Dumb question...I think?

[AMC RULES 37,126]

When buying cheap tools...is it just a matter of time before this happens? 

Wondering if buying my next set of roll pin drivers from Matco, Snap-On, or Blue Point help to prevent this form occuring again? 

  $16.00 vs. $80.00? 

Edited August 26, 2014 by AMC RULES

[RMCIII 838]

Some jobs, in my opinion, require the "GOOD STUFF". There was another thread that talked about electrical tools. Air Force never cut corners when it came to tools that had anything to do with signal, current, amp,. volt. ect...flow. That job there Craig, needs the good stuff.!

[AMC RULES 37,126]

Just trying to imagine my reaction... 

to spending $80, and this happening again. 

[JimD 3,345]

Proper sized end mill in a drill. Works every time! Drill through it and put in a new one when ready.

Edited August 26, 2014 by JimD

[Martin 2,131]

Craig,

you can buy the good stuff and it will do the job fine and probably last forever if you treat them right.

 

heres something that I've had success with. search for any tool surplus stores nearby. i have one close that the owner buys lots of tools from the local arsenal when they have past there useable life or they retool for some reason. usually there is nothing wrong with most of them and you can pick up some very nice professionally made tooling very cheap. i buy odd taps, reamers, bits etc and have managed to find quite a few punches and drifts for the sort of thing you are having problems with.

 

i also have a nice older craftsman punch set that is still in excellent condition that i have looked after and not abused. the quality of the material the tool is made from is important.

 

sometimes starting to remove a pin like you are doing is better with a shorter punch to jolt it loose and then use a longer one to remove it. the longer thin ones tend to bend or bow when they are beat hard.

 

Jims idea has worked for me in the past too. sometimes you just know after the first blow that it aint going to come out and you need to drill it out of there!!!!!

[AMC RULES 37,126]

All good tips Martin...    

especially liked the shot punch idea for the initial blow. 

[Geno 1,929]

Just trying to imagine my reaction... 

to spending $80, and this happening again. 

 

Tell you what I've run into the past 4-5 years.  The Snap-On, Matco, Cornwell, or whoever truck shows up with that high priced tool that's the same thing as you buy at HF.  A fancy, expensive package that still says Made in China on it!  Just look close before you buy.   

[Ed Kennell 38,007]

Are you sure the pin has not sheared and the holes are no longer  aligned.  On the Raider clutch I just repaired, I could see some movement between the shaft and lever when I applied torque, so I knew the pin had sheared even though there was enough friction to operate the clutch.  So I  had to tap the shaft out, then remove the three pcs of pin.    When I put it back together, I added a set screw and a second pin.  This placing of  the pin near the OD of the shaft increases the shear area and the strength  2-4 X

 

 

  

[squonk 41,016]

I bet Ed is right about that pin being sheared. That puny pin would have a tough time bending even a cheapie punch. Or that roll pin could be bent in a sorta Z shape. When I replace the steering roll pins in my 704 I found that in the spindles. I was drilling them out for bigger pins anyway so it didn't matter.

Edited August 26, 2014 by squonk

[AMC RULES 37,126]

I'll check it again, but I can clearly see both ends of the pin...

and there's absolutely no play in the lever.  

But you're right, sure didn't feel like it was pushing on the pin.

[squonk 41,016]

You will see both ends. Even if it's bent. and there won't be play in it unless you can really put a load on the shaft and load the arm in an opposite direction. Drill out the pin ends and get the arm off. redrill the shaft if you have to. those pins normally drill easy.

[AMC RULES 37,126]

Everytime I've tried drilling out a roll pin...

it breaks the bit.    

[Ken B 3,164]

Tell you what I've run into the past 4-5 years.  The Snap-On, Matco, Cornwell, or whoever truck shows up with that high priced tool that's the same thing as you buy at HF.  A fancy, expensive package that still says Made in China on it!  Just look close before you buy.   

That just ain't right... I wonder how long the tool trucks can stay in business selling fancy crapola...

[Geno 1,929]

Everytime I've tried drilling out a roll pin...

it breaks the bit.    

 

I get that a lot too.      Are you just taking it off as part of a restore or is something wrong?

[Ed Kennell 38,007]

Craig, would it help to remove the pin from the other end of the shaft,    then you could slide the assembly toward you and have more room to use el-cheapo drift punch or drill?

[RMCIII 838]

Craig; just wondering if you are the origional owner? If not, maybe someon had a brilliant idea  and decided to use loctite, superglue or some other sort of bonding agent to keep the pin in tact.

 

Rob

[squonk 41,016]

If you can find a small enough end mill that will get it out. Or you will have to drill out to the next biggest hole size. Sounds like your bit is getting inside the pin and wedging itself

When I did my steering repair, the service bulletin had me drilling oversize right from the start so it went easy. Load that tractor on your truck and bring it here. I'll get it out or I know someone who will.

Edited August 26, 2014 by squonk

[SousaKerry 501]

Cobalt drills, pricey, hard to find, brittle as hell but effective.

 

I fought one of those on a 655 for 2 days strait at work after hours I think I would up using other roll pins to finally beat it out.  Was too hard to drill as the drill will always wander to the softer cast iron material even in a drill press and I could not get the frame in the mill or I would have one that.  

 

Also you can cut the shaft in the middle pull the two ends out press or drill the shaft out of the casting and make a new shaft.  Did that on my Lawn Ranger   

[AMC RULES 37,126]

Yep, someone has been in there before me, doing a 20ft rattle can job at some point it's past.

The other end of the shaft, I believe is welded to the idler pulley bracket.

I'm this close to cutting in half, but a new American made punch set is already on it's way...

patience is the key here, lot's of good ideas presented here that I'd like to give a try first. 

I'll let you know ultimately, what ends up working for me.   

[Ed Kennell 38,007]

 Load that tractor on your truck and bring it here. I'll get it out or I know someone who will.

 

Here's a better offer.... I'll come pick it up, fix it, and bring it back to you.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

   It may take 10-15 years, but I'll bring it back...I promise.

[Ed Kennell 38,007]

Craig, one more  .  If you do end up cutting the shaft, Match mark the halves first, then  put it back together with a pinned shaft coupling

. Will make it easy for the next owner to get it apart.

[jackhammer 546]

I have had this happen here

 

Clickable pic USA

 

happened thru my ignorance needed i size smaller

Edited August 26, 2014 by jackhammer

[Geno 1,929]

I size smaller punch or a size smaller hammer? 

[shorts 182]

I have a complete set of professional grade tools, mostly Snap on, But when it comes to punches and chisels its hard to beat farmer tested and proven Craftsman tools, they are just about the best ones on the market.  I've also been known to modify punches and chisels to do a particular job and then replace it with a new unmolested tool to fill out the set or in the case of harbor freight punches buy several sets with the understanding that they will be sacrificed/modified to the project gods.

 

The previous posts to use a stubby or tapered punch to start the roll pin is good advice, also it is usually best to progress to a large hammer and hit with a properly sized punch if you don't get any pin movement after 1 or 2 light taps

[AMC RULES 37,126]

So, just to update...I finally got my clutch lever off today. 

Got a set of cobalt bits, and drilled out the pin with a bit two sizes larger.

I actually heard the pin laugh at the one size smaller, and actual size bits...absolutely was not happening, period. 

It wasn't until I threw caution to the wind and grabbed the next larger 11/64th bit, that I actually began removing any material. 

Don't know what makes rolled pins so strong, but they definitely seem pretty determined to stay in there.     

Edited August 31, 2014 by AMC RULES