meadowfield 2,619 #1 Posted March 27, 2015 Some of you may remember me acquiring the engine for bendy from a Toro greensmaster mower at Mallory park a year ago. It was well used and cheap at £50... It started and runs ok, but it's clear it needs some attention due to the oil burned and dripped on the floor. When I pulled the head last year it looked like this! And upon changing the oil I got this! So armed with the knowledge it runs ok, but is a little tired I ordered a rebuild kit from the states. It was better value than from the UK - even including shipping and tax. I basically got everything but the valves. So here's the thread, with the engine starting on the bench With tinwork and ancillaries removed Flywheel removed - after make a small puller And head.... It's not got any better since I last checked! Upon removing the piston... The piston and rings look reasonable, but closer inspection shows heavy scoring and erosion due to being coked up. I thought it was oil ring stuck to the plug, but apparently not. From the bottom end, some light scoring on the big end journal. It's 4 thou out of round and 6 thou out at its maximum. Just within acceptable tolerances for what I'll be using it for. Pic shows cam to left and balance gear to right, which will be coming out. I dislike the rattle from it! Here's the crank and cam out... the infamous balance gears - which run on small needle bearings - same as the high low idler in an 8 speed! They are incredibly loose - I'd say the bearings were shot! after a good degrease, the valves were lapped - both in pretty good shape. Probably the gallons of oil that have been through them! them the bore was honed, again it's in great shape at the top but a little worn where the oil rings have been. a little light scoring cam back in place, note the timing mark - and the ACR lobe to the right - it's a little worn but still functional! Also the two pins to the left where the balance gears lived crank back in and timing marks aligned new head gasket Head on and torqued up! I filled the engine with oil tonight and will hopefully fire it up tomorrow, letting it get to temperature then drop the oil after 30 mins or so to flush out any debris (shouldn't be any, but always worthwhile) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,586 #2 Posted March 27, 2015 Well documented! Awful short crank shaft eh? Good luck on the test run . Mike........ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boovuc 1,090 #3 Posted March 28, 2015 I couldn't do it! I would need to fire it up right after I got the oil back in it. I would have a restless night! Thanks for posting this with the details! Let us know how she runs! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,619 #4 Posted March 28, 2015 Well, I turned it over for 30 seconds with the plug out to make sure fuel was through and splash the oil about a bit. Put the plug in, and it fired straight up :D 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,619 #6 Posted April 2, 2015 Of course Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 263 #7 Posted April 12, 2015 Thanks for the video. How does it sound throttled up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,619 #8 Posted April 12, 2015 sounds ok - not really revved it yet, trying to let it run in a little. I also don't like revving them for fun. I've set the governor at around 2500 for the moment too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #9 Posted April 13, 2015 I am guessing you mean that the crankpin was .0004" out of round? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,619 #10 Posted April 13, 2015 I am guessing you mean that the crankpin was .0004" out of round? yup - in the UK, we generally refer to it as a "big end" as it is the big end of the connecting rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,619 #11 Posted September 15, 2015 *updateThe engine has done two hours, so barely run in and it's got a very pronounced knock My assumption that it would be fit for purpose was wrong - it didn't actually knock before, but had poor compression and oil everywhere!So before I break it, it has been removed for another rebuild - we crank pin re-grind to 0.010 or possibly 0.020 depending on the damage in it's place is a k341 from my C-161, shame it's not a straight swap. The starter motor is lower and clashes with the battery tray. The throttle/choke mounts are different and I've no +12V to the coil because the magnum uses a wire to kill the spark... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
