Butch 194 #1 Posted May 7, 2015 I get nothing when I turn the key. Even the lights won't come on in the *on* position. Starter switch? What a stinkin coincidence. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,745 #2 Posted May 7, 2015 Good battery? Corroded battery cables? Check ALL wiring connections....EVERYTHING, starting from the battery cables.. The headlights shoulb be fused...check that too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #3 Posted May 7, 2015 Did you disengage the PTO? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #4 Posted May 7, 2015 (edited) Been there, done that... More than I care to remember. EDIT: didnt see you mention the lights. They aren't controlled by the safety switch. Edited May 7, 2015 by bmsgaffer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,016 #5 Posted May 7, 2015 Ck the ammeter connections if there is one on it. Seen it a bunch! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muz123 1,191 #6 Posted May 8, 2015 Battery or Fuse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #7 Posted May 8, 2015 Did you disengage the PTO? Yep yep! Thanks! Been there, done that... More than I care to remember. EDIT: didnt see you mention the lights. They aren't controlled by the safety switch. The lights make me think it's the switch. I have had a switch go bad a year ago. I never thought they went bad! Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #8 Posted May 8, 2015 My meter shows the battery has 12.5 volts of juice. No lights. The lights are independent from the rest of the tractor and they don't come one. They even have a lighted switch and no luck. The fuse is good. All this from running out of gas???????????? Battery or Fuse. Both are good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougL3 63 #9 Posted May 8, 2015 I have the same problem with my 416-8. Luckily, I don't have enough hair to pull any out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #10 Posted May 8, 2015 Ck the ammeter connections if there is one on it. Seen it a bunch! Squonk bad corrosion. Big hole melted through the gauge and melted the bracket in half. Wonder what caused this? I have the same problem with my 416-8. Luckily, I don't have enough hair to pull any out! Wow! Is this the place the Doobie brothers were singing about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,016 #11 Posted May 8, 2015 Bad corrosion = high resistance= High amperage = hole blown through meter. Chalk up another one for the old timer squonk! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #12 Posted May 8, 2015 Ammeter had a hole burned in it from the negative side. New ammeter installed. Still no difference. No crank. No lights. This crap sucks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,016 #13 Posted May 8, 2015 All that current that burned tru the meter may have made it thru to the switch and the harness for that matter. The starter current more than likely got high with all that resistance and melted a few more things Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,745 #14 Posted May 8, 2015 Open safety switch...somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #15 Posted May 9, 2015 Open safety switch...somewhere. I don't think a safety switch would stop the lights from working. All that current that burned tru the meter may have made it thru to the switch and the harness for that matter. The starter current more than likely got high with all that resistance and melted a few more things Thanks for the good news!!!!!!!! Should I jack up the seat and drive a new tractor under it??????? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #16 Posted May 9, 2015 Butch, what model tractor are we dealing with? Do you have a voltmeter or test light we can work with? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #17 Posted May 9, 2015 Butch do you have incoming power to the ignition switch? Brian 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #18 Posted May 9, 2015 Butch, what model tractor are we dealing with? Do you have a voltmeter or test light we can work with? Old Iron It's an 83 C-85 8 speed. I own one of those Klein meters and it should probably be illegal for me to own it. I'm very dumb when it comes to electrics. I also own one of those pokers with a wire that has the handle light up. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #19 Posted May 9, 2015 Butch do you have incoming power to the ignition switch? Brian Brian there is power to the "I" only on the switch. But the way I test it with a meter set to buzzer. With one lead to the negative side of the battery and the other to the "I" the buzzer goes off. It does it in "off" and "on". With one lead on positive I get nothing at all. HOWEVER when I use a probe the handle lights up only when connected to the POS of the battery and only to the "I". Nothing goes to the other posts. So yes, I have power. Appreciate your help. I still can't get over running out of gas left me with this. Of course it didn't cause it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #20 Posted May 9, 2015 I had to take my ignition switch off and clean the terminals because when I turned the key I was getting nothing and the lights weren't even coming on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #21 Posted May 9, 2015 I think you are checking continuity with the buzzer sounding when you are using the probe with the light bulb inside one lead goes to ground always and you use the other lead to check for voltage at the terminal wish you lived closer Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #22 Posted May 10, 2015 I'll see if I can check the voltage at the terminal. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,029 #23 Posted May 10, 2015 Sounds like the points are in the closed position which is grounding the I terminal on the ignition switch. This would be correct using the continuity buzzer of the meter. Try your test light on both terminals of the ammeter. They both should be alive all the time. If only the battery side has power the shunt in the ammeter has failed. If that is the case you can disconnect the battery negative cable for safety reasons and then connect both wires to one terminal on the ammeter. Then reconnect the negative battery cable. That should get you running but the ammeter won't work. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #24 Posted May 10, 2015 I had to take my ignition switch off and clean the terminals because when I turned the key I was getting nothing and the lights weren't even coming on I put a new switch in it. Still nothing. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #25 Posted May 10, 2015 Sounds like the points are in the closed position which is grounding the I terminal on the ignition switch. This would be correct using the continuity buzzer of the meter. Try your test light on both terminals of the ammeter. They both should be alive all the time. If only the battery side has power the shunt in the ammeter has failed. If that is the case you can disconnect the battery negative cable for safety reasons and then connect both wires to one terminal on the ammeter. Then reconnect the negative battery cable. That should get you running but the ammeter won't work. Garry Garry I put a new ammeter in since the other one had a hole melted into it plus the corrosion was bad. Made no difference. I'll look at the points but that shouldn't have any affect on the lights should it? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
