318 8spd Transaxle problems?

[Texis 4]

First post guys... be easy.

 

I have a 318 8spd with a screwed up transaxle. It appears that the shift forks are damaged, broken. The shifter will not engage any of the gears, just sits there in neutral. I am the original owner, purchased new in 2000. I have had no trouble with the transaxle since new and it gets a work out down here on the Gulf Coast. Cuts and acre a week, 9 months out of the year. Engine still runs strong.

 

Being a fairly decent mechanic, it looks like I will need to separate the cases to get to the problem. I believe I can tackle the work, BUT I think it would be much easier to find a replacement transaxle, as replacing it seems easier than going into it. Suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Before you tear it all apart, pop off the SHIFT PLATE and have a look at the shift lever.

If it flops around freely, the end of it MAY be broken off, or it MAY have come loose from its pivoit point, being the DOG POINT SCREW. Can you lift the lever up out of the trans? If so, then it MAY not be the shift forks but something simpler, like a broken DOG POINT. Here are a few pics to help:

[Texis 4]

Thanks, I didn't realize the shift lever came out without splitting the case. If the end is broken off, can the ball end be removed and another shifter installed? I will go have a look.

 

Thanks

Edited March 1, 2015 by Texis

[Texis 4]

YES, it lifts right out of the trans. The shift lever is in good condition, looks fine. But it lifted out without having to remove/loosen the retaining bolt.

[pfrederi 17,885]

THen your dog point set screw is broken or missing.  Hopefully the dog point end didn't fall into the tranny.  Toro has them and so do good hardware stores.  (1/4 20tpi) You also need a nut to use as a jam nut .Thread it in by hand until it seats in the small hole on the gearshift lever donut.  The back off a 1/8 turn and tighten the jam nut.

Edited March 1, 2015 by pfrederi

[Texis 4]

CORRECTION (for accuracy) I have  "314" 8 spd..

 

So if I replace the set screw & jam nut it should shift properly? I assume mine is not the first Wheel Horse to experience this, is it common?

 

AND if the set screw end fell into the tranny.. maybe nothing for years...and maybe mass destruction in 5 minutes lol.

[pfrederi 17,885]

Yes make sure the forks are aligned for neutral as in picture above.  Ball on end of shifter should be round not worn flat on the sides.  Hopefully screw just backed out a bit and lost contact with shifter.  If you think part fell inside drain tranny and flush with diesel. Raise front of tractor so fluid and junk clear th bump in the middle of the tranny case.  also consider a magnetic drain plug

 

 

[Racinbob 11,232]

Most likely Texis as long as your shifter is OK. That 'donut' where the setscrew runs in to is either welded in place or has a roll pin. Align the forks so they look like the bottom right picture Dave posted. That's the neutral position. Make sure the setscrew runs in to the little hole on the donut. Adjust as Dave said and you should be good to go. This is a common problem on Wheel Horses but a simple fix.

[Racinbob 11,232]

Oh yea, where is the original setscrew. It's not likely it went in the transmission but it's possible. The thought of that would bug me until I found out for sure.

Sorry pfrederi. I was typing at the same time and repeated you.

[JC 1965 1,530]

[Texis 4]

Found some damage. The set screw is fine.. but there is a small pin that runs through the shift lever, into both sides of the pivot ball which is sheared. Good news is all pieces are accounted for! Any ideas on sourcing one of those tiny little pins? Our regional Toro dealer is marginal at best.

 

Need to run down a shifter weather boot as well, old one is disintegrated.

Edited March 1, 2015 by Texis

[Racinbob 11,232]

Head to your local hardware store. They should carry a roll pin in the size you need. Toro still has shifter boots or you can hit up Ebay.

[Texis 4]

The pin that sheared was solid, I would hate to replace with a roll pin. I have had bad luck in the past replacing solid pins with rolled pins. Anyone have an exploded view of this thing with part numbers? The local Toro guys could order by PN (I would hope!)

 

Thanks, you guys have already saved me big $$$$ and this site encourages me to bring the old girl back up to snuff   I always liked that machine.

[stevasaurus 22,868]

I have to ask... is the doughnut loose on the shaft?  That pin does not go all the way through to the other side...so as to leave a place for the Dog Point set screw to enter and hold the doughnut in place.    Plus, your horse is new enough, I wonder if that pin is sheared.  Take a good look at it...it is more likely that the dog point is broke off.  Toro is the best place to get the boots...they are only about $6.00.

 

I did find a number for that pin in a shifter...but it is not for your trans...but it may be the same.  This is for a 3 piece transmission, but I think the shift doughnuts are the same through out the Wheel Horse stick shift transmissions.  That pin # is Wheel Horse # 933168..it says Roll Pin 5/32 x 13/16.  Hope that helps.

Edited March 1, 2015 by stevasaurus

[pfrederi 17,885]

I looked at a couple of shifters I have lying about.  The donuts were welded to the shaft.  They are older and i do not know why WH changed to a pin system.  I do not see why welding isn't an option.  Just make sure the donut is at the right height and the hole faced the bend in the shifter handle.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

933168 roll pin for the shifter donut 5/32" x 13/16"
Replaced by Toro 32121-114 spirol pin

 

 

Garry

[rlrnot 39]

I had the same problem twice. The first time I replaced the roll pin and the second time I welded the collar to the shifter lever.  Haven't had a problem since.

[Texis 4]

Yes, the shaft fits correctly in the donut. The set screw end is fine, the pin broke leaving some of it stuck in the shifter, and two additional pieces in both sides of the donut. I would say it's abut .125" dia. The piece in the shifter had to be driven out.

 

I'm breaking out the welder. Nice to know some of them came welded and that's an option.

[pfrederi 17,885]

FYI  The welded ones I looked at were only welded on the top about halfway around the donut,

[doc724 925]

Do NOT weld the donut to the shaft!.  While it was ok on the older models, the newer ones have a  magnet pinned on the shift rod that interfaces with a microswitch under the transaxle tunnel.  (so you can only start the machine in neutral).  On the older machines, you can slide a new shift boot over the shift rod from the top down.  On the newer ones, you either have to remove the magnet (and risk breaking it since it is held on with two really small roll pins) or force the boot over it and risk tearing up the boot.  I put mine on by removing the donut and sliding the boot up the shaft, reinstalling the donut, and then reinstalling the shifter into the transaxle. 

 

A word about roll pins...the are two types, a Spirol pin which is rolled up into a spiral and is the stronger of the two types and a split roll pin, the more common type.  In either case, there should not be any load on the pin that would cause it to shear.

 

I think the real problem you had was that the set screw backed out and cause the problem (happened to me the first time in a snow storm).  Get a new dog point set screw and a jam nut.  Put some blue loctite on both of them and reassemble.  Do not screw the set screw in so tight that the shifter will not move (or only moves with difficulty).  If this happens, back off the set screw by 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

 

Of course, if you do weld the donut on, you can always bypass the starting safety switch.  Not recommeded, but many folks do this.  That is also why you see many machines with dented hoods

[pfrederi 17,885]

Interesting I wonder why they would have gone to a more complex method.  I don't have any new enough to have that issue.

[doc724 925]

Paul,

 

My guess is that Microswitch and magnet costs way less than the older lockout switch. (Microswitch-a Honeywell trademark- is made by the tens of millions, where the older switches, even the Cherry switches, (the white plastic ones) were bigger and more costly.  Also, making a weld requires a skilled human to fixture the two parts and then weld by hand.  Drilling a hole in the donut and driving in a roll pin can be performed by less skilled workers.

[baerpath 517]

The shifter boot can be found at tractor supply places. Same boot a Massey 165 uses for the high low

[Texis 4]

All OEM wires and switches on the little tractor have been gone for 10 years. I pulled 30ft of wires and bunches of switches out and replaced with 8ft of wire, 1 toggle and a push button. I started having wiring and switch issues about 5 yrs after I bought it. Did I mention the machine sits outside year round and we average 55" of rain a year. I used marine grade wiring, shrink wrap, toggle and push button. The wiring has been trouble free ever since.

The set screw was still in place, and the shift lever pulled up through the donut, as the pin was sheared. I had to back the set screw out to get the donut out, gave the screw a very close examination... it's fine with no sign of wear. The jam nut was still very tight, locked against the casting.

I think the way to go is as has been suggested, stab a new pin in the shaft-donut to get the correct location and alignment, then weld it. I'm a decent welder and once the parts are clean (grease free) it should be an simple weld.

Thanks guys for all the inputs!

[groundhog47 347]

 to  , there ate quite a few Tejas folk on here, nearest   Houston? , Pflugerville, and Center; a few La folk (couple just east of ya) and myriads of others.

Ya'll find the most knowledgeable, helpful guys this side of the original engineers of WH  .

 

Wasn't aware that ball pinned, all mine appear welded at top front approx. 1/2 way around. But if end ball is good and donut good you are in not so bad shape. Best case find a pin; moderate case, temp with nail (if broken pin completely out for ref position) in prop position weld top front and discard nail; worst case search for shifter on here (vendors section/Kelly, wanted ads, or auction site) 

 

Off topic but East Texas Tractor Show, Canton, April (a few WH, rest big boys)

Edited March 4, 2015 by groundhog47