rmaynard 15,706 #1 Posted December 26, 2014 Is it common for a 300/400/500 series tractor with 1600 hours to experience this kind of metal fatigue in the hoodstand area? I have considered welding them, but I might just replace them if I can find some decent used pieces.. Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #2 Posted December 26, 2014 Ive welded a few up. Its not uncommon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #3 Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) Bob, if you're tearing this one down for restoration or even a refurb and you can tig or mig weld I'd give it a shot if I were you. I only have an arc (stick) welder and I'm sure it wouldn't be capable of the kind of finesse welding you need to do there. It sure would be cheaper than the replacement parts so you really have nothing to lose. Edited December 26, 2014 by JimD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 478 #4 Posted December 26, 2014 I've seen it alot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #5 Posted December 26, 2014 I have a MIG welder, but I'm a hole burner, not a welder. I can do crude welding, but something like this is not my forte. I would have to take it somewhere to have it done right. So, if this is a common problem as Wayne and Tyson have said, what is the cause? Can it be prevented in the future. Does this type of tractor have too much flex? Inquiring minds want to know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,155 #6 Posted December 26, 2014 From what I've observed from watching my dad get off and on wheel horses is when someone uses the steering wheel to pull themselves off and on to the tractor especially larger people it puts a lot of were on the steering wheel and dash tower just my 2 cents 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,563 #7 Posted December 26, 2014 I just tore down my 520HC today. The HC like the later 520's has a larger seat support that encompases the rear tunnel cover screws. You would think that would have stopped the cracking but no, I will need to get mine welded up as well. No cracks at the hoodstand area however. Cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #8 Posted December 26, 2014 Bob I have the same problem with my 416-8 with 1800+ hours. The plan is to pull it off and weld 1/4" rod on the inside of both sides of the upper dash next spring. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #9 Posted December 26, 2014 Bob I have the same problem with my 416-8 with 1800+ hours. The plan is to pull it off and weld 1/4" rod on the inside of both sides of the upper dash next spring. SAM_0543.JPG That sounds like a good idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #10 Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) So, if this is a common problem as Wayne and Tyson have said, what is the cause? Can it be prevented in the future. Does this type of tractor have too much flex? Inquiring minds want to know. some of the problem ( at lease the seat support) can come from too many Mrs Maynards cookie bars Brian Edited December 26, 2014 by buckrancher 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #11 Posted December 26, 2014 here's the fix I did on a 414-8 added a plate on the bottom side Brian 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #12 Posted December 26, 2014 That looks great. Wish I had your welding skills. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #13 Posted December 27, 2014 I too have seen the cracks where the seat bolts on,i bought a 110 volt mig welder for working on the horses,its great for light meatal,i have a 220 stick but could never do what the light welder can do Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #14 Posted December 27, 2014 The one I have is a 120 volt Lincoln. I used a friends 240 volt welder in his shop, with him making all the correct settings, and I did a good job welding some 1/4" steel. I need him to come to my shop and show me how to set up my welder to do light stuff like this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,359 #15 Posted December 27, 2014 I had one like that too. @Brian- will you please learn how to weld That looks terrible Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
motor12 367 #16 Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Oxygen/ acetylene welding works very nice on Wheel horse sheet metal and may not be as intimating as other forms of welding. My 854 needed a bunch of reworking and I used gas welding for it all. Edited December 27, 2014 by motor12 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,030 #17 Posted December 27, 2014 Very common issue, seen many of the rear tabs broke off, starting in 78 up, that problem is common, good used will be hard to find Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #18 Posted December 27, 2014 Looks like I need to learn to weld. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #19 Posted December 27, 2014 I had one like that too. @Brian- will you please learn how to weld That looks terrible Steve my wife says I'm a work in progress Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,520 #20 Posted December 27, 2014 Mig weld the cracks. We used to keep copper blocks in our tool boxes; i.e.: 2" wide x 1/2" thick x 6" long. Clamp the copper piece behind the crack, then weld the crack. No blow outs, no blown holes. Nice looking, no excellent repairs buckrancher! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,520 #21 Posted December 27, 2014 Bob I have the same problem with my 416-8 with 1800+ hours. The plan is to pull it off and weld 1/4" rod on the inside of both sides of the upper dash next spring. SAM_0543.JPG My '85 416-8 had the same cracks, welded 'em. I like the idea of using the rod wish I did that but didn't. The weld is holding up fine but, next time rod behind the crack! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #22 Posted December 27, 2014 Does anyone think the rock shaft could be the cause??? Picking up or pushing up attachments has to cause a lot pressure on the hood stands of all models.....I always thought this area should have been beefier 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,706 #23 Posted December 27, 2014 You are right about the area where the rock shaft is mounted should be beefier, but I don't think that would account for the cracks in the upper dash panel where the steering wheel comes through. The original owner rarely used his snow blower or plow, as they both look practically new, and I'm guessing that 90% of the time was mowing. However, if he had an uneven or rough lawn, a lot of flexing could account for the cracking. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #24 Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) My 312 didn't have a rocker shaft and is broken on the left side. The footrest were all bent, I think it was from a 350# or so pound owner. I weigh 180# and the footrest gave every time I stepped on them. I beat them back straight, and reinforced them with a 3/8" rod spot welded under the lip. Haven't fixed the hood stand, need to fix the steering shaft support and haven't got the steering wheel off as yet. I have a fender washer under the hood stand until I can get everything apart. Edited December 27, 2014 by Don1977 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 413 #25 Posted December 27, 2014 Bob, let me ask you this ... where the mounting bolts tight ?? my 314 wasn't cracked ,but all the hood stand bolts were loose From the one pic it looks like the wear on the tab could be from loose hardware ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites