Wet Sanding a Rattle Can Job

[boovuc 1,090]

Guys,

Anyone care to post how they have wet sanded their rattle-can paint jobs to expose a better finish on their hoods?

Using 800 to 1200 grit wet sanding and it's a slow process building a good finish!

["D"- Man 827]

It is my understanding that there is little to no hardener in the rattle can paint, which subsequently would require an extensive curing time before attempteding to sand.  I personally have not used wet sanding, but I have dry sanded over a color coat that has cured fully and had very good results, Mark.

[Coadster32 793]

I have painted a motorcylce tank with rustoleum and wet sanding, ended up at 2000 paper. Looked really dam good. It can be done, but you'll need some extra coats of paint so you don't burn thru it. Good luck. 

[Ken B 3,164]

What type of paint are you using"?

[boovuc 1,090]

Hi Guys,

Got side-tracked by a leaking toilet!
I'm using Rustolium Sunrise Red. I have wet sanded using 1200 grit twice now. First wet sand was after the 2nd coat and a two day dry. Another coat and a day drying and i did the 2nd wet sand. The first sanding removed the dimensional "specs" and after the 2nd sanding, I would say the orange peel look is 50% reduced. It's glossy but not near an automotive finish.
We have had the real cold days and dampness on top of it. The paint has been drying now for three days. I think I'll head to NAPA for some 2000 grit and some emery cloth. I wish the pollen count would go down. Even in the garage I see a light green on the tractor hoods! 
After I sand it this time, I'm going to cut down on the thickness of the coating. I guess you really need patience to do this, huh?!!! (It's a virtue I sure as heck don't possess)!
My father has to be laughing from above at this process. He was a Chevrolet bodyman and paint specialist for 45 years! Wish he was here to advise. I'm sure he would have taken over the project by now! 

[rtfbg 744]

Try a coat of this ...http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1     You'll love the finish, and you can sand / buff the next day!!!

[boovuc 1,090]

One of my last coats and the nozzle on the can screwed up and filled the top of the can with paint. It fell onto the top of the hood in huge circles of paint. The paint then started spritzing from the can. Needless to say, it hosed the finish and my afternoon. Now I wait for it to dry and somewhat cure and sand the hell out of it again. Will go with 800/1200/2000 grit with 1200 & 2000 grit wet and see what it looks like! I can't seen to win on this refresh of a tractor!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Do you have a buffer/polisher?  
Like said, get a nice layer of red laid down (no sanding or polishing needed if it lays down right) then clear coat.  Wet sand the clear to 1200 and buff with a good cutting compound then hit it once with the buffer and a polishing compound.

I think you're chasing your tail trying to sand rattle can paint to a shine.

Edited May 26, 2015 by RedRanger
spelling

[boovuc 1,090]

10-4 on the tail chasing, RedRanger! Rattle can paint is just to thin. I took an old belt guard down from the wall that needed painting anyway and stripped it and shot two coats of primer on it, waited a day then gave it three coats of Regal Red i had laying around. Waited another day which included baking it in the sun. I shot it with 5 successive coats of Krylon clear coat and I'm going to wait a few days on it to cure well then wet sand it. Just with the clear coat, I can see what your saying about not needing to try to sand the base color.
I don't have a buffer/polisher and my late father's buffer has an electrical cord that crumbles in your hand. For all the more I would use it, I may be off to Harbor Freight.

[RedRanger 1,468]

I don't do a lot of paint work so for the little that I use it, I bought a HF buffer a few years ago and a $100 spray gun from Home Depot.  Works just fine for what you or I need.  I wouldn't want to use it in a professional shop though.  As you found, if your base color is somewhat level and has only fine orange peel, the clear levels it out and you can't even see the texture of the base color.  Once you wet sand the clear smooth, the job will look like glass, be more durable than just the color coat, and have depth to the gloss.  With 5 coats of clear, you should have plenty of material to work with.  3 coats is generally enough.

I'm not sure how it went with Krylon rattle can clear, but when using a gun, the more layers of clear you lay, the more orange peel you get and the more sanding you have to do.  I've found that three layers is a good amount as long as you don't get crazy with the sanding.  Watch your sanding and buffing on outside corners and ridges.  Wet sand only until the orange peel is gone.  If you sand or buff through the clear coat and start to get color in your wet sanding, that is fine.  Just wash it clean and shoot another couple coats of clear coat, as long as you don't cut through your color, you're fine.

Like I said previously, save yourself some time and buy a good "cutting" compound to level out the fine sanding marks and then hit it with a polishing glaze to bring up the gloss shine.
I like to use Hitemp.inc Xtreme Cut HT-420 and 3M polishing glaze 05996.  Your local auto paint supply store should carry it or something comparable.
Two separate buffing pads as well.  A wool pad for the cutting and a foam pad for polishing. (wash the cutting compound off the paint before polishing)  Low RPM is your friend-about 1500 RPM-high RPM creates heat-too much heat is bad.  Take your time.

Here's a link on some good methods to use.  http://www.buffandshine.com/buffing-tips-i-11-l-en.html
And info on buffing pads.  http://www.buffandshine.com/buffing-pads-c-3-l-en.html

[rtfbg 744]

You're missin a great YouTube moment ... squirt the floor with a hose, put on some flip flops, have a few beers, grab that buffer cord, and repeat as follows:  "Hey.. hold my beer, and watch this!!"
 

[boovuc 1,090]

Thanks, Guys. I sure do appreciate the input. I'm on hold due to super high humidity. I need to spray the clear, (sounds like I'm a pro athlete taking roids), on the rest of the tins from the 417 and humidity is not what I want. I'm going to finish out the older belt-guard tomorrow night. 

[boovuc 1,090]

Gulftane......after doing all that worthless sanding of the base coat, some electro-shock therapy may be useful!

I have the hood and tub clear-coated and ready for wet sanding in a day or two. The belt guard and the little cover over the electric lift are wet sanded, had rubbing compound and polishing compound done on them, They do look real nice so I hope these big tins turn out the same.
Oh and also attached is a new seat I found for my 50 dollar "functional" 310-8 that spent 8 years outside courtesy of the previous owner. (Well right now it looks like a turd)!

 

[Coadster32 793]

Too funny on the seat!!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Let's see some pics of your hand buff job.

[boovuc 1,090]

Here you go Red Ranger! The tub was really bad, (rust and pitting), but didn't turn out bad. The hood I'm really happy with.