Denny's Free Suburban Work

[WHX?? 48,721]

Starting to look like a tractor anyway. Hotter than haites here last couple days. The ac in the shop decided to go south and I don't feel like fixing it. After working on them all day I don't feel like working on them when I get home!

Motor is all together and in. Was a little stubborn starting and plenty of recoil issues. Finally got it started with a wrap around cord and once running and the carb dialed in it ran pretty good. Had problems wth the head gasket leaking. Manual says torque to 210 in lbs and in a clock wise pattern instead of cross wise which i thought was odd and they wouldn't stay put. Got poed and cranked them down to 25 ft lbs cross wise and seemed to hold. Also having problems with the drive belt but the belt is old and dry rotted so a new one is in order. If someone can point me in the right direction as far as correct length be obliged. The old one appears to be about 29" and doesn't disengage fully.

[AMC RULES 37,124]

  C'mon man...  

put some clothes on already.  

[Achto 27,489]

Looks like it coming together quite well.

[WHX?? 48,721]

It is Dan but a few stumps in the road. The tractor didn't have a recoil on it so got a the right one but the pawls dont engage the flyheel cup at all. Also got the right drive belt from Ace in Ripon. WH # 1569 crossed to a 4L29  but can't  get the belt to stop spinning in neutral with the clutch in.  Pics tonite when I get home.  

Edited August 8, 2016 by WHX7

[Racinbob 11,030]

Jim, is the belt guard on?

 

On 8/6/2016 at 9:22 PM, AMC RULES said:

  C'mon man...  

put some clothes on already.  

 

Just be thankful that rear wheel was there.

[WHX?? 48,721]

Now Now boys..... it was 95 degrees in the shop and I did have shorts on!

[Racinbob 11,030]

I'm curious. What manual said to torque the head in a clockwise pattern? The manual I have states 200 in lbs in a crossing pattern.

[WHX?? 48,721]

No Bob belt guard not on I tryed it with in on but still the same. I do have to fab a spacer for the front guard mount. My 401 the belt stops with the guard off.

14 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

The manual I have states 200 in lbs in a crossing pattern

Keep in mind this is a Clinton but I still would have thought a cross pattern

To even out block stress.

[Racinbob 11,030]

Now that sounds like me. Sitting here thinking that Clinton looks pretty cool on there then I go and look at the Kohler manual for the head torque and sequence. Sometimes I scare me........ok, often I scare me.

 

I'm not sure if the belt guard is as critical on the mid engine machines but I figured I throw it out there. I knew that you were aware of that but maybe had had one of my many moments (see above). The 1569 belt is a 29" but for some reason it was too tight on mine. I went to 30".  

[Shynon 7,459]

On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2016 at 5:06 PM, WHX7 said:

Starting to look like a tractor anyway. Hotter than haites here last couple days. The ac in the shop decided to go south and I don't feel like fixing it. After working on them all day I don't feel like working on them when I get home!

Motor is all together and in. Was a little stubborn starting and plenty of recoil issues. Finally got it started with a wrap around cord and once running and the carb dialed in it ran pretty good. Had problems wth the head gasket leaking. Manual says torque to 210 in lbs and in a clock wise pattern instead of cross wise which i thought was odd and they wouldn't stay put. Got poed and cranked them down to 25 ft lbs cross wise and seemed to hold. Also having problems with the drive belt but the belt is old and dry rotted so a new one is in order. If someone can point me in the right direction as far as correct length be obliged. The old one appears to be about 29" and doesn't disengage fully.

Jim

 

  Would you happen to know  a good AC repairman? This is a family oriented forum.  Oh by the way it's looking good

Edited August 9, 2016 by Shynon

[AMC RULES 37,124]

I was thinking...Jim might be putting a new spin...

on this old  favorite.   

 

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by AMC RULES

[WHX?? 48,721]

LOL Craig....maybe start a colony when it's this hot out...sides if a man can't work in his own shop topless where can he???? .... you pervs were sposed to be checkin  out the temp gas from an old snow blower! Maiden seat time tonite but some minor issues... steers like a Porsche with that new front end....more tomorrow with pics...

Bob...got a,28, 29 & 30 in belt just to see and the 29 worked & seemed best. 

Edited August 9, 2016 by WHX7

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175]

On February 16, 2016 at 6:50 PM, WHX7 said:

Here's the bearing 

Sorry about the upside down one......appears to be a nice 7277

Od is a best guess,.... here's the one achto has for me, will pick it up tommorow. 

 

 

Just checking out this thread....If the pulleys you speak of are the same as the ones on my 60's Lawn Rangers and short frames, They are very rebuildable.   I just grind out the rivets , replace the bearing with NAPA bearing #P62002RSJ   .There is a much higher quality bearing of the same size available also from NAPA, but VERY spendy...I want to say over $35.   My Good friend Denny from Pawnee set me up with the tools to reset new rivits in these pulleys    Rebuilt a few and getting quicker at doing these now.

 

Just my 

Edited August 9, 2016 by Terry M

[WHX?? 48,721]

Resetting the OEM rivets would be the cat's meow Terry....35 clams for the bearing is spendy...Call me a tight wad but 4.95 with shipping  on fleabay and since I'm only taken it to church every other Sunday bet it will last a while. I did have a separate thread on doing these you might have missed & I think its in restorations/reference ...not sure but would believe them to be the same as LR's & short frames...quick check of the WH p/n should confirm it. Heres the link....

 

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by WHX7

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175]

Jim, just replacing the rivets with new ones.  The NAPA bearing #P62002RSJ   is only a few dollars.    I just stated that theres a Higher quality one for the $30+ price.

here's the one I use.   I bought a few a while ago...so I'm set for a while.

 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 48,721]

I always forget that NAPA has common bearings. Don't have to wait for the mailman to bring them and it seems theres always a NAPA on the way to somewhere!

 

 

The last piece of the puzzle... since the steering wheel was froze on tight Denny had taken this apart and removed the column when I picked it up so ithe tractor would clear the cap in the truck. I attempted to remove the wheel but feared I would damage it so just refiinshed the wheel &  left as is. Since the this was the first to come apart it was the last to go back together!

The first ride!

[WHX?? 48,721]

Never mine the Michael Jackson one handed glove... had to start with wrap around cord and that can leave nasty rope burns!!

 

Couple of things left

Fix the throttle...works in reverse somehow I don't have the cable on the govenor arm right ... should took a pic of how it was ...

Connect the choke .... this motor starts first pull with the choke on and a bit of throttle. was going to rig up a cable but @Racinbob says it was just a wire from the lever to the choke so have to fab that with the new z bends pliers!

 

Figure out why the belt drive doen't stop with the clutch in

 

Fix the recoil...this thing is kicking my but royal... building up the cup & pawls with some JB weld ..see if that works.

 

Kill switch  -  I did run a wire out from the points landed on an insulated terminal on the back of the flywheel plate but not quite sure what was an orginal kill?  Note the wire hanging down off the throttle, was that  to ground out the plug? Was thinking a small piece of springy thingy where the points lead is landed. I have a wire on it now just for temporary or a switch mounted somewwhere?

[Achto 27,489]

Always great to take that first ride after getting them together. That smile says it all. Great work! If your still having trouble getting the belt to stop when the clutch is pushed in, add a belt brake to the idler pulley. I had to do that with mine. One bent out of a piece of 16ga will do wonders.

 

[Achto 27,489]

9 minutes ago, WHX7 said:

If you add a belt brake to the idler pulley it will pull down on the belt to create slack. Then I would also adjust the belt brake on the engine down a little to allow more slack around the engine pulley.

 

[WHX?? 48,721]

On ‎2‎/‎16‎/‎2016 at 7:52 AM, Molon_Labe said:

My idler identical to yours Bob with the shoulder stud pressed into the bearing so I would guess that that is the original configuration.

You Mean like this Dan,  The 401 has just the s thingy mounted on the block just like in my pic and it works great... must have been a Clinton thing. I just set this one just to barely touch the belt when the clutch is out. Have no idea how it is 'posed to stop the belt??

Should the s thingy be flipped around to face forward?? Thinkin that would force the belt down off the drive pulley.  The wear marks on it would jive that way as well. Can't figure out why it works on one tractor and the same setup does not work on the other. Minute difference in the stretch of the drive belt?? The 401 does have a bit of difference on the pedal side linkage.

[Achto 27,489]

30 minutes ago, WHX7 said:

Kill switch  -  I did run a wire out from the points landed on an insulated terminal on the back of the flywheel plate but not quite sure what was an orginal kill?

I could be wrong, but I thought the models with a Clinton engine had a hole in the hood to the right of the steering column for a kill switch. If this is the case I have a nice chrome horn button that would do the trick for you.

 

3 minutes ago, WHX7 said:

You Mean like this Dan

Yes just like that one. If you bend it out of some 16ga you should be able to hold it on with the lock nut for the pulley. Your belt brake on the engine appears to be a little too close to the belt, maybe. It might actually be holding tension on the belt & not letting it get loose enough around the engine pulley.   

[WHX?? 48,721]

Don't want to grind a pound or two in this fresh tranny!

Edited August 9, 2016 by WHX7
Add

[Racinbob 11,030]

Here's the choke rod.

 

The kill switch was through the throttle control. Pulling it all the way to the rear to the off position shorted it. I remember my Dad cussing it way back it the early 60's because it wasn't a reliable stop. I used a kill switch mounted like Dan mentioned.

 

DISCLAIMER!!!!!!! Remember that I have Kohler on my mind.

 

 

[WHX?? 48,721]

12 minutes ago, achto said:

I could be wrong, but I thought the models with a Clinton engine had a hole in the hood to the right of the steering column for a kill switch. If this is the case I have a nice chrome horn button that would do the trick for you.

Some did some didn't...was a Pond thing I guess. Nice chrome horn button would be great..... along with shiney ss fasteners, fresh red paint.... guys would castrate me if I didn't stay original!

 

4 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

cussing it way back it the early 60's because it wasn't a reliable stop

 Thats what I thought Bob, ,sides I like the idea of just pulling back the the throttle to idle without killing....might have to go for a secret hidden  kill switch!

M choke plate comes out the top the carb but I get the idea. Amazing how same model same year tractor left the factory different then the last one off the line ...thanks

[Achto 27,489]

3 minutes ago, WHX7 said:

Nice chrome horn button would be great..... along with shiney ss fasteners, fresh red paint.... guys would castrate me if I didn't stay original!

I could always start the aging process on the button for you, should take me  about 2 weeks maybe less to make it look 50 + yrs old.