illinilefttackle 399 #26 Posted May 10, 2015 Butch- Had something similar happen to my C-125- I used this schematic to run down the problem- mine was a blown fuse from the positive solenoid terminal to the ignition switch- hope this might help- Thanks- Al Sorry for the poor quality Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #27 Posted May 10, 2015 Butch- Had something similar happen to my C-125- I used this schematic to run down the problem- mine was a blown fuse from the positive solenoid terminal to the ignition switch- hope this might help- Thanks- Al Sorry for the poor quality ILLINILEFTTACKLE I checked the fuses visually and with my meter. They're good. Thanks. I even have the same wiring diagram! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #28 Posted May 10, 2015 Use the test light to check each of the 5 points shown below. Each point should light your tester. You have 5 minutes.... 'case that's all it's going to take. Let us know which position# doesn't light the tester. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #29 Posted May 10, 2015 Use the test light to check each of the 5 points shown below. Each point should light your tester. You have 5 minutes.... 'case that's all it's going to take. Let us know which position# doesn't light the tester. Hey thanks Old Iron!! First thing tomorrow though. I'm heading out now for Mothers day. Thanks. Curious to what you call Upstate NY. Many people consider White Plains upstate which makes me laugh!! I consider myself from upstate. Clayton, on the St Lawrence River around 30 miles NW of Watertown. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #30 Posted May 11, 2015 Living the high life in the cow fields a fair bit west of Albany. Report back when you can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #31 Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Living the high life in the cow fields a fair bit west of Albany. Report back when you can. Butch, I think he said to "drink Miller High Life out in the cow fields, and come back with an empty can" Edited May 11, 2015 by rmaynard 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #32 Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Butch, I think he said to "drink Miller High Life out in the cow fields, and come back with an empty can" I want you to know that I used MY own glasses on this repair!! Living the high life in the cow fields a fair bit west of Albany. Report back when you can. I had a blown fuse which I remember hearing early after all this happened. 1 through 4 are good. Nothing at the battery of the ignition switch. There is power at the "ignition" and at the "rectifier" of the starter switch. Edited May 11, 2015 by Butch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #33 Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Use the test light to check each of the 5 points shown below. Each point should light your tester. You have 5 minutes.... 'case that's all it's going to take. Let us know which position# doesn't light the tester. 5 is dead. Edited May 11, 2015 by Butch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,016 #34 Posted May 11, 2015 At 2 there me corrosion preventing flow thru the wire to the ammeter. If the ammeter is still the one with the hole in it it is toast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #35 Posted May 11, 2015 At 2 there me corrosion preventing flow thru the wire to the ammeter. If the ammeter is still the one with the hole in it it is toast. I replaced the ammeter cuz the backside was toast. The post was loose as hell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,016 #36 Posted May 11, 2015 Check both sides of that fuse near the solenoid and the fuse holder as well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #37 Posted May 11, 2015 I think that when the ammeter burned up, the fuse and fuse holder bit the dust as well. If it was mine, I would replace everything highlighted in red. That would be the fuse, fuse holder, and the entire length of wire. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #38 Posted May 11, 2015 I want you to know that I used MY own glasses on this repair!! Maybe that's the problem.. I just came from my eyecare place with a new pair of glasses. I will bring the old ones to the show for you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #39 Posted May 11, 2015 I think that when the ammeter burned up, the fuse and fuse holder bit the dust as well. If it was mine, I would replace everything highlighted in red. butch_wire.jpg That would be the fuse, fuse holder, and the entire length of wire. Sorry Bob but that area is good. I had a blown fuse. Yesterday when I was wrapping up I heard a "short" but didn't see anything. Still don't know what caused the fuse to blow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #40 Posted May 11, 2015 I just got my new glasses. I read the post wrong. Let's take the ignition switch out of the equation. If you have voltage at 1 through 4, pull the connector off the back of the ignition switch and see if you have voltage at that end of the light green wire. If you don't have it there, then the path from the ammeter to the switch is compromised. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #41 Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Here's what I found. The battery wire from the ignition, which looks like the stripe is light green, goes to the coil. Nothing at either end. Can not tell where the NEG of the ammeter goes. Edited May 11, 2015 by Butch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #42 Posted May 11, 2015 There shouldn't be any wire going from the ammeter to the coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #43 Posted May 11, 2015 The only wires to the ammeter should be coming from the (+) side of the battery (at solenoid) and going to the "B" battery terminal of the ignition switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #44 Posted May 11, 2015 The only wires to the ammeter should be coming from the (+) side of the battery (at solenoid) and going to the "B" battery terminal of the ignition switch. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I corrected the post. I'm going crazy looking at wires!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #45 Posted May 11, 2015 The black and light green wire I get nothing from. It looks likes the wire runs from the battery side of the ignition to the coil. Nothing at either end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #46 Posted May 11, 2015 The red wire shown with the arrow on the back of the ammeter Goes here The green wire on the ammeter Goes here Tractor used for pictures is a B-100 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #47 Posted May 11, 2015 That schematic is different than my tractor. What is shows as Battery and Light Green is different than my tractor. The black and light pink/or purple is there and it's hot. The light green wire goes directly to the coil. Matching the switch above to the harness you need to flip the colors. My light pink/purple which I think is the ammeter is hot. If you have a spare ignition line it up with the schematic and you'll see it's reversed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,417 #48 Posted May 11, 2015 If all that is connect right, then the black wire coming out here should have 12 volts when the switch is turned to "ON". That wire goes to the ignition coil (+) side through the seat switch and PTO switch. Refresh my memory. What model tractor are we working on here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougL3 63 #49 Posted May 11, 2015 Good luck guys! I'm having the same issues on my 416-8, but I just can't get the time to work on it. I even have a dead ammeter too... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #50 Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) There's a "B" right on the ignition switch and when you push it on it's on the pink side, different from the schematic. And I have juice at that point. If you hold the plug up facing you it's correct. But to plug it in the colors and it's job get flip flopped. So if I'm getting power, what's next? I just think Old Irons schematics are great!! Good luck guys! I'm having the same issues on my 416-8, but I just can't get the time to work on it. I even have a dead ammeter too... Get your ammeter from Tractor Supply. $10. Thanks for the photos Bob. We're working an a 1983 C-85 with the 8 hp Kohler. Edited May 11, 2015 by Butch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
