Wheel Horse Collector 47 #1 Posted February 7, 2015 Ok this is just an idea. I have this 1056 and the connecting rod to the piston broke and screwed up the piston So I was thinking about boring it out and making it into a pulling tractor. Is that a good idea. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #2 Posted February 8, 2015 I don't know about pulling with it... but, it would make for an awesome candidate to get up and running again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #3 Posted February 8, 2015 You can make a "pulling tractor" out of most of these tractors, but they might not be very competitive. You're only going to be able to bore the engine .030 over and unless you do a lot more work to it, it will still only be 10hp. By the time you're done spending money to get 14 or 15 horsepower, you can probably buy a 14 or 16 horsepower stock engine that's running & still bolted to a tractor with an 8 pinion / 8 speed transaxle ~ which is proven to be the best stock tranz for pulling. The current condition of the three speed transmission and your ability to drive will determine how long it will be until it breaks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtstraw 16 #4 Posted February 8, 2015 When I build a 12hp sport stock motor I start with a 10hp block and offset bore it towards the valves and sleeve it. Then do some trick work to the head to really tighten up the combustion chamber. Works out well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #5 Posted February 8, 2015 .........I start with a 10hp block and offset bore it towards the valves and sleeve it......... Why? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #7 Posted February 8, 2015 OK, but why do you move the bore centerline towards the valves? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtstraw 16 #8 Posted February 8, 2015 To tighten up the combustion chamber, which increases the compression ratio. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtstraw 16 #9 Posted February 9, 2015 I used to pull stock altered and had a motor built for me by an engine builder in Illinois. The valves were very close to the cylinder bore and it made a bunch of hp. Of course these are aftermarket blocks where you have to put all the holes in it. Bore and valves so kind of doing the same thing making a 12 out of a 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #10 Posted February 9, 2015 You could use aftermarket blocks in stock-altered? They'd never allow that around here. I'm not sure why you'd want to limit the size of the valves by the bore proximity, but it's your story. My point was that the early 241 used in the 1056 above is a thinwall casting. They are already prone to splitting across the top between the bore and the valve pockets. They are not a good candidate for exotic machine work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtstraw 16 #11 Posted February 10, 2015 We use the cub cadet blocks. We have done several of them around here. In sport stock we were limited to stock valve size in stock location. Stock altered has to use stock valve size any location just have to maintain the 11 degree angle. Not until you get into prostock can you run any size valve you want to stuff in the block. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites