Pullstart 63,200 #1 Posted March 23, 2015 So one of my roll pins came loose on my lower steering shaft this weekend and I lost all steering other than my feet pushing the tires to the left and right until I could park my 502. I was looking at the roll pin service bulletin here, wonder if using a 1/4-20 bolt with a smooth shaft might work. Has anyone tried it either way on an old horse? Would there be any interference of the bolt head or a lock-nut anywhere? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #2 Posted March 23, 2015 Why not use another roll pin? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,200 #3 Posted March 23, 2015 another 1/4" pin? it seems time for improvement rather than just replacement of what is there, I have plenty of steering slop that could be a big help to reduce. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,133 #4 Posted March 23, 2015 Plus you could likely drive a 2nd pin inside the first. If the hole is worn even the slightest think I would clamp all the pieces so they could not move and drill it twice. 9/32" and then 5/16" If using a bolt you need to cut a slit in the collar so the bolt can colapse the eye tight on the shaft. Then use a grade 8 bolt and nut torqued to the maximum. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse79 271 #5 Posted March 23, 2015 I had the same problem with my 854, seems to be endemic with the round hoods. I had a welder weld the steering sector to the shaft so that it would never loosen up again. That fix took out about 80% of the steering slop. The rest is in the front ball joints in the steering linkage which I will take care of someday. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,200 #6 Posted March 23, 2015 I had the same problem with my 854, seems to be endemic with the round hoods. I had a welder weld the steering sector to the shaft so that it would never loosen up again. That fix took out about 80% of the steering slop. The rest is in the front ball joints in the steering linkage which I will take care of someday. good idea, is the steering sector cast iron or cast steel? I suppose if I were to re-bush or add a carriage bearing to the steering shaft it wouldn't need to come apart again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,293 #7 Posted March 23, 2015 As Garry mentioned, use a 5/16" roll pin and drive a 3/16" inside it. Service Bulletin #62 addressed this. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,200 #8 Posted March 23, 2015 Ok, I understand now - to expand the 5/16 and prevent it from crushing to create slop.. thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,133 #9 Posted March 25, 2015 As Garry mentioned, use a 5/16" roll pin and drive a 3/16" inside it. Service Bulletin #62 addressed this. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,637 #10 Posted March 25, 2015 (edited) I did as the bulletin prescribed on my 704 and replaced my tie rods with custom spherical rod ends. Drives like a new car without the cheap plastic smell! Edited March 25, 2015 by squonk 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,909 #11 Posted March 25, 2015 Just so you know...a 1/4" bolt will work with no interference...if you do not have any threads sticking out of the nut. Did this on my 702 as a temporary fix until I could do the double roll pin thingy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,988 #12 Posted March 25, 2015 I had that problem once with most of tractors I have . I bought some different type of roll pin from McMaster Carr ( military grade ??) and never had an issue again . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,293 #13 Posted March 25, 2015 I had that problem once with most of tractors I have . I bought some different type of roll pin from McMaster Carr ( military grade ??) and never had an issue again . Good point. I bought one of those gazillion packs from Harbor Freight and they were extremely soft as roll pins go. They were cheap but still not worth the money. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,200 #14 Posted March 26, 2015 I had that problem once with most of tractors I have . I bought some different type of roll pin from McMaster Carr ( military grade ??) and never had an issue again . Are they the pins that wrap inside each other like a spring in a way? I picked up an assortment of 4 sizes the other day and can't wait for the time to try them out! I grabbed one set just bigger than 1/4" that I'm hoping I might be able to press through with a c-clamp - otherwise I've got a new lithium ion Milwaukee drill that would love to come out and play. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,133 #15 Posted March 26, 2015 There are 2 types of roll pins and often see them misnamed. A split roll pin is a single roll of spring steel. A spiral roll pin is multiple turns of a lighter gauge of spring steel. Look at the end of them to determine the type. The ones that are doubled up for added strength are the split pins. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve k 82 #16 Posted March 26, 2015 Exactly what I was thinking Garry. I dont see many "true" roll pins anymore however. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,988 #17 Posted March 31, 2015 Here is a link to the ones I got. I have the extra strenght steel and the black steel military spec ones. Never had to replace any again. http://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=wji1ng------------coiled spring pins http://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=wji0eg---------------military spec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,200 #18 Posted March 31, 2015 yeah I used the coiled springs and it still seemed to tighten things up a bit. I think the left side spindle needs to be drilled out because the steering arm seems to be smaller diameter than the spindle.. so there is still slop with a larger pin. driving the pin into the sector shaft from underneath went a bit easier when I used a 1/4" extension to hold the pin and drive it with the hammer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites