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rustykan

8 Speed Tranny Rebuild

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rustykan

Somewhere on here I saw a post from someone who covered putting an 8 speed back together step by step. I believe it was called transmission rebuild for dummies or something like that. Exactly what i need! Anyone know what I am talking about? Of course I can't find it now that I need it. Thanks!

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stevasaurus

I'll give you the links.  I just finished one with videos also.  :)  The 6 speed is basically the same as an 8 speed. 

 

 

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rustykan

Wasn't planning on taking the transmission apart, but now that it is, is there anything I should look for? I am going to replace all of the seals and one of the axle needle bearings fell apart. I am assuming they aren't supposed to do that. All in all, it looks like it is in very good shape for almost 40 years old. In the first photo, is the case supposed to look like that or is it a wear mark? The second and third photos appear to show some of the splines worn. If that is the case, should I be concerned?

post-12646-0-51274300-1407686431_thumb.j

post-12646-0-07160800-1407686601_thumb.j

post-12646-0-65832400-1407686657_thumb.j

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rustykan

I'll give you the links.  I just finished one with videos also.  :)  The 6 speed is basically the same as an 8 speed. 

 

 

Thanks, this will help a bunch!

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stevasaurus

In the 1st picture, that is a wear mark.  I am assuming that the bottom threw bearing is where your input shaft goes.  There should have been a "thrust" washer there on the input shaft that might have held the gear up enough to not make that mark where the cap bearing is.  The case is OK, and I would not do anything to it, but I would take a good look at the gear that did that.  I think I would replace that spine gear though, if you use this horse as a worker.  Send a PM to "racinfool40" Mike...he sells those (used) and will send you one.  He will have the thrust washer also if you did not have one.  :)  I also think I would replace both axle bearings, as one of them fell apart...they are not expensive. $10 to 12 apiece.

 

Maybe post another picture of that case half from a little farther back with the camera.  I would like to verify that one bearing is the input shaft.  :)

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rustykan

In the 1st picture, that is a wear mark.  I am assuming that the bottom threw bearing is where your input shaft goes.  There should have been a "thrust" washer there on the input shaft that might have held the gear up enough to not make that mark where the cap bearing is.  The case is OK, and I would not do anything to it, but I would take a good look at the gear that did that.  I think I would replace that spine gear though, if you use this horse as a worker.  Send a PM to "racinfool40" Mike...he sells those (used) and will send you one.  He will have the thrust washer also if you did not have one.  :)  I also think I would replace both axle bearings, as one of them fell apart...they are not expensive. $10 to 12 apiece.

 

Maybe post another picture of that case half from a little farther back with the camera.  I would like to verify that one bearing is the input shaft.  :)

Here is another photo of the case, a little further back. Where can the axle bearing be found? I have had no luck with the Toro part number 1526. All say discontinued.

post-12646-0-07871700-1407691402_thumb.j

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stevasaurus

A little farther back would be great.  I think I am looking at the deeper half of case of your trans.  This would make that threw bearing where your break shaft come out.  That mark may just have been a milling mark from the factory and is not an issue. :) 

 

If you have 1 1/8" axles...you want the KOYO B-1816 and the seal SKF 11050.  These are available from Motion Industries or from NAPA.  I just bought these from Motion Ind a few weeks ago...the B-1816 was $11.70 for 2 of them and the seals were $5.06 for 2.  The TORO 1526 was changed to TORO 9416, but you will pay much more buying them from TORO.  What you want to buy from TORO is the gasket you will need between the case halves...TORO #3912...just paid $5.13 for that.

 

It is possible you have 1" axles in an 8 speed trans...you need to check that.  Also check the diameter of your brake shaft and input shaft to get the right seals for those.

If the input shaft is 5/8" you need seal SKF 6105.  If the brake shaft is 3/4" you need seal SKF 7410.  If your brake shaft is 1" you need seal SKF 9815.

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stevasaurus

BTW...where those chips are out of that spline gear...that is where the 1st/reverse fork gear would be positioned when your horse is in 1st gear.  :)

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rustykan

A little farther back would be great.  I think I am looking at the deeper half of case of your trans.  This would make that threw bearing where your break shaft come out.  That mark may just have been a milling mark from the factory and is not an issue. :)

 

If you have 1 1/8" axles...you want the KOYO B-1816 and the seal SKF 11050.  These are available from Motion Industries or from NAPA.  I just bought these from Motion Ind a few weeks ago...the B-1816 was $11.70 for 2 of them and the seals were $5.06 for 2.  The TORO 1526 was changed to TORO 9416, but you will pay much more buying them from TORO.  What you want to buy from TORO is the gasket you will need between the case halves...TORO #3912...just paid $5.13 for that.

 

It is possible you have 1" axles in an 8 speed trans...you need to check that.  Also check the diameter of your brake shaft and input shaft to get the right seals for those.

If the input shaft is 5/8" you need seal SKF 6105.  If the brake shaft is 3/4" you need seal SKF 7410.  If your brake shaft is 1" you need seal SKF 9815.

