Denny's Free Suburban Work

[WHX?? 48,815]

Work is coming along but not as quickly as i hoped, blasted hot weather has got me jumpin....Did get to work on the front rims a little last night. Found this primer at a big box so going to try it rather than the self etching. Got a coat on and it did ok on some of the smaller pits. 'nother coat tonite with some pics. Funny how the cloride only attacked the outside while the insides are clean!?!?!?

By the way I dumped the cloride from them on some pesky weeds...makes a good weed killer!

 

Edited August 18, 2015 by WHX4
bad pic

[RedRanger 1,468]

Filler primer is for filling small sanding marks, not large pits.  It will shrink over time if you put it on real thick.  Needs to bake in the sun for a few days.
Personally, I'd stick with the etching primer for bare metal.  It bonds better.

[WHX?? 48,815]

For a few days Red?? Who can wait that long with this kind of addiction?!?!? ....You know darn well I am probably going to have finger prints all over them in short order! Can I just put them in the wife's oven to help the process along? I bet that would fly with her real well....

Seriously I should let them dry and get into that tranny...

Edited August 18, 2015 by WHX4

[MikesRJ 552]

I hope you're going to sand blast those rims first.

[WHX?? 48,815]

Did Mike ....what you see is after sandblasting! pics of the unblasted one further up in the thread. They took on that brownish look after they came out of the regular parts cleaner after a water ultrasonic cleaner I have at work

[MikesRJ 552]

@WHX4

There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion.

ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/

My RJ rims started out like this:


And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

 

 

Edited August 20, 2015 by MikesRJ

[WHX?? 48,815]

Depending on how in-depth you're going, use SPI's epoxy primer, then use body filler for the pits, then use their regular or high build primer to finish before you put a top coat on.

If it was me, I'd just put a good coat of epoxy primer on and top coat, letting the pits be as long as they're blasted clean.

 

Thanks @‌MikesRJ I saw a product real similar to this at an OReillys where i was contemplating bondo and another member suggested  the above. Problem is since this girl is not going to get new paint or be a complete resto, goin for the as found look but good mechanicals. if I do these things too well (probaly not gonna happen with my talent level ) the rims are gonna look too cherry for the rest. I may have to run it through the mud to give it the old school patina we are looking for. In other words I think we want some pits in the thing to match the rest. Was even thinkin an overspray on the final  coat to dull them up abit. I don't think it's gonna look right with shiney wheels and 55 year old OEM red.

Nice job on your rims, those are the tire style I am looking for and do I see sealed bearings instead of the solid steel ones? Also did you have any luck finding  OEM style tubes?

By the way were those rims good or better on the back side. I am thinkin weepage around the valve stems is what does the front side in? Edited August 18, 2015 by WHX4
add

[MikesRJ 552]

I found OEM tubes, but wasn't about to pay $80 apiece for them. Yes, some things on my tractor went away from original, like the bearings, so that the restore would outlast me into the next generation. I'll be dead and gone by the time this one needs to be restored again. The original tires you see in the second picture are the same as shown in the first. They were cleaned and ME Miller's Tire Blacked. Stuff looks great on old rubber.

 

Edited August 18, 2015 by MikesRJ

[WHX?? 48,815]

YIKES  A piece!?!? ...guess that ends my lookin...parts for the Clinton is has taken up that budget! New look alike rubber for the front is over 100 and thats NOT even with cheap tubes for front & rear.   Oem tubes in this girl were real high quality HD tractor tubes.

Edited August 18, 2015 by WHX4

[MikesRJ 552]

That's why I put regular TSC tubes in them, even the rear tires. Thankfully the previous owner never put the liquid in the tires. I happen to have an original set of RJ front tires around here somewhere. Have to see if I can locate them. I've got so many RJ parts spread between four buildings, I don't know what I have anymore. I know I have enough to build another RJ, that's for sure.

Edited August 18, 2015 by MikesRJ

[RedRanger 1,468]

For a few days Red?? Who can wait that long with this kind of addiction?!?!? ....You know darn well I am probably going to have finger prints all over them in short order! Can I just put them in the wife's oven to help the process along? I bet that would fly with her real well....

Seriously I should let them dry and get into that tranny...

That filler primer takes a while to fully cure if you put it on thick.  It shrinks as it cures.  If you paint it right a way, you'll see your body work come back through the paint over time.  Most auto body shops either bake the car after spraying it or let the car sit for a week or two in the sun to fully cure before working on it more.  I'd stick with putty or bondo for those large pits.  Maybe even a liquid steel around the valve stem area.  Body work takes patience.

Like mentioned, that brown on those rims is rust.  Needs to be blasted again and primed right away or your paint will fail over the next year.  On a humid day, that flash rust will occur within hours on bare metal.
You can use the putty or filler primer over a good primer.

My RJ rims started out like this:


And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

 

WOW!

[WHX?? 48,815]

That's why I put regular TSC tubes in them, even the rear tires. Thankfully the previous owner never put the liquid in the tires. I happen to have an original set of RJ front tires around here somewhere. Have to see if I can locate them. I've got so many RJ parts spread between four buildings, I don't know what I have anymore. I know I have enough to build another RJ, that's for sure.

