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Shynon

Aldon here are some pics of my Gt 14 hood hinges and latch, let me know if you need anything else.

 

 

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Aldon
3 hours ago, Shynon said:

Aldon here are some pics of my Gt 14 hood hinges and latch, let me know if you need anything else.

 

 

Shynon, thanks. Much appreciated. It's the mechanism in your first pic that I'm most interested in. It appears that it simply swivels and catches under the cast iron noses lip. Is there anything that causes it to stay in place? Tension so to speak?

 

3 hours ago, Shynon said:

 

 

 

 

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ztnoo

I've been looking at the pics of the hood hinges. My '69 GT 14 hood shows no evidence of either the hinges, or the pivot mechanism attached to the inside of the back area of the hood sheet metal. No welds, no evidence of anything ground off or modified....simply nothing.

My hood latch on the front is exactly the same setup and arrangement, minus the rubber or hard plastic knob on the top side.

The back of my hood merely squeezes down around the instrument/dash panel casting. Nothing else holds the back of my hood on except friction.

Aldon & Shynon, what are the model numbers and years of manufacture of your GT 14s???

Maybe there was a later update to this hood design that was incorporated into the first year, 1969, 1-7441 model?

Thoughts from the two of you, or anyone?

 

Regards,

Steve

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Aldon
6 minutes ago, ztnoo said:

 

Aldon & Shynon, what are the model numbers and years of manufacture of your GT 14s???

Maybe there was a later update to this hood design that was incorporated into the first year, 1969, 1-7441 model?

Thoughts from the two of you, or anyone?

 

Regards,

Steve

 

Steve,

 

I have 3 GT14's. One had the hinged hood. That was the newest. It is a 1971 model. Perhaps someone else more familiar with multiple years can give you more info on when they started using the hinged hoods.

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Shynon

Here's some pictures of the latch, it works the same as all the C series, has a little tension then I believe it moves to over center to keep it latched. Knobs are same as a parking brake on a hydro. Hope this helps

 

 

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ztnoo

What I was referring to were the HINGES in the back of the hood.

More pics of that area would be helpful.

My front latching mechanism is exactly like what you are showing, Shynon.

 

Model numbers gentlemen, model numbers of your GT 14s.......that tells us what year they were manufactured.

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Shynon

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oldredrider

The 1969 GT14 had clips on the inside of the hood (on the sides). The hood clips would slide into the hood stand. The 1970 and later years had the "pins" and "slide" type bars attached to the hood stand.

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ztnoo

Paul,

That probably explains why my hood doesn't have any pivots on the back of the hood.

If they were a slide on/clip on affair, they were obviously lost long ago.

These old beasts are a constant process of discovery.

:unsure:

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ztnoo

I have a sheet I print off the net several years ago that was a list of WH models from 1966 thru 1976.
I think the list was much more inclusive, but I printed what was relevant to me considering the time period I was concerned with.
Unfortunately, I've been through about 4 computers since then, and that link was lost. C'est la vie.

Anyway, here's what was on that list, as it pertains to GT 14s:

1-7441    1969
____________

1-7451    1970
1-7452    1970
1-7453    1970
____________

1-0500    1971
1-0501    1971
____________

1-0502    1972
1-0503    1972
____________

1-0502    1973

If a GT 14 owner knows where to look for the VIN plate identifying his tractor by model number, he'll know the year of manufacture.



 

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ztnoo

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Richard,

Your first file was what I printed from years ago.

Good to know I wasn't hallucinating.

Thanks,

Steve

 

 

 

 

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ztnoo

Aldon,

I'd like to apologized to you. I'm new to the forum, and since I have a GT 14, I'm anxious to learn more about them to keep mine running.

My tractor is a worker and I seriously doubt at my age I would ever tackle a project like yours to beautify and refresh the old girl, but I marvel at what you are doing and achieving.

In my haste to learn and in my enthusiasm to know and absorb info from other GT 14 owners, I fear I have hi-jacked your wonderful restoration protect thread, by going off on a tangent which took the focus somewhat off your marvelous project.

