SPINJIM 1,981 #1 Posted July 25, 2015 I'm going to take a shot at replacing the axle seals on my 1076. This may be a stupid question, but I may feel even more stupid if I don't ask it. Before I pull out the seal, should I drain all of the trans fluid from the case? If I don't drain it, should I expect to have a flood of trans fluid on my shop floor? Or, will the fluid just seep out slowly enough to get the new seal in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregg'shorses 77 #2 Posted July 25, 2015 Some will seep out , but if you jack up one side you will be okay. But for the amount of oil and the cost, you might as well change it too at the same time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,981 #3 Posted July 25, 2015 Thanks Gregg for the reply. Unfortunately, this is a hydrostatic trans that I just filled with about a gallon of fresh fluid. Since this is my first time changing a seal, and it may take awhile, I'm leaning toward draining it again. Then I'll filter the fluid as I but it back in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SgtBob 27 #4 Posted July 25, 2015 I replaced one a few months ago and was surprised how little oil drained out. Just make sure you jack up the side your replacing a bit and you should be all set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chorusguy 227 #5 Posted July 25, 2015 Truly not much will drain out. I'm scared to death of contaminating my hydro so I wouldn't reuse any fluid. You won't lose much. I had a hard time getting my seals out. Bought a seal puller and that helped. A couple of other things to think about. If your hubs have been slipping the keyway will have a little lip on the edge. You will need to file that down to get it back in plane with the rest if the axle and polish the axle with some emery cloth. I would do that first. I cleaned mine with brake cleaner when I was done. Several people recommended putting tape around the axle over the keyway before sliding the new seal into place. That burr on the keyway can damage the new seal. I used several PVC connections in series to place over the bearing and tapped in them to seat the new seal. Even when you just put the seal on it seals the axle and doesn't leak. Take the tape off Then I cleaned the axle with brake cleaner again and also ran the new key through the slot in the hub and cleaned the inside of the hub with emery cloth and brake cleaner very well before trying to re install. If the key won't move through the slot in the hub before you mount it, it sure as hell won't slide in the slot when you do try to mount itGood luck. This is very doable. Another thing. The set screw(s) should be cupped on the end that engages the key. If it isn't its holding power is diminished 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,263 #6 Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) The oil level is below the axle and whatever is on the axle was splashed there. By elevating the side you're working on just a bit you won't have any leak out. Do make sure you follow the common sense practices to protect the new seal as mentioned. Edited July 25, 2015 by Racinbob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,981 #7 Posted July 26, 2015 Thanks for all of the tips. I'll try jacking up one side of the axle to replace the seal. And thanks for the suggestions on how to prep the axle to help slide on the new seal. I'll also put a pan under the axle to catch what does drip. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