Yah I hate that when happens... when you don't know what you have anymore....hear tell that gets worse with age....think someday I'm gonna have to have a computerized inventory system!  Thank goodness my wife is worse with her cupboards & pantrys so she doesn't give me static when I  and wonder where it is!

Thanks for the tips guys. Tire guy called today sayin my tires are in so I think what I am gonna do is mount them up and  just run them primer for now and see what happens. No big deall to pull them later and start again.   Thats exactly what happened Red. Blasted them last week and even tho they sat in my dry air conditioned shop over the weekend  it was real humid out and they musta flash rusted. I though maybe it was from the detergent I run in the water ultrasonic cleaner cause it didn't happen to the rears and they didn't go thru the ultra. Etch primered the rears and they look great..hopefully top coat tonite.

Stupid ? tho....whats the single hole in those RJ rims for? I see most RJ rims have them.....

[MikesRJ 552]

@WHX4

Never have been able to definitively determine what that hole is for, to be honest. It may very well be that the hole was in the rims that happened to be available at the time and had no WH specific purpose. Edited August 19, 2015 by MikesRJ

[clip 185]

Possibly a feature of the manufacturing process. Could have had a pin go through the center and one through the outer hole and used to turn while rolling, shaping, etc.

[WHX?? 48,815]

‌@CasualObserver

Well we were wondering what the tires were going to look like.... not sure if I like them or not. not quite as beefy as OEM and defininite narrower. I was hoping they would have had a more squared shoulder.  They have  Firestone Turf Guide on them as they were called in Miller site. Are these the same tires as Millers?

My tire man did mention about how Miller aquired the molds

‌@Shynon

Would it be acceptable Tom to put these on in just primer? The backs I have in WH white but I don't think they are gonna fit in with the motif. Kinda like putting mags on a vintage "59 Panhead! I think the red oxide would go well with the rest of the tractor?

[Shynon 7,459]

I would paint the rims front and back. I think the tires may not look right, they don't really have the flat surface, ballooned out like a wheel barrow tire. Do you have tubes in them? if so let some are down and see if they loose that rounded look.


  Tom

[WHX?? 48,815]

Agreed, 14 psi now,will drop them down to 8. Yes on the tubes.

Edited August 22, 2015 by WHX4

[RedRanger 1,468]

They are two different style/model of tire.  Never going to look the same as the square edged "saw tooth".

One is a lawn tire, the other is a general purpose work tire.

Edited August 22, 2015 by RedRanger

[WHX?? 48,815]

Engine work coming along ...slowly but coming along. Couldn't clean the fins good with just parts cleaner so masked off the base and blasted. Before I started every fin was filled to the outside with mud from wasp nests..... hard as concrete.

Think maybe someone at one time had a problem with exhaust nipple?!?!?

I have no idea why this is here or what it was for? Maybe a wire that they used for hanging the block on an assembly line???

I used to chase women....  now just threads!!! 

Edited August 28, 2015 by WHX4

[WHX?? 48,815]

Exhaust valve seat bothers me a little very small pits in it that won't come out with this.... I am using a course followed by a fine lapping compound. Probaly should have them ground but probaly won't. This motor is not going to see real heavy use.  Sorry not very good pics of the pitting.

This is a Clinton motor, not a Kohler.

Plan on painting the fins flat high heat black ..not orginal but moslty covered by tins.

Did get the tire issues resolved in a strange way. Pics & full story to follow

[WHX?? 48,815]

Up date on the motor....Valve guides are wayyyy out of spec so gotta start looking for valves with oversize stems. Don't want it to be a smoker. This is gonna be fun....found some guy on fleabay with them but was askin some serious coin for them. Tappets are also hollowed out on top so will need those.  Also means a trip to machine shop for reaming and seat work.

[WHX?? 48,815]

On your transmission...take a look at the brake band mount on the side plate.  If it is vertical, it is a #5003...if it is at a 45 degree angle, it is a #5010.  It should be a #5010.  Bearings, bronze bearings, seals are available.  The axle seals are only available from TORO and are about #18 each.  Let's see what you need after you open it up. 

Managed a little shop time this weekend and while waiting for the motor to come back from the machine shop decided to get started on the 5010 tranny. Things looked well inside but a few of the 1519 bearings were hard to turn (gritty) and the 1502 bearings had a bit of slop so it seemed.  Theses two bearings seem to have the same id/od so why are they different? Would it be wise just to replace them all?  The axels are scored so will have to get some new outer bronze  bushings and flip the axels after drilling new roll pin holes. I also didn't realize it untill I had it apart that the diff. also rides on bronze on the inboard sides and they are fairly grooved. I would guess the bronze sleeves can be replaced but what about the the stub of the axel tube that they ride on? Wat is the best way to get these sleeves out?

If  anybody has a favorite source for these bearings & bushings let me know please. Also looks like I will have to get a blind hole bearing puller so if someone has one that they like/works let me know...other than 'saurus's method of  ruining a perfectly good wood chisel and grinding on.....what are they called....um um umum .....oh.. carriage bolt..... ‌@stevasaurus

Edited September 21, 2015 by WHX5

[slammer302 2,155]

I think their is somebody selling rebuild kits for that trans can't remember who 

[Racinbob 11,076]

That would be Jake Kuhn. Send him a PM and he may be able to help you out.

[WHX?? 48,815]

Will do that Bob....thanks......... some good stuff pinned in transmisions that I can research as well.