motion of tractor

[redhead 10]

I have a 1979 c-141 wheelhorse tractor and it has been ok till yesterday. Seems that the longer that you run tractor problem with moving forward gets worse. Won't hardly move forward(very slow) won't move in reverse at all. Going to drain oil and install new filter and oil in trans. The unloader valve is closed the way it is suppose to be.

What other things can I check for this problem? Would like to have all help from experts on wheelhorse problems THANKS

[Ed Kennell 38,719]

Make sure the pump drive pulley  and the pump shaft are turning.   The belt could be slipping or the shaft/pulley key could be missing or sheared.

 

Check the motion control linkage to be sure nothing is loose.

 

And

[boovuc 1,090]

Hi Redhead,

 

Check all those things and as you stated, change out the oil and filter in the Trannie.

One of the symptoms of a hydro going out is motion failure once the transmission is heated up. (Normal operating Temp).

It will move OK when you first start it but after the oil warms up, it loses power.

Again, check all the other things first as Ed wrote above. If this just started happening out of the blue, it may not be an internal hydro problem.

[redhead 10]

I checked all the things every one had posted, and changed oil and filter. same thing after warm up. I went ahead and drained oil again and added 20w50 this time, still same thing after warm up slow moving. Shouldn't adding thicker oil make a difference in operation of tractor?

This problem justed started out of the blue, Tractor operated just fine all summer long, till sunday when this became known to me.

Does anyone know of anyone around Marietta,ohio that works on wheelhorse? If so let me know THANKS

[Geno 1,929]

I'm not a hydro man but   

[Ed Kennell 38,719]

Sorry Red,  I don't have any experience in hydro repairs.  I have a Sundstrand 90-1140 hydro that died in my C-160 just like yours did. One day it worked fine, next day it died. It is on my list of projects to open it and see if I can repair it, but it's pretty far down the list.  I just picked up a Charger 12 with a blown engine  and  put its 90-2046 Sundstrand hydro in the C-160.

 

 Maybe one of the Hydro Experts will chime in to help.  You can do a SEARCH for hydro repair  and see what you find.    Good Luck

[pfrederi 17,902]

Usually the kind of issue you describe comes on more gradually...but there are lots of possibilities.  Go to this link and download the Sundstrand hydro manual.  it has an excellent diagnostic section. See what sounds closest and lets us know. Do you have access to a hydraulic pressure gage? 

Edited September 10, 2014 by pfrederi

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,104]

Make sure the pump drive pulley  and the pump shaft are turning.   The belt could be slipping or the shaft/pulley key could be missing or sheared.

 

Check the motion control linkage to be sure nothing is loose.

 

And

Like the drive pulley check each axle/wheel hub for a sheared Woodfuff key. It only takes one of the 3 to fail and you get a no-drive condition. Not likely the problem but worth a check before you dig deeper. You are looking for an axle spinning in the hub or trying to spin.

 

Garry

[Ed Kennell 38,719]

                                                                                                       

 

           Good point....Thanks Garry.      Sorry I missed this easy to do check.

[DOC in Kentucky 178]

Does it have a push valve? Is it tighten properly?

[redhead 10]

_{yes it has push valve and is closed all the way. Also pulled rear wheels and keys are ok.Belt not slipping, but when I had it out yesterday after doing some checking on this problem, their sounded like a whinning noise coming from area of pump.}

_{would it be pump going out or possible some valves, like acc.}

_{THANKS for all help}

[Ed Kennell 38,719]

Sounds like you have checked all the easy stuff.   Time to look for a replacement or take Paul's advice and download the Sundstrand manual and do some pressure checking of the pump output.

[redhead 10]

I DONE A PRESSURE CHECK ON PUMP TODAY AND IT STARTED OUT AROUND200PSI, BUT AS OIL WARMED UP IT DROPPED DOWN TO AROUND 85PSI. ALSO DONE IMPLEMENT CHECK AND COULD ONLY GET 140PSI AT END OF CYLINDER STROKE.

also I CAN PUSH TRACTOR WITH PUSH VALVE CLOSED.

CAN A NORMAL PERSON DISMANTLE PUMP AND MAKE REPAIRS IF NEEDED.oR DOES VALVES NEED CHECKED App ALL THE HELP PEOPLE CAN GIVE ME

thanks

[smoreau 658]

your answer is yes and no. That all depends on your skill level in this area. I was able to revive my sunstrand in my 875 by doing some deburing and smoothing out the pistons and swash plate in the pump. But that is not a worker any more. just a cruser. The manuel goes preaty deep and I didn't need any major parts, just seals and gaskets. so I got lucky in that aspect. It is easyer to just get a used pump, but you can fix yours if you can find the correct parts and want to take the time. Mine had the diff pinions explode into thousands of tiny metel shards! And yes the smaller ones did get run through the pump.

Edited September 13, 2014 by smoreau

[Ed Kennell 38,719]

I believe, after you download and read the manual, you will know if you have the skills and tools to tackle a rebuild.   If you enjoy doing a project like this and treat it like a learning experience, you have nothing to lose. But if it is a chore you don't enjoy, then it could be a bad experience if you don't end up with a good hydro.   Only you can make that decision.  Good luck.

[pfrederi 17,902]

The sudden onset of your problem would seem to indicated a problem with relief or check valves.  The change in pressure cold to hot seems to be a bit large.

 

The good news is pulling the hydro pump on your c series is a whole heck of a lot easier than on a D series.  Once the pump is off working on it doesn't require anything special in tool world.  (The hydro motor does require a press to completely disassemble)...but you can access the acceleration valves with out that. 

[redhead 10]

The sudden onset of your problem would seem to indicated a problem with relief or check valves.  The change in pressure cold to hot seems to be a bit large.

 

The good news is pulling the hydro pump on your c series is a whole heck of a lot easier than on a D series.  Once the pump is off working on it doesn't require anything special in tool world.  (The hydro motor does require a press to completely disassemble)...but you can access the acceleration valves with out that. 

I am having trouble getting the slotted plugs out of housing to check check valves. what is a good way to get them out? THANKS

[pfrederi 17,902]

I have used lots of kroil/PB Blaster,drag link sockets and also a hand impact tool They are recalcitrant sometimes.