If I was prying too much inquiring about your and Shynon's model numbers, I'd sincerely like to apologize if my inquiry was deemed somewhat pushy and prosecutorial.

 

So, I hope you'll excuse me if I stepped on you toes and rained on your parade.

Please continue on as you were doing before I arrived, and I'll do my best to stay more focused and on topic.

 

btw, if you are looking for a set of hinges, there's a pair on eBay currently: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-horse-gt14-hinge-brackets-/361483534239?

 

Regards,

Steve

 

 

 

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Aldon

No worries Steve.

I am documenting the restoration/modification so that others who may want to work on their GT-14's have reference material. The tangent actually adds information on GT-14's so it's all good.

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ztnoo

Aldon,

Thanks for your understanding.

On this topic of hoods, I found some pics of a supposedly '69 hood that shows the back clips oldredrider commented on, in an eBay listing this morning.

I'm almost certain this was what he was referring to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Horse-Tractor-Mower-GT-14-Hood-/201507027070?hash=item2eeac1387e:g:9bcAAOSwHnFVqB9C

 

My front latch is like the one seen here, which is different than Shynon's pic. The mechanism on the bottom side is the same on mine, but the portion sticking above the hood looks like it accepts a slide on knob of some sort and is not like the two part shiftier handle mentioned.

 

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After closely looking at the eBay hood listing, I now note what where provisions for those back hood clips (now that I am aware of where they went). The top side actually has always had a hole through the hood, but I never really thought about why.

The other top side hole shows evidence of being filled in somehow......brazing or body filler.....I don't know what. The sides of the inside back of the hood show similar attempts at having been filled with something. On the outside those holes are covered by the decals, so they aren't noticeable at all. So it would appear my first year GT 14 had the clips originally, but at some point in time, they left the building.

My hood below:

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Edited by ztnoo
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Aldon

I determined in another thread with the help of fellow forum members that the lug bolt size in the manual is listed incorrectly. Wasted 20 dollars learning that lesson.

 

The correct size for my 3 tractors and for other owners is 9/16-18 by 1 inch full thread. (This is fine thread)

 

I decided to order longer straight bolts which I will mount from inner side and use Lug nuts to fasten rims to hub.

 

I ordered my bolts from McMaster Carr and my stainless lug nuts from Summit Racing. The nuts will contrast very nicely with the newly power coated Creme colored wheels. Now I am itching to get the rims back soon:-)

 

pic of nuts:

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Aldon

Well the fake spring weather got me fired up. Parts are arriving just in time for below zero temps which is a solid reminder that Spring is still a good ways off no matter how much I want it to be here tomorrow.

 

I received my dual gage and I test fit it in the tower I modified. Now that I have mocked it up I can go ahead and weld the triangular pieces and do the body work and paint come Spring. May decide to further tilt the angle....it would make de-install/repair a lot easier should it ever be necessary.

 

I also received the bolts for my plan to add studs and lug nuts to rear hubs. I am showing enormous restraint in not burning up phone lines to rush my Powder Coat fella. 

 

All this preparatory work will hopefully pay off in speeding the operation along come Spring so I can bring a finished project to the Big Show in June.

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Aldon

As was noted in the "What is in my mirror" thread, I went and picked up a Sickle Bar mower for the restomod and will tackle restoration once I have finished the GT14+2 beast.

 

Another GT14 hopped in the trailer so I now have another to tweak and either resell or redo. Maybe the latter as it came with snow blower and manual PTO.

reasons I decided to risk the ire of wife are that it had some items I may want to pilfer for the GT14+2. As it has manual PTO, the PTO switch is in almost mint condition. The steering wheel insert is in good condition and I will blast and refinish the inside wheel weights which will work nicely with the Rototiller attachment. And I'll snag the tiller rear hydro pulley as spare just in case. And to ice the cake, it had that elusive belt guard cover so many of these have lost over the years...

