OhioGuy89 4 #1 Posted April 1, 2015 Hi folks, after 1500 hours and 23 years, the Onan P220G on my 520-H has bitten the dust. I'm in the process now of getting ready to take it off the frame. I would rebuild it, but I don't have the time nor the skills,and I can get a new engine for cheaper than a rebuild kit. With that, has anyone put a new engine on a 520-H? If so, which one, and how was the experience? Anyone have any reccomendations? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #2 Posted April 1, 2015 So what did you find wrong? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #3 Posted April 1, 2015 I'm not sure yet. Still can't get that flywheel on right, and it's leaking oil from the new filter housing I got, so I've just decided to bite the bullet. I don't have a lot of time before I need yo start using it again. And it's either new engine or a tractor from Home Depot ( shudder) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #4 Posted April 1, 2015 You can slap any Kohler on there. a 16hp would be the best Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #5 Posted April 1, 2015 Ok. I was looking at kohler. Why not a 20hp like the on an is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #6 Posted April 1, 2015 You can, and it will be a direct swap, but you asked what new motor to put on it. Any motor will work if you have the time and know how to put it together. So did you even check the old motor for compression, or are just jumping around with no direction? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #7 Posted April 1, 2015 I found my compression test kit, but I don't think there is a way to get a good reading with the engine crank only being able to be turned over by hand Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #8 Posted April 2, 2015 Here are some possibilities for you: A Kohler KT17 or KT19 Series II motor with a 2.75 to 3.5 inch shaft/inch and an eighth in diameter and quarter-inch key. Only a Series II motor. These are old and getting pretty scarce in good working order! A Kohler Magnum 18 or 20 with a 2.75 to 3.5 inch shaft/inch and an eighth in diameter and quarter-inch key. A lot of Cub Cadets came with a magnum engine and shared the same specs. Some Wheelhorses too. A Kohler Command in 18+ HP. Same specs as above new or used BUT the PTO isn't going to be in the exact spot that the Magnum is in. (The Magnum mimics the Kohler KT 17 & 19 that Wheelhorse used). A Briggs Vanguard 16 to 23 HP. Same specs as above new or used. Several members have done this swap. The PTO needs to be aligned to the factory position. See this repower link using a Briggs Vanguard at 23 horsepower: http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/386447-WH520H-R1.html?sc=17&category=1711100 The Honda GX series with a 20HP/same specs as above new or used. Again, a few members have done this swap. The PTO needs to be aligned to the factory position. The Harbor Freight Honda GX clone new with the above specs. (Just not certain about how dependable these China-clones are). The PTO needs to be aligned to the factory position. Kohler K-series 16 horse only from a Wheelhorse or same specs as WH. Buy a used lower hour Onan P Series or the B48's that preceded the P series engines. The older Onans will also require modifications. Only the WH Onan P-Series will bolt on and wire up to everything that is on the tractor now. You will lose some gauge functionality with other motors. Some of the idiot lights will also not function. Other mods will ultimately need done too. Think of the muffler positions, engine pan mounts, choke and throttle linkages, etc. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #9 Posted April 2, 2015 If I were limited with time I would not attempt a repower. I would buy another used 520 or used engine and sell what you have to recover some off the loss. JMHO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #10 Posted April 2, 2015 Limited time, you can find a good running whole 520/518/416 with an onan for the same money and either part the rest to get some money back or have a spare parts tractor. No doubt in my mind this would be the way to go. For that matter with minimal effort (a little wiring) you can swap any engine on there from any post 1970 wheel horse you find in good running order. I would just stick to 14+ HP if you can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #11 Posted April 2, 2015 It sounds like a good idea. Any idea where to look? EBay turned up nothing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #12 Posted April 2, 2015 Where in ohio are you? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #13 Posted April 2, 2015 I'm in Northeast Ohio. Medina county Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #14 Posted April 2, 2015 I would put a wanted ad up here. There's lots of guys here from PA and also from the western side of northern OH that I think would have an engine on the shelf (maybe that you could even drop in). Depending on what you can spend there may be something on craigslist. (dont forget that you will be reselling what you dont want/need as far as attachments). i'll PM ya. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #15 Posted April 2, 2015 Oh and you will have to swap your drive pulley on to the engine if you pickup one from an 8 speed. If you get from a hydro you are fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #16 Posted April 2, 2015 Before I would pronounce the engine dead, I would take the heads off and turn it over by hand. If the valve seats are all secure and the pistons and valves move properly then the internals are probably fine. The typical internal failures are loose valve seats and broken rods. If the engine was not smoking before it stopped running and if the oil has been changed on a regular basis the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls should be fine. I would then determine if there is a fuel delivery or electrical problem. We can walk you through the trouble shooting procedures if you were interested in doing that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slovinski 42 #17 Posted April 3, 2015 I would have the sk486 from bowtie being delivered today, then tinker, fix, or sell the 520. Thats just me though, wish you luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red-Bovine 322 #18 Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) I repowered my 520H with a Honda GX630 kit from Repower Specialists. Their kit is pricey, but includes all the parts necessary to convert, including wiring. Everything works as original except the tachometer. I used a mini tach to check the governor speed and don't mind missing the tach. The only thing necessary to do is a small welding job for the clutch bracket on the engine. They include an adapter mounting plate and a sleeve for the clutch to convert from the Honda 1" shaft to 1-1/8". We have run the Honda for two years without a problem. It took less than two days to convert. I was not completely happy with the supplied muffler, not having a heat shield, so I replaced it with a Honda muffler. I needed to trim the hood a bit for the fit, but it works better and is quieter. http://www.repowerspecialists.com/ Red Edited April 3, 2015 by Red-Bovine 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #19 Posted April 4, 2015 That Honda looks very nice on that 520. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #20 Posted April 5, 2015 First off, Happy Easter to those that celebrate it! As for what progress I've made, I took the head off the front cylinder and rotated the crank. The cylinder moved fine, valves and all, so I know that one is fine. Now, I have to find a way to get the head off the back cylinder, which will be more difficult since it is cramped for space. Any advice on that one? Here is a pic of the front cylinder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,553 #21 Posted April 5, 2015 Now, I have to find a way to get the head off the back cylinder, which will be more difficult since it is cramped for space. Any advice on that one? Since you might be tossing the motor anyway....unbolt it from the frame and spin it around so you can easily wrench on it. Mike....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #22 Posted April 5, 2015 Since you might be tossing the motor anyway....unbolt it from the frame and spin it around so you can easily wrench on it. Mike....... X2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 39,285 #23 Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) Why are you replacing or rebuilding this engine. So far you have stated two problems. A bad oil filter base gasket...about a $4.00 fix. A flywheel that you are having trouble installing. Can you give us more details. Why did you remove the flywheel? Did it quit running due to no spark or no fuel? Was it smoking before it quit? BTW, it is tight, but it is possible to remove the rear head with the engine in place. I decarbed both cyls on my 220 w/o unbolting the engine from the frame. Edited April 6, 2015 by ekennell 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,682 #24 Posted April 9, 2015 HI--if you go to small engine warehouse they sell a complete kit engine and all to drop a Briggs (maybe others??? too) right in place... I don't know what your thinking of $$$ wise... it just popped in my head... http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/Repower-Old-Equipment/Wheel-Horse-520H-Category/ Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OhioGuy89 4 #25 Posted April 17, 2015 Wonderful news! After months of work, I finally got it running last night:D the loose flywheel just needed a washer to secure it on. I'm so happy lol. Now, I just have to work with the throttle. When I got it to fire, it was wide open, even though the throttle lever wasn't 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
