squonk 41,445 #26 Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) If your making a homemade puller use a fine thread bolt instead of a coarse one. It will provide a lot more pulling power and with more threads per inch the threads won't pull apart. If you look at a gear puller ,all of the threads are fine. Edited August 30, 2014 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #27 Posted August 30, 2014 Anti seize it for sure. I went back and looked on the bench and I use Permatex 80078 (bottle with brush) Permatex 81464 (aerosol). Available at your local parts stores. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #28 Posted August 30, 2014 Tons of force Mark. I'm thinkin' maybe a little anti-seize in there... wouldn't be a bad idea before putting them back on the axle? Along that same line of thinking, I've used pipe dope on the threads of my mower spindles and axle hubs for years and never had a problem getting them apart afterwards. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,902 #29 Posted August 30, 2014 If your making a homemade puller use a fine thread bolt instead of a coarse one. It will provide a lot more pulling power and with more threads per inch the threads won't pull apart. If you look at a gear puller ,all of the threads are fine. Fine threads are better. However Acme threads are even better yet (you can get acme threaded rod and nuts from McMaster) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #30 Posted August 30, 2014 Humm...acme threads huh? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,445 #31 Posted August 30, 2014 Fine threads are better. However Acme threads are even better yet (you can get acme threaded rod and nuts from McMaster) As long as the're not the kind Wile E Coyote uses! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #32 Posted August 30, 2014 I always make sure they slide on first, so clean all burrs off then 1000 grit paper to polish and then copper grease. Got four to bolt back on on bendy, will see how long they last 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #33 Posted August 30, 2014 pfrederi (Paul)...that is one serious puller you made there. Thumbs up mate!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 682 #34 Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) Has anyone ever tried Anti Seize to prevent these hubs from getting this tight, just wondering . Edited August 30, 2014 by Lagersolut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #35 Posted August 30, 2014 Anti seize it for sure. I went back and looked on the bench and I use Permatex 80078 (bottle with brush) Permatex 81464 (aerosol). Available at your local parts stores. I anti seize the world! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #36 Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) Someone told me a good thing is to clean well before installing the woodruff key again is to use graphite . Mix graphite with a little water and set in the key hole and set the key . Make sure key is clean and sander or deburred with a dremel ! The set screw in the hub also makes burrs in the key if you look real close. Edited August 30, 2014 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,445 #37 Posted August 30, 2014 If you use anti seize on the hubs it will make it's way to the steering wheel! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,902 #38 Posted August 30, 2014 pfrederi (Paul)...that is one serious puller you made there. Thumbs up mate!! It worked...finally. That is not an optical illusion I bent the 1-1/2" thick wall tubing in the process of removing the hub. D hubs are the worse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #39 Posted August 30, 2014 WOW! You weren't kidding Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hossenfeffa 49 #40 Posted August 30, 2014 Heat, a puller, and 1/2 drive impact. Just did mine today. Heat is the key. No pun intended! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #41 Posted August 31, 2014 (edited) I have used the mig on full power to get some serious heat into the casting. The time taken grinding the weld off is easier than the pain of breaking the hub or puller... Here's my front axle from bendy, one hub took quite a while to wind off. Here's why Edited August 31, 2014 by meadowfield 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #42 Posted August 31, 2014 Think the hub removed that metal as it was pulling over it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #43 Posted August 31, 2014 the hub certainly removed some metal from bother sides as it was the galling that was stopping it moving. The axle seals had leaked some much it was never going to rust on! the keyway is chewed because the PO couldn't be bothered to fix it choosing to drive with both hubs loose and slid inwards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #44 Posted August 31, 2014 Maybe he didn't know how to fix it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #45 Posted August 31, 2014 Maybe he didn't know how to fix it. story of most wheel horse owners life Share this post Link to post Share on other sites