bmsgaffer 2,043 #101 Posted November 24, 2014 I think it would be pretty sweet to be able to make reproduction seniors! "Resto-mods" as it were with newer engines etc... Although i think many, many people would disagree with me... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whtractors24 3,116 #102 Posted November 26, 2014 this is quality work for sure cant wait to see the done product Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #103 Posted November 26, 2014 I think it would be pretty sweet to be able to make reproduction seniors! "Resto-mods" as it were with newer engines etc... Although i think many, many people would disagree with me... I think they should make the 5xi with the ol time square hood look. A home run. In my opinion. Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #104 Posted November 26, 2014 I think they should make the 5xi with the ol time square hood look. A home run. In my opinion. Glenn sounds like a good project when do you think you'll have it done Glenn 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,088 #106 Posted November 26, 2014 Why did I just sit here and watch the full 2:21 of that? 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #107 Posted November 26, 2014 Here I will post something for you guy's to look at. These are the front rims brian 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #108 Posted November 26, 2014 I think that Duke has you beat... his had more holes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330 #109 Posted November 27, 2014 Plans to fix those Brian? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #110 Posted November 27, 2014 Brian, wire brush those rims really good. Put the paint on extra thick over the holes. Dont worry, when you put the tires on you wont see the hole. Or,,,,,choice 2, dont touch them, everyone here loves patina, those rims are loaded with patina. Lol Glenn 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #111 Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Brian, wire brush those rims really good. Put the paint on extra thick over the holes. Dont worry, when you put the tires on you wont see the hole. Or,,,,,choice 2, dont touch them, everyone here loves patina, those rims are loaded with patina. Lol Glenn that hole is where the valve stem is these are what I'm making the E-tank for Edited November 27, 2014 by buckrancher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330 #112 Posted November 27, 2014 In all honesty I actually ground a set down to bare metal on my 953 and job welded a quarter in that spot and filled in the depression on the outside. I then re drilled a new hole for the new valve stem. I posted pics on dukes thread. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #113 Posted November 27, 2014 what was left of the hole was opened up to a larger hole and a patch welded in ground and blended then a new 5/8" hole was drilled Brian 9 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #114 Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) The work. Phenomenal! Allways enjoy following good work. Pick up tips and pointers. I cant do them, but sure like following along. Glenn edir: plus I cant wait for that e tank, see those results. Edited November 27, 2014 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #115 Posted December 8, 2014 had some time this weekend and I managed to remove the motor and transmission ready to go to the shop for clean up and tear down Brian 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cstempert 27 #116 Posted December 11, 2014 Hey Brian. Are you tearing down the 3-speed? I'm rebuilding one now and there are a couple things to watch out for. There are a couple washers on the main gear set that vary in thickness. Also make sure you use permatex grey on the countershaft and reverse idler shafts. Also if your input main shaft is bad there are a couple different versions. The one I'm rebuilding had the wrong one Luckily all bearings and seals are available and relatively cheap Just an FYI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #117 Posted December 11, 2014 Hey Brian. Are you tearing down the 3-speed? I'm rebuilding one now and there are a couple things to watch out for. There are a couple washers on the main gear set that vary in thickness. Also make sure you use permatex grey on the countershaft and reverse idler shafts. Also if your input main shaft is bad there are a couple different versions. The one I'm rebuilding had the wrong one Luckily all bearings and seals are available and relatively cheap Just an FYI thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #118 Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) started digging into the transmission today found some problems first thing I noticed is the balls and springs are missing from the synchro-mesh next I found this end play in the shaft movement of about .150. I do not know where this is coming from does anyone know if the ponds actually did weld this gear on? Brian Edited December 12, 2014 by buckrancher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #119 Posted December 12, 2014 Looks like a little bird welded that on....lol....Wayne Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cstempert 27 #120 Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Hey Brian Mine is welded on to but I believe it was originally keyed on. I know this is the weak point of the tractor because this is why the PO took my Sr. apart.. His nephew blew this pinion pushing a snow pile. I "believe" is would have been splined and held on with a bolt originally. On a truck it would be splined and then a u-joint flange would be secured with a bolt in the threaded end of the o/p shaft Since we have a gear and no outer bearing support I'm not sure what controls the free play Here's a pic from VanPelt. They have most of the drawings for the early ford trans on their site I have ALL of the ford part books at the shop so I'll do a little id'ing of the trans and scan the parts breakdowns and service book so you have the rebuild procedure (pretty self explanatory) I can also get all the parts together for you to rebuild Btw. There should be .007-.010 end play between the gear in the center (not reverse) and the synchro (there are 2 washer thickness avail) After assy there should be none where you are experiencing .250 Edited December 12, 2014 by cstempert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cstempert 27 #121 Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Also that low/reverse gear looks pretty beat up See if there are any part no stamped in. This helps date the trans 01T .... 51T .... 8M .... Are common ford no Edited December 12, 2014 by cstempert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dovetail53 18 #122 Posted December 12, 2014 Brian, yes! the final drive gear is welded on. I've been working on one for a few years now, and only recently have focused on the tranny. I think???? this transmission might be in a little better shape than yours. so if you'd like, just for comparison, I can send a few photos. I've been following your posts, and as it turns out, I'm a bit ahead of you on the restore thus far (although it won't be long until you pass me) I've gone over the steering box, built new spindle assemblies, and at the present am having the engine re-bored, and getting things in order to finish it's rebuild. I'm curious to know, when you get the bull gear assemblies apart. if your axle shaft bearings are the same size as mine. these bearings are 5/8 x 1 1/8 i.d. x 2 1/4 o.d. and while it's apart, I feel they should be replaced. what I've found out is, Nice is the only company making that size presently. they can be bought at Fastenal, or Motion Ind. only problem is, they come in lots of 10!!! at $43-$47 a piece, that is a bit pricey. so what I'm considering doing is replacing the metal piece that retains the bearings with one that's 2 1/2 o.d. I've found these bearings for a lower price, and I didn't have to buy 10 of them. the only thing I need to look into, is if there's enough room for the new retainer at the top end of the bull gear housing. sorry for being so winded, but I'm thinking any insight may be appreciated at this point on your project. good luck with it, I'm enjoying reading your posts! Dan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #123 Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Hey Brian Mine is welded on to but I believe it was originally keyed on. I know this is the weak point of the tractor because this is why the PO took my Sr. apart.. His nephew blew this pinion pushing a snow pile. I "believe" is would have been splined and held on with a bolt originally. On a truck it would be splined and then a u-joint flange would be secured with a bolt in the threaded end of the o/p shaft Since we have a gear and no outer bearing support I'm not sure what controls the free play Here's a pic from VanPelt. They have most of the drawings for the early ford trans on their site ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418346500.830146.jpg I have ALL of the ford part books at the shop so I'll do a little id'ing of the trans and scan the parts breakdowns and service book so you have the rebuild procedure (pretty self explanatory) I can also get all the parts together for you to rebuild Btw. There should be .007-.010 end play between the gear in the center (not reverse) and the synchro (there are 2 washer thickness avail) After assy there should be none where you are experiencing .250 I ordered their repair manual last night part # 78-7006 built 1937 thru 50 the big problem with the gear welded on means you can'nt replace the bearing on the output shaft and yes the rev. gear is shot Brian Edited December 12, 2014 by buckrancher 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #124 Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Hey Chris I know this trans has been apart before as they used silicone gasket sealer on everything. Is there not two different lengh synchro's I was just wondering out loud if they replaced some piece's from another trans and that they used the wrong parts I noticed the welded on gear had been in water at some point as three teeth are very rusty and the box was full of oil and no water Brian Edited December 12, 2014 by buckrancher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cstempert 27 #125 Posted December 12, 2014 Hey Chris I know this trans has been apart before as they used silicone gasket sealer on everything. Is there not two different lengh synchro's I was just wondering out loud if they replaced some piece's from another trans and that they used the wrong parts I noticed the welded on gear had been in water at some point as three teeth are very rusty and the box was full of oil and no water Brian Brian Not uncommon to find them rusty. If they were left outside water gets down the shift rod. I work on medium / heavy 50's trucks and many of the trans we find are rusted. It can have misc parts so as I said check for p/n on all the gears and I can confirm what's correct or will work right The Manual will be good but slightly vague because of a couple varieties of design As for the bearings. I also work for an Industrial distributor (not Motion) and there are mins for the roller bearings in the cluster gear, but there are rebuild kits avail with all the bearings including the in/out shaft as well as new synchros thrust washers, Rev gear , low and 2nd Gears aren't cheap, but not ridiculous. Pm me & I'll get the parts you need Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
