rmaynard 15,417 #51 Posted May 11, 2015 I don't think we are working with the correct wiring diagram if all your colors are wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #52 Posted May 11, 2015 I hot wired the ignition switch and it fired right up along with the lights. But after putting everything together the battery has finally died. It started it once but died. It's old so I'l just go to TSC for a new one. Thanks Bob!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #53 Posted May 12, 2015 this may make it a bit easier - I might have one with the fuse holder shown too that I can post later Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #54 Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) this one is a little better Edited May 12, 2015 by Save Old Iron 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #55 Posted May 13, 2015 this one is a little better Thanks for the pics Old Iron. I'll check tomorrow. I'm also saving the pics for future use! They help tremendously!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #56 Posted May 13, 2015 (edited) Just be aware there are certain aspects of these drawings that are intentionally over-simplified. For example, the blue wire leading from the ignition switch S terminal to the starter relay is not a single uninterrupted piece of wire. Depending upon your particular model of tractor, there may be a single clutch safety switch in that line, a neutral safety switch and most likely a PTO switch too. My bottom line when I troubleshoot is to do so by FUNCTION of the wire - not necessarily by COLOR. Color co-ordination of the harness with the manual is a great gift but if you understand the function of the wire, you got the problem half fixed. Edited May 13, 2015 by Save Old Iron 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #57 Posted May 13, 2015 Just be aware there are certain aspects of these drawings that are intentionally over-simplified. For example, the blue wire leading from the ignition switch S terminal to the starter relay is not a single uninterrupted piece of wire. Depending upon your particular model of tractor, there may be a single clutch safety switch in that line, a neutral safety switch and most likely a PTO switch too. My bottom line when I troubleshoot is to do so by FUNCTION of the wire - not necessarily by COLOR. Color co-ordination of the harness with the manual is a great gift but if you understand the function of the wire, you got the problem half fixed. Those are the things I just tested and all were fine! I understood the schematic! I did get the tractor to start by hot wiring it. But I do want to see where the problem lies. Starting to look like a safety switch. By the way the ignition on that schematic has the colors wrong. They're backwards along with their function. That's the switch you're looking at. Lay the electrical connection on it and it's reversed. Appreciate your schematics with the probe though!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #58 Posted May 13, 2015 Wire color Schmire color If diagrams are colored according to op manuals, the next person I help will say the colors are not the colors in their tractor. Another person will claim their wiring is all black. A third person has hacked wires and different colors installed by a previous owner. It never ends. TROUBLESHOOT BY WIRE FUNCTION AND MARKINGS ON THE IGNITION SWITCH. If you have power up to the ignition switch, and the ignition coil is proved functional by the bypass, then the defect must be in the switch, switch terminals or the wiring to the ignition coil + terminal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #59 Posted May 13, 2015 I guess I should also ask how EXACTLY you bypassed or hot wired the ignition coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #60 Posted May 14, 2015 I guess I should also ask how EXACTLY you bypassed or hot wired the ignition coil. It was either "B" to "I" or "B" to "S". I'd have to go double check. I just ran a jumper between the two at the ignition switch. I had the help of another WH mechanic!! But I still want to continue to find the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #61 Posted May 14, 2015 Yep, based on another ignition in front of me the "B" and "I" are the same as the original schematic on page 2 which I also have. I'll double check tomorrow. Numbers 1 to 4 were fine. I'll double check 5. Now this is a new ignition that I installed and nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #62 Posted May 14, 2015 It was either "B" to "I" or "B" to "S". I'd have to go double check. I just ran a jumper between the two at the ignition switch. I had the help of another WH mechanic!! But I still want to continue to find the problem. Must be "B" to "I" "B" to "S" would run the starter constantly. If a B to I external jumper works, then either the ignition switch is bad (you checked that) or the connector terminal or wire coming out of the "I" terminal are not making contact with the ignition switch. I would pop the connector off the ignition switch, pop the "I: terminal out of the connector shell and give it a close look for corrosion inside the terminal or a bad crimp / corrosion where the wire attaches to the terminal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites