JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #1 Posted September 28, 2014 Yes. That's right. The 854 I just finished. I am so dam mad right now. I went to take it for a spin around the yard. Stuck in gear. Any where I move the shifter. And the shifter only moves from the center to the left. 3rd or reverse side. Loose as can be. Let the clutch out. Tractor won't budge. Engine dies. Also. When I put the rear fluid in. Only 1 quart. No more. It was spilling over the fill lip onto the pan. Now what? What happened in one day. From a couple rides where it ran perfect. Shifted like butter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #2 Posted September 28, 2014 At anytime have you opened up the trans Glenn? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,458 #3 Posted September 28, 2014 Shifter bolt loose? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #4 Posted September 28, 2014 He hasn't, I'm on the phone with him. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #5 Posted September 28, 2014 It also sounds like it's in 2 gears at once, engine dies when clutch is disengaged. Stick is stuck on the left side and moves all over the place and won't go to the right. This is just info for the smarter ones here, I haven't been inside one of these. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #6 Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) My b-80 shifter pin broke and stayed in gear no matter where the shifter was. But your case seems a little different. Maybe this will help? Edited September 28, 2014 by scotty 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #7 Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) If you opened up case and made any changes>>>Take the shift "stick" out and look in hole, see if you can see both shift rails lined up in center (normal)or if one appears up or down and other same or in neutral (centered). With both in respective selected gear position tractor shouldn't move (1 upward 1 downward). Does that make sense, with both in a selected gear at same time main shaft (input) is meshing two gears at once against cluster gear. Attached pic is sideways, shift rails here go up and down where your view would be back and forth (front to back). Edited September 28, 2014 by groundhog47 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #8 Posted September 28, 2014 First off. I didn't go into the case. Didn't want to. I just tried to pull the shift lever out to peer in there. I pulled what must be a stop nut off. I think the screw going into the case must be a Alan head??? Not sure but what else could it be. There is no room for a Alan key. Either cut one down or ?????? Very depressing to say the least. Thanks for the replies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,352 #9 Posted September 29, 2014 Sound like a simple fix but is one that will frustrate you. It sounds to me like the shift forks are sticking. I would pull the shifter and drain the fluid out. Pour kero or diesel in it and run it. You may have to use a screw driver to move the shift forks. Drain the fluid again and refill with gear oil. Take a deep breath it will be fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,694 #10 Posted September 29, 2014 you can reach the set screw from under the hood stand if you have a allen wrench about 6" long Brian 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #11 Posted September 29, 2014 How do you pull the shifter? There it is. Stop nut off. Screw still in. Maybe a needle nose battle? Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #12 Posted September 29, 2014 I think there is an allen head in there. That entire screw you see has to come out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kudzu3 323 #13 Posted September 29, 2014 I found that it was easier to pull the trans on my b 80 to get access to, and turn the allen head screw, than to do it with everything in place. Pain in the rear either way. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #14 Posted September 29, 2014 Yes, it's an allen head, I believe 1/8". It doesn't have to come all the way out. Just enough to free the shifter. It can be a pain but very do-able. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #15 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) If you can get your fingers in there lightly jiggle the shifter a bit as you try to back it out. The screw likely will back out with just your fingers. Edited September 29, 2014 by Racinbob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #16 Posted September 29, 2014 You could cut the short end of the allen wrench down to say 1/4 inch... so it fits in the limited space you've got to work with there...allen just fits into the end of that screw Glenn. Screw looks pretty clean, and shouldn't take much effort to get it out. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #17 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) You could cut the short end of the allen wrench down to say 1/4 inch... so it fits in the limited space you've got to work with there...allen just fits into the end of that screw Glenn. Screw looks pretty clean, and shouldn't take much effort to get it out. great minds, think alike. Lol I had that same idea, I sure as heck hate to tear the tractor down. Tell you what, I wont touch anything till the morrow. I put in a long tireing day around the house, when this thing happened. It fried me. I am gojng to do what I rarely do. Sit down, relax. thanks guys for the input, really much appreciated. Will keep you all up to speed what happens. Glenn edit: btw, I called the screw, alan head,,, like my middle name alan. I wonder,,,, is Brians middle name "set"? J/K brian................. Edited September 29, 2014 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,104 #18 Posted September 29, 2014 If you are stuck in 2 gears at once I think I know what is causing this. The problem is created when you shift from R or 1st to 2nd or 3rd too fast. When all is back together and you want to shift say from R to 2nd, move the shifter to neutral and hold it there for a count of about 5 before you move the shifter through the neutral gate to go to 2nd. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd or R to 1st or 1st to R is not a problem. It's when you go through the neutral gate. I had a transmission out 7 times before I realized what was happening and then I didn't fix it. I used the above method to prove my theory was correct. Next time it comes apart it will get fixed. I'll make that a separate post so it is not buried here. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Firpo701 407 #19 Posted September 29, 2014 I had a transaxle one time where the shifter itself would jump completely out of the shift forks! The forks and the ball on the end of the shifter were worn, allowing it to do so. When this would happen, it would do the same thing you are describing... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #20 Posted September 29, 2014 These guys are on top of your problem. Once you back out that "dog point set screw" enough to pull out the shifter...look in the hole. You will see the 2 shift forks...one of them is going to be pushed to one side...when the trans is in neutral, you will see them matched up and facing each other...a square. Use a long screw driver to shift the one shift fork that is in gear until you see that square. Post a picture if you want and one of your shifter so we can see if that is the problem. When you get the forks lined up, you can replace the shifter. The doughnut on the shifter has a hole towards the front...the dog point set screw has a point on it that goes into this hole and keeps the shifter in place but still allows you to work the shifter. You want to snug the set screw until the shifter ball is tight and then back it off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. The shifter should move freely, but not feel sloppy. Once you get it where you want it...tighten the lock nut to hold the set screw in place. Boom-sha-ka-la-ka!! I have cut the end of an allen wrench so it is easier to work with...but the best way is like Brian said (from under the stand with a longer wrench). Home Depot, ACE or any hardware store would carry them...and you only have to buy the one you need. The correct size is 1/8". 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,408 #21 Posted September 29, 2014 This excellent photo description of pulling a shifter to check shift fork alignment is copied from this old topic.. Credit to rmaynard.... Before inserting shift lever, make sure that the forks are aligned in the neutral position as shown below: 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #22 Posted September 29, 2014 Ok. Shifter out. A peek inside. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #23 Posted September 29, 2014 My brother stopped. One pic taken was after re alining. Will put shifter in. Try it out. Let's see what happens. Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #24 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Excellent...that was your problem. The 3rd picture shows your trans in neutral now. You had the trans engaged in 2 gears at the same time. How does the shift lever look?? You were in 1st and 2nd gear at the same time. Edited September 29, 2014 by stevasaurus 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #25 Posted September 29, 2014 Excellent...that was your problem. The 3rd picture shows your trans in neutral now. You had the trans engaged in 2 gears at the same time. How does the shift lever look?? You were in 1st and 2nd gear at the same time. Everything is back to perfect. I should have taken a picture but did not. The end of the shift rod and ball were perfect. No chunks missing or nothing deformed. Here is a picture of my brother test drive. BIG THANKS FELLAS! A good lesson learned. Glenn 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites