dave s 0 #1 Posted October 13, 2008 I put the dozer blade on my 520, Is there any guides at the front to keep the blade from yawing off to side, or is it all supported at the rear mount? I think I'm jumping the season as it is 75F. here today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #2 Posted October 13, 2008 I dont think any of the classic GT blades had a guide. But when the newer xi series GT came out Toro did add one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave s 0 #3 Posted October 13, 2008 Nick! thanks for the picture, shoudn't be too hard to make up something. dave s :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #4 Posted October 14, 2008 I had the same question when I rebuilt the plow for my D160. I hadn't seen anything on any of the older iron that would keep the blade from going off-center when pushing a big load. So, I improvised, and overcame(over engineered). Thats 3/4" X 2 3/4" flat bar inside 1" X 3" tubing, it works and there shouldn't be any "wandering" off center. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave s 0 #5 Posted October 15, 2008 Very interesting, Catman, looks like it would get the job done. Thanks dave s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craig Arndt 6 #6 Posted October 16, 2008 That is pretty cool. Nice job catman. I wondered about the blade yawing side to side but I've moved my compost pile and it didn't budge. Good work on that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #7 Posted October 16, 2008 Thanks for the compliments If I had to do it again(after seeing Nicks post) thats the way I'd go.(the factory version) Looks alot simpler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glenn27 71 #8 Posted October 16, 2008 I had the same question when I rebuilt the plow for my D160. I hadn't seen anything on any of the older iron that would keep the blade from going off-center when pushing a big load. So, I improvised, and overcame(over engineered). Thats 3/4" X 2 3/4" flat bar inside 1" X 3" tubing, it works and there shouldn't be any "wandering" off center. Tim--that is a good restro-fit--and a good idea.... I'll use it! Oh--and I just remembered what I told you awhile back after getting my front blade... glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HarleyMan46929 0 #9 Posted October 29, 2008 Catman, your idea looks strong, although I'm still trying to figure out why the chain, welded at the top and bolted at the bottom, is needed. It looks like it would get at least one link caught during the lift/lower sequence, or is there more room between the piece you engineered in and the original bracing on the blade? I am getting a blade shortly, and I may try something similar, so I'd like to know. Please enlighten me! javascript:emoticon('') smilie At least, this should take some of the stress of holding the blade straight off of the rear mounting rod and brackets. Now, all those pieces have to do is hold their end up, and absorb the pressure when you push with the blade. You've reduced part of their job, Great Work!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #10 Posted October 29, 2008 Maybe to keep from loosing the upper piece during storage months?? Thats what my thought was anyhow, cause id sure as heck loose it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,410 #11 Posted October 29, 2008 I would guess he has down pressure on his blade, and that chain is a distance limiter that keeps the guide tab from coming up out of the slot when he pushes the blade down. Am I close Tim? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #12 Posted October 30, 2008 Jason gets the Gold star I got the spring assist link and the spring is pretty weak. I drilled a hole to relocate the mount pin. I'm still having issue's concerning blade height. When lowered to the full stroke of the lift ram, the blade goes down alot farther than up. Hence the chain. I put a couple 2X2" sqr tubes under each front tire and figured thats the travel limit. I might end up doing away with the helper spring altogether and use a solid link. In the full up position the plow frame rests against the bottom of the mid hitch. All said and done, if I were to do it over I'd copy the factory piece, alot simpler and easier to fab up. Glenn, don't sweat it dude!!! I was happy just to help out :USA: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
