a motor mount plate as it overhangs a fair bit, so it appears the right hand/ pto side mounting holes in the base of the motor block match up with U shaped notches in the frame, assuming that notch is to tighten motor to a mounting plate, so, the M18 and the M20 share the same block, so would a motor mount plate off a wheel horse with a K series twin or perhaps even an onan match up to the bolt spacing on the motor? Still working on supporter status... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #6 Posted August 28, 2015 well, looking around i found a flat mount plate for the 520s, 416s,ect... will thoes work or will i have to buy the bent drop plate and frame mounts for a c 175. or make my own flat steel mount. the thing is i cant afford to gain a ton of height. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #7 Posted August 28, 2015 You can use a plate from a Onan twin but it may not line up right and you will probably have to drill new engine mounting holes.Theres a seller on ebay right now selling a trans from a 418 horse, if you inquire they may have the mounting plate and you wont have to make a single change. Otherwise try want ad here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #8 Posted August 28, 2015 Yeah that 418 idea just occurred to me at my local shop had a few and it seemed like the best route Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #9 Posted September 2, 2015 Guess who got 2 year supporter title! as stated, pictures.As I got it...Sooo, after rolling it in it had progressed to this stage... Also may be able to view the crack in my console for the steering support... Also that steering tube seems squeaky and rather unattached? any fixes or advice?Ill get the photos of sandblast and other assorted photos up here as soon as progress continues. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,827 #10 Posted September 2, 2015 (edited) If you end up getting that magnum 20 set up wedged in and running, it will be an absolute beast. I may have to drop by and see it in person and and congrats on your supporter status! Edited September 2, 2015 by Aldon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #11 Posted September 2, 2015 my friends father who is a pro small engine mech. said it should run little to np! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,827 #12 Posted September 2, 2015 Basically a 520 without the Onan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #13 Posted September 2, 2015 would have to agree, as of now to restore and mod the 310 it would be cheaper than any 520 to do up around here.i do have to say....i think more 520-8s shoulda been made. "How to make a 520-8 on the cheap" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,827 #14 Posted September 3, 2015 I just met a fella in Indiana that converted a 520 into a 520-8. Looks great. Just like I would expect a stock version to look. I have to think 20hp gear drive would be one stout horse! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikekot3 92 #15 Posted September 3, 2015 Aldon any pictures or tips from your friend how he converted a 520-h to a manual trans? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,827 #16 Posted September 3, 2015 I did not get pics. He is pretty skilled on 520's. I think he used a new Tower from a 312 and modified it. Beyond that he would have to give the specifics. He is a member on here but visits the site seldom. I will let him know there is interest. Perhaps he will post a how to thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #17 Posted September 3, 2015 Today i took off the following parts to go to media blast, or wire wheeling-Front axle-tie rods-spindles-clutch brake pedals- brake linkages-clutch linkage-front attach-a-matic assembly-top of the control tower-side cover that the lift handle goes through.tomorrow i will get some pictures of the sandblasted and body filled parts that have already been done. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #19 Posted September 6, 2015 ok, i picked up a '96 314-8 today to swap wheels and possibly harvest the dial a height. Can anyone tell me how to get that casting and lift rod out? it looks like you remove the side panel, and the lowest vertical panel on the dash. can anyone confirm? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #20 Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) Got these and other parts and pieces ready to go, got the frame primed now I'm just awaiting to hear back about paint. also i picked up a 314 hydro for sale and took the tires from it, the rear tires read 10.5 wide, but what is the rim size, I am wondering what rim and tire combo will work best. im thinking ags in the rear and some sort of rib tires in the front. Tires in my mind-23in http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/23x10-50-12/23x10-50-12-carlisle-tru-power-4-ply/-26in thats wider, i think the carlise tru powers are designed to go on a smaller rim width to lay flatter. also how hard is it to raise the seat pan?http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/26x12-00-12/26x12-00-12-carlisle-tru-power-4ply/-fronts something like this, i forget the actual size http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/18x8-50-8/18x8-50-8-v61-hd-5-rib-4-ply/any suggestions are welcome! Edited September 8, 2015 by HorseHead1089 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 803 #21 Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) I'm following your build waiting to see that Magnum go on and was hoping you'd get some tire feedback from someone lots smarter than I, but here goes...IRT the 26", Seat pan is easy, but you may fight with the filler neck and your going to have to address the foot rests too. The 23" tru powers fit well on the 8.5" wheels from a 520H, but I see the 26s call for a 10.5 to 12" wide wheel. I don't know of a source for a wide wheel with the right backspace to fit a newer tractor with the tank under the seat. I think you may have to make 'em. The 16-6.5x8 v61s, mounted up on stock rims are a very square sidewall, I really think you would need a wider wheel for the big ones in your link. (edit:) I see they recommend a 7" wheel.BTW, your making great progress! Edited September 9, 2015 by Thor27 add Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #22 Posted September 9, 2015 These front tires in the links were to be used with a 26 inch rear tire, I am also gonna use the 1 inch drop spindles on the front from the 310 so I'll have an inch raise from regular to alow for any extra clearance and some stance! I will probably keep the same size fronts and run a 23x10.5 or somthing like that. The ones on the 314 where 9.5s and I think a 10.5 would have enough room. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 803 #23 Posted September 25, 2015 How's it going? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseHead1089 100 #24 Posted October 10, 2015 Wow, its been a while since I've even seen it in the garage ill post some photos later, but here is the rundown...-Painted motor tins-Smoothing out main motor shroud -Primed chassis-Maybe some red paint this weekend-Bolt still stuck in block-Primed linkages and tie rodsWhat needs to be done...-Paint frame/chassis-Clean Carb, Remove paint/gunk-Clean and paint intake runner-Buy copious amounts of shiny hardware-Possibly sandblast and paint rims when i get new tires-Need a motor mount plate from 418A or other kt-17 kt-19 m18 or m20 flat mount plate-Seat? not sure what kind yet, depends on the cash...-CUSTOM DECALS! -Throttle and choke cables-Lights-Engine pulley 5.5" if i recall....-Some sort of attachment for it...-Steering tube thingy-maybe some cool sunpro or autometer gauges or somthing...-Probably a lot of other things i forgot.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites