Butch 194 #51 Posted December 30, 2014 Brian, This knob is very hard. There is no flexibility to it. I can't get even the smallest jewelers screwdriver between the plastic and the shaft. Since I have the hoodstand off the tractor and on the bench, I have it positioned now with the bottom of the handle pointing up. I have placed a few drops of PB Blaster around the shaft, and it disappeared. So that means it is migrating down between the shaft and the knob. After I get more Blaster to soak in, I will try what Martin suggested. I'd like to salvage the knob since they are no longer available from Toro. Anyway to soak it in hot water and I do mean hot. Maybe a torch to heat the water. Okay, so I got it off. First of all, do not try to twist it. The shaft has a flat side about 2-1/2" long inside the knob, and the knob is molded with a flat side on the inside. I got PB Blaster to soak in, and it softened the glue on the strip of double-sided tape that was applied to the flat on the shaft. Then I took an old adjustable wrench and placed it around the shaft and under the bottom edge of the knob. Then I tapped the wrench. The knob moved, so I kept on tapping until it was off. Glad I could help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #52 Posted December 30, 2014 Bob, here is the way to get this knob off (and back on). I know you already got it off, but for others.... Take a face cloth and put it in hot (not quite boiling water). Take it out of the water and wrap it around the knob. Leave it there for 20-30 seconds and give the knob a small rap on the the bottom. To put it back on, soak the knob in hot water for about 60 seconds. It will slide on like butter. I think water at 150-180 degrees will do it. Use a meat thermometer to measure the water temp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 610 #53 Posted December 30, 2014 I dont know if the grip is the same for the work horses but mine is still available for GT1142 for $3.03 and my 416H uses the same one also its just the standard circle rod no flat side unless your talking about the forward reverse know then id see why just glad you got yours off mine didn't follow the same fate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,676 #54 Posted January 7, 2015 I got the sheet metal back from the welder. I had all the cracks TIG welded, and the weld goes all the way through the crack. Below is an example of the finished repair on the worst crack in the upper dash panel. My friend is a great welder (and Wheel Horse owner as well), and always does an excellent job. BEFORE AFTER WELD AND GRIND AFTER SAND AND PRIME More pictures will follow, but I am a little busy at the moment and can't devote as much time to the project as I'd like. 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #55 Posted January 8, 2015 Looks like a pro job Bob......Wayne Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #56 Posted January 8, 2015 looks good Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,577 #57 Posted January 8, 2015 I have a friend around the corner from me that built my PK loader. He has fabbed more stuff for my horses than I can count. He builds 2 cycle kart engines and has welded many Jet ski motors back together. Handy guy to have around. I had him weld a C-160 fender mount last year and I think it weighs 5 lbs more than original. Can't even tell by looking at it. Treat your welder friends well and they will take care of you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,676 #58 Posted January 8, 2015 ...Treat your welder friends well and they will take care of you! My guy is great. Never wants any money, but ends up taking a little for "material". If you can't weld yourself, it's nice to know a good welder. If you don't know plumbing or electrical, it's nice to have friends that do. If you don't know "horses", it's great when you find RedSquare. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,034 #59 Posted January 8, 2015 Looks like a new one, Bob.... We have a tig, mig and stick welder at work and a guy that's pretty good with them. It is nice to have that available. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,676 #60 Posted January 8, 2015 Looks like a new one, Bob.... We have a tig, mig and stick welder at work and a guy that's pretty good with them. It is nice to have that available. My welder friend says that when he is working with things like this, he likes to weld from the back of the object so minimal damage is done to the face side. He says that the TIG welder will weld through the crack and leave a small bead on the face side that just needs to be ground down to smooth it out. That is what he did here. The majority of the weld is on the back side to offer a bit more support. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #61 Posted January 8, 2015 The best welder I ever saw worked for Southern Railroad before he retired. First to tell the reason the reason I was there. I had a 66 2+2 fastback Mustang 4 speed. A friend an I were going down the road, I look in the rear view mirror and another friend was coming up behind us wide open. Well I shifted in to third gear and floored it and busted the heater core dumping water and antifreeze in the passenger floor board. The old man ran a radiator and welding shop. When I got there he was welding up a fender on a 30 some model Chevy pickup. The fender has split and ran a crack 8" or so on the fender. He said he was just playing around the his welder settings. He had welded the fender from the top with the bead on the back side. The top was as slick as a baby's butt. That was 45 years ago and he was using a stick welder. I told him how I busted the heater core. When I picked it back up he said I don't think you'll bust it, I tested it with 35 pounds of pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #62 Posted January 8, 2015 Bob that's a top notch welder buddy you have there. Nicely done repair, and it will probably be stronger than original now. Nice work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,676 #63 Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) UPDATE - After having the console welded, I found that the hole for the steering shaft bushing was enlarged, allowing the bushing to move around, and causing unnecessary play in the steering. So I changed the entire setup by installing a modified flange bearing, part #6472, in place of the bronze bushing. Here are some pictures. This is the view from the operator position, looking down through the steering shaft hole and motion lever and hydro lift lever holes. You can see the new Nyliners (part #5983) sitting in place. View from the bottom Another from the bottom showing the stainless steel #10 Allen-head screws Stainless steel nylock nuts I am eliminating all of the 14 shims, o-ring, and cotter pin, and replacing them all with a locking collar. Edited February 3, 2015 by rmaynard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #64 Posted February 3, 2015 looks to be a good fix Bob Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #65 Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) That will make a nice strong result there, Bob. You came up with a good solution for the lack of room with the column levers. New nyliners where needed will also make a happy tractor........... and owner..... Edited February 3, 2015 by Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 237 #66 Posted February 4, 2015 I like that, Bob. I guess I can use the flange bushing unmodified, since my motion control lever is in the "floor" so to speak. I have a foot control that I plan to install soon, as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
