E-SWEDE 4 #1 Posted August 3, 2015 Just asking for some insight. My RJ58 has some small dents in the front of the hood, would you just leave the character in the hood or would you attempt to smooth it out to original before paint. Some areas of the metal on mine is thin and I'm afraid if I try hammering it out that I my create a lot more work for myself in the end. I have been thinking about filling the dents with bondo sanding and than feathering it out smooth. What do you think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #2 Posted August 3, 2015 Hammer and dolly. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive body hammer set. If you back up the metal, and go slow, you should be able to work out nearly all of the dents. Then use filler on the minor stuff.http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-body-and-fender-set-31277.html 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E-SWEDE 4 #3 Posted August 3, 2015 RedRanger to the rescue again. Thanks again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,639 #5 Posted August 3, 2015 I left the dents in my 704 hood. Adds character. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,164 #6 Posted August 3, 2015 Without seeing the dings and dents its hard too say... Pics? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #7 Posted August 4, 2015 I owned an autobody shop for 15 years and most folks appreciated it when I took the dents out. Even paid me to do so! <grin>Since there's great access to both sides I'd hammer and dolly them out, does require some experience, but so does filling and sanding filler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
infernus 8 #8 Posted September 30, 2015 I'm confident I could handle straightening the dents in my hood, however I've got rust pitting and am unsure of what filler to use that's going to stand up to being in very close proximity to the exhaust outside of JB Weld, which probably is a real pain to work with as a filler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #9 Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) A hammer and dolly that fits the area is your first best friend! Then fill with autobody filler. I've read of guys using JB Weld but that sounds like big time overkill to me. Not saying it's bad, just not necessary. I'd say that rust is the biggest cause of failure! Even the slightest will come back in time to haunt you. Grinding and blasting is great but you still need to metal prep and use good primers!There's even a sprayable polyester filler that works wonders when primer fillers just aren't quite enough to fill the pits. Edited September 30, 2015 by DennisThornton it to is... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #10 Posted September 30, 2015 Always wire wheel any pits. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,922 #11 Posted September 30, 2015 Infernus poses an interesting question about body filler withstanding the heat near an exhaust. What type of body filler do those of you that powder coat your horses use. As I understand powder coat goes through a 400 deg oven, so any filler than can with stand that should be near an exhaust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #12 Posted September 30, 2015 I've heard of "Lab Metal" http://www.alvinproducts.com/ProductLine/tabid/62/aT/View/ProductID/3/Lab-metal.aspxIt recommends no more than 325°F though unless one time use for less than 20 mins. There is high temp version that must be heat cured... but i've heard its pretty pricey. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #13 Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) Infernus poses an interesting question about body filler withstanding the heat near an exhaust. What type of body filler do those of you that powder coat your horses use. As I understand powder coat goes through a 400 deg oven, so any filler than can with stand that should be near an exhaust. I don't think any bondo/plastic filler is going to hold up to powder coating.You're going to need a good metal base for powder coat. Either leave the pits after blasting, or grind and polish it smooth. Maybe JB weld and polish it smooth might work. A hammer and dolly that fits the area is your first best friend! Then fill with autobody filler. I've read of guys using JB Weld but that sounds like big time overkill to me. Not saying it's bad, just not necessary. I'd say that rust it the biggest cause of failure! Even the slightest will come back in time to haunt you. Grinding and blasting is great but you still need to metal prep and use good primers!There's even a sprayable polyester filler that works wonders when primer fillers just aren't quite enough to fill the pits. As a body guy, what's your opinion on putting filler on bare metal? Should body fillers be applied to bare metal or over a good sealer? Edited September 30, 2015 by RedRanger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #14 Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) I put a ton of filler on bare metal in the 70's and 80's but today I would at least metal prep it, especially if there was rust to start with. I also took a liking to Aluma Lead which I think is a superior product especially if you think moisture is going to be present. Nothing beats welding in new metal when dealing with rust but at least Aluma Lead is less porous than regular autobody filler (Bondo to many!). Chromate and self etching primers could also be your friends! You really have to treat rust with care or it will come back and bite you! Edited September 30, 2015 by DennisThornton of to if 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #15 Posted September 30, 2015 There's so many levels of repairs that it's hard to cover everything in one paragraph. Making it look better for awhile to restoring it better than original depends on time, dollars and expectations. Working machine or show piece!I'd be happy to share what I know but keep in mind there's a very wide range of how to do things, not to mention varying opinions and results, and not to mention that while my knowledge has pretty much stood still the industry has thankfully progressed! Better products today than what I had to work with! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #16 Posted October 1, 2015 Dents add character, it up to you to try n fix, or leave be.As for rust pitting, wire brush, and however many coats it takes of filler primer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
infernus 8 #17 Posted October 1, 2015 A wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it.A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaulC 342 #18 Posted October 1, 2015 I have actually used JB weld as filler 3 different times now and its worked great! It goes on just like bondo and actually sands off pretty easily with an orbital sander. I did a thread a few months ago of a deck repair I did for a co worker and referenced how I used JB weld as filler. Hes been using it this whole season and as far as I know its holding up just fine.As far as fixing them or leaving them I say fix them! If you are putting in the time to make it look nice once again the dents may bug you, and if you do indeed miss the dents once youre done you could always just whack it with a hammer and put them back . I fixed up and painted a 312 of mine a few years ago and fixed a big dent in the front of the hood but didn't realize there were 4 minor ones on the top of the hood. They didn't get filled and they bug me to this day. I have tried to work them out but with no success im worried I will mess up the paint or make more dents and essentially make it look worse. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #19 Posted October 1, 2015 (edited) I have actually used JB weld as filler 3 different times now and its worked great! It goes on just like bondo and actually sands off pretty easily with an orbital sander. I did a thread a few months ago of a deck repair I did for a co worker and referenced how I used JB weld as filler. Hes been using it this whole season and as far as I know its holding up just fine.As far as fixing them or leaving them I say fix them! If you are putting in the time to make it look nice once again the dents may bug you, and if you do indeed miss the dents once youre done you could always just whack it with a hammer and put them back . I fixed up and painted a 312 of mine a few years ago and fixed a big dent in the front of the hood but didn't realize there were 4 minor ones on the top of the hood. They didn't get filled and they bug me to this day. I have tried to work them out but with no success im worried I will mess up the paint or make more dents and essentially make it look worse. I picked up some JB that I plan to use to smooth out some pitting on a deck. I figured it would be hard as steel, which has to be better than bondo on a deck. Glad to hear it worked well.As for removing dents without damaging existing paint, hard to do.In thin sheet metal such as hoods, you might want to check your local business for someone that does "Paintless Dent Removal". These guys work on autos removing hail dents and door dings with special tools and tricks. Cool thing is they do not damage the paint. When done, you can't tell there was a dent. Price is not too bad either. Generally $50 or less for a simple dent. If you're trying to save the paint or patina, this may be the way to go.On thicker material, your only real option is hammer and dolly and repaint.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zSz2VpYkn8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhT79ZXU2x4 Edited October 1, 2015 by RedRanger 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #20 Posted October 1, 2015 A wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it.A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler... Really! It's hard to stress how important it is to metal prep and use a good primer for the LONG term. Ordinary primer/fillers are not the BEST primers for preventing rust and not the best for filling deep pits either! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-101plowerpower 1,606 #21 Posted October 1, 2015 There's so many levels of repairs that it's hard to cover everything in one paragraph. Making it look better for awhile to restoring it better than original depends on time, dollars and expectations. Working machine or show piece!I'd be happy to share what I know but keep in mind there's a very wide range of how to do things, not to mention varying opinions and results, and not to mention that while my knowledge has pretty much stood still the industry has thankfully progressed! Better products today than what I had to work with! please share, there's probably a ton of guy's out there who wan't to know how to even apply bondo( i know i wanna know) anyway i'd like to be educated 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #22 Posted October 1, 2015 There's so many levels of repairs that it's hard to cover everything in one paragraph. Making it look better for awhile to restoring it better than original depends on time, dollars and expectations. Working machine or show piece!I'd be happy to share what I know but keep in mind there's a very wide range of how to do things, not to mention varying opinions and results, and not to mention that while my knowledge has pretty much stood still the industry has thankfully progressed! Better products today than what I had to work with! please share, there's probably a ton of guy's out there who wan't to know how to even apply bondo( i know i wanna know) anyway i'd like to be educated I suppose what I was offering is to try to have some answers, offering a course would be nice but sadly time just won't allow it and this really is a tough media to cover everything... I would have little idea how to teach someone to just hammer and dolly through a forum. Hands on I could help someone in minutes! Same with the rest but I can at least help here and there and perhaps point folks where to get more. Eastwood.com is a great site to gather some help and at least look at some tools and supplies. Autobody is such a collection and combination of skills that there is a reason why it takes years to master them all!And like so many skills, it's all in the details! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-101plowerpower 1,606 #23 Posted October 1, 2015 i understand. i'm mostly reffering to the tips and tricks of a skilled person, like don't just slap it on, you'll probably have to sand it down anyway Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #24 Posted October 2, 2015 If you prep well, hammer and dolly well, then there is should be little need for filler. Older cars had such thick metal that you could work the metal and file your way back to perfection! It was also so much thicker that the welding distortion was far less! Today's vehicles are so thin that those old techniques don't work well! I doubt that "paintless dent repair" would have worked well back then for many of the dents!Perhaps my first tip about autobody filler is to try not to use any! Or at least as little as possible! I've seen it an inch thick or better! It was never meant for that! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,923 #25 Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Older cars had such thick metal that you could work the metal and file your way back to perfection! It was also so much thicker that the welding distortion was far less! I doubt that "paintless dent repair" would have worked well back then for many of the dents! You got that right. When I was a teenager, we had an old 40s Ford pickup, and one day we had to go into the ditch when someone else came around the corner on our side of the road. The other side of the ditch was a small rise, and we slid along that on the side of the truck for 30 feet or so, until we got out of the ditch. Got out expecting to see the fenders at least dented, and probably the doors. There wasn't a dent or even a scratch. All the previous dents had been filled with lead, by the way. That was a solid chunk of metal. Edited October 2, 2015 by WNYPCRepair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
