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Similar Content
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By davem1111
I have this 520-8 that needs some love and restoration expertise, and I don't have the time or gumption to take on this project and give it the TLC it deserves. Local pickup near Bloomington, IN only.... (almost - I might be able to meet somewhere but not too far, and I don't have a trailer.)
The Onan P220 runs, but not well. I repaired the seal on the intake manifold, replaced the carb & spark plugs, adjusted valve clearance, and tried adjusting the governor, but it still surges. It has the swept front axle but does not have reduction steering. As far as I know, all is original, and the hour meter is at 610.
Several attachments could be included in the deal if desired, for a bit extra. Either a 60" SD or 48" SD deck, single stage snowblower, and/or snow plow blade (would need to get extension kit for front wheel clearance).
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By Bill D
I have had and seen couple of 8 speeds with bent, scraped any broken dipsticks. The broken ones look like they got cut off. What are they hitting inside the tranny and how do I prevent it? Thanks. Bill
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By Horse Digger
Ok, so I've found out just where the oil is leaving the transmission on my C120 8 speed from around 1974.
Removed the brake "drum" and discovered a thin ring around the axle, is this part of the seal and can this be replaced without tearing the whole transmission?
I found several posts & youtube videos about replacing axle seals, but none about the brake axle seal...
Since this is the lowest axle, the oil-level is to low to determine if axle seals are bad too...
I'm uncertain of what transmission I've got so trying to find the manual for it has been hard, someone who can help?
Yanking the axel I can just about feel a play, is this OK, or should I replace the bearing too?
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By Ryder
Would someone be able to measure the length of or even take a picture of the last couple inches of 416-8 uni-drive transmission dipstick? I jacked and drained tranny, just a little more than 3 qts, flushed with diesel, and serviced with 2 qts of Lucas 80W-90. Nothing on the stick. The stick ends right after the PN 106447, may be broken off perfectly smooth, and has always been that way since I bought 5-6 years ago. I noticed it but didn't think much about it due to an inch of fluid being on the stick when you checked the level, the extra 1+ qt of oil. Assumed the top of PN on stick must be full line. The oil I drained looked fine, just a little fine metal flake from the oops's over the years from accidental grind and go's (or remains of the missing dipstick?). No appearance of water contamination. I changed the fluid due to a low whine I can't say I noticed over the years or at least it sounds a little louder if was present before. No change in whine after oil change either. Just over 450hrs on it so maybe just "broken-in" whine? Bought with 225 hrs on it from a local old timer Cub Cadet restorer who had changed all the fluids before selling it for a friend. Just to note, the whine has a bit of a hydro tranny noise to it. The higher the range, gear, and speed the louder it is, no whine in neutral. Not too concerned about the whine, just have nothing to compare to. The other 416 is an H to push around the two-stage blower, which I bought together this March. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the hydro compared to the -8 though. Love the -8, hydro is a bit sketchy to operate and drinks gas. May need to buy the pedal control kit I see posted here. Thanks up front for any help guys. Maybe my first post but you all have already helped me quite a bit with your experience and knowledge reading the old posts over the years. Great site.
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By WH 312-8 Fan
So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good?
I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together?
See that attached photos for a bit more clarity.
Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well.
Thanks for any help!
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