How is this one?

post-12646-0-02627000-1407807622_thumb.j

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rustykan

A little farther back would be great.  I think I am looking at the deeper half of case of your trans.  This would make that threw bearing where your break shaft come out.  That mark may just have been a milling mark from the factory and is not an issue. :)

 

If you have 1 1/8" axles...you want the KOYO B-1816 and the seal SKF 11050.  These are available from Motion Industries or from NAPA.  I just bought these from Motion Ind a few weeks ago...the B-1816 was $11.70 for 2 of them and the seals were $5.06 for 2.  The TORO 1526 was changed to TORO 9416, but you will pay much more buying them from TORO.  What you want to buy from TORO is the gasket you will need between the case halves...TORO #3912...just paid $5.13 for that.

 

It is possible you have 1" axles in an 8 speed trans...you need to check that.  Also check the diameter of your brake shaft and input shaft to get the right seals for those.

If the input shaft is 5/8" you need seal SKF 6105.  If the brake shaft is 3/4" you need seal SKF 7410.  If your brake shaft is 1" you need seal SKF 9815.

When I looked on Motion Industries, the B-1816 bearing is either $9 or $13 each. One has a lubrication hole and one doesn't. They don't list the seals.

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Desko

I believe those smaller splines should have those cuts because if you look at them al the way around they tapper to smaller and smaller I have rebuilt a 4 pinion and an 8 pinion and both have the same markings on them. If its on the larger gear at the end of the splines should not have any chips missing.

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stevasaurus

You want the bearing without the lube hole.  They do show the seals...type in these catalog numbers in the search box on their web site...

 

#01295997 for the SKF 9815 1" seal

#01295057 for the SKF 7410 3/4" seal

#01321238 for the SKF 6105 5/8" seal

#01296483 for the SKF 11050 1 1/8" seal

 

#00090569 for the KOYO B-1816  1 1/8" bearing

#01295997 for the KOYO B-1616  1" bearing if you have 1" axles

 

I have found that the prices they show are not always what they charge you...most of the time it is a little cheaper.  :)  I pick up the parts at the outlet...so no shipping.

 

That case half looks OK.  Be careful cleaning the rust off the edge of the case.  I would just use a wire wheel to clean it.

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rustykan

You want the bearing without the lube hole.  They do show the seals...type in these catalog numbers in the search box on their web site...

 

#01295997 for the SKF 9815 1" seal

#01295057 for the SKF 7410 3/4" seal

#01321238 for the SKF 6105 5/8" seal

#01296483 for the SKF 11050 1 1/8" seal

 

#00090569 for the KOYO B-1816  1 1/8" bearing

#01295997 for the KOYO B-1616  1" bearing if you have 1" axles

 

I have found that the prices they show are not always what they charge you...most of the time it is a little cheaper.  :)  I pick up the parts at the outlet...so no shipping.

 

That case half looks OK.  Be careful cleaning the rust off the edge of the case.  I would just use a wire wheel to clean it.

Looks like I can get them for the same price through Amazon with free shipping. It just so happens that we have a Motion Industries nearby, so I might check the prices through them also and see if they are different from the website. I was planning on cleaning the case with a 3" conditioning disc on a die grinder.

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stevasaurus

Just be "extremely" careful not to clean so much as to remove metal...thus having a low spot where the thin gasket will not seal.  No gaps.  If you look when you scrape off the gasket...no rust there.  Just clean it up.  :)

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rustykan

Well, I've got all the seals and axle bearings and I am ready to put it back together. I have one question on installing the bearings. Can they be gently tapped in place or should they be pressed in? The needle bearings look kind of fragile.

 

I did get the bearing and seals cheaper through a local Motion Industries, even though they had them shipped from Chicago directly to me. It was cheaper than ordering them online from them. Go figure?

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pfrederi

Pressing is best, but I have put a lot in using a washer bigger than the bearing and a deep well socket against the washer then tap with a hammer.  Just be very careful to stay straight.  if there is a lot of resistance you are staring crooked.  Good presses (not like mine :) ) have a pressure gauge so you can see if you are crooked as the pressure will go way up.

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octfst

Thanks for all the good info

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rustykan

Pressing is best, but I have put a lot in using a washer bigger than the bearing and a deep well socket against the washer then tap with a hammer.  Just be very careful to stay straight.  if there is a lot of resistance you are staring crooked.  Good presses (not like mine :) ) have a pressure gauge so you can see if you are crooked as the pressure will go way up.

I was able to get someone to press the bearings in with no problem. The problem is with getting the seals in. I have bent two trying to install them before I took the transmission apart and the guy who installed the bearings tried and had the same result with the transmission apart. I tried one more at home, trying to be careful, and it bent also. Anyone have any tips or has had the same problems?

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pfrederi

Check that there are no burrs or irregularities in the bore.  Start the seal with your fingers then check and make sure it is even all the way around.  I use a washer and a pipe nipple to seat it if the shaft/axle is in place.

 

If I need 2 seals i usually order three.  They do bend sometimes and having a spare is a good thing.

Edited by pfrederi

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