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Also managed to get some initial prep work done on engine. Trying to get head start on the warm weather. With mid June deadline I have some anxiety that I'll git'r'done in time.

 

Managed to get the old drive pulley off. Located a replacement from forum member since it had damage to one edge. Slight but as I am taking the pains to restore it, figured might as well fix an obvious sore spot.

 

I wrestled with a Briggs flywheel 2 years ago and man that almost made me give up tinkering on these tractors. But the flywheel on this K341 came off pretty easily.

 

started to pull the plate off in last pic and I need to research if there is a retaining ring or something as it does not wish to simply drop off after removing the armature windings and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine block.

 

Not a bad day considering.

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Edited by Aldon
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Shynon
3 hours ago, Aldon said:

started to pull the plate off in last pic and I need to research if there is a retaining ring or something as it does not wish to simply drop off after removing the armature windings and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine block.

The plate holds the crankshaft bearing and supports the crankshaft, it is best to disconnect the connecting rod before removing the plate. Sometimes hard to remove as the bearing is tight into the plate and tight on the crankshaft, sometimes the bearing stays on the crankshaft and sometimes it will stay in the bearing plate and sometimes the whole crankshaft will come out with the plate, hence disconnect the connecting rod.

Edited by Shynon
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Aldon

So I decided to pull the wheel weights off of what will be dubbed GT14-3 the most recent acquisition. Want to get them blasted and finished to install with the new powdercoated rims and new Tires. Hopefully I get them back from powdercoater soon. Fella is 4 weeks overdue.

 

Anyway, since I am expecting to be able to install new rims and tires on the restomod or GT14-1, I pulled the tires and rims and installed them on GT14-3. The originals on #3 are shot.

 

It was a real job getting the wheel weights off as they had rust welded together and to the backs of the rims. Then the front bearings were shot so it took great amount of effort to get the old rims off, then had to grind/polish axles a bit and viola ....it really is amazing what fresh painted rims and new rubber do for a tired tractor. I really like the look of the Vredsteins. Before and after...image.thumb.jpeg.46d3ae6554d050ea4f27f43image.thumb.jpeg.5393e9d3c7ae4d1f09cb028image.thumb.jpeg.3ee6ce041ad80f0fd9fc6ed

 

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Aldon

Got the wheels back from Powdercoat. Will try and get the tires mounted and post pics this week. Since I used the tires and rims I had initially on the project which had new bearings and seal I need to install new in these rims. I Had ordered spares of all but the seals. I may have posted this before but the bearings, race and seals info is in the snapshot below in case it can help others:

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Aldon

Warm weather and some vacation time use or lose. So I got a few things done this week.  

 

Good news - I finally got rims from powder coat.

 

Bad news - the tire monkeys tore both tubes on front rims and totally mauled the powder coat. Should have went with bright white as I could more easily match it for touch up but went with cream color. Sort of off white. Tire monkeys indicated they would fix them or replace but they have no clue that rims are not easily replaced.

 

So I had everything staged to install the wheels and weights. That's now on hold indefinitely.

 

I tried finding 4 inch 9/16-18 bolts to replace the older bolts which were banged up and rusty. Only option located was through Fastenal. They had some grade 8 bolts in California. Only 22 bucks apiece! OUCH

 

So I decided to try and refresh and recycle. Sandblasted rust off them, ran a die down the length and primed with etching primer. Figure that will suffice as they are not visible as I will be using stainless lug nuts anyway.

 

weights are ready. Bolts are ready. Engine is almost ready to mount. 

 

Everything on on hold due to tire monkeys. Impossible to move forward without the tires...Frustrated!!!!!

 

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Edited by Aldon
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dells68

Quick question - what are the two long studs on the head for?  Mine just has bolts all around.

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Aldon
18 minutes ago, dells68 said:

Quick question - what are the two long studs on the head for?  Mine just has bolts all around.

 

The K341, 16 hp, was a repower by previous owner. On the GT14, these studs were not being used. I may remove them but have not done so yet.

Edited by Aldon
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