darren 49 #26 Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks both, for taking time to give such helpful replies. You guys are the best. Stripper it is then! I'll post how I get on. I've got some of those scrapers and a decent pressure washer so I'll give that a try too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tractorman2014 0 #27 Posted August 11, 2014 I do t know if any one can help me or not but I'm teying to figure out what number my wheel horse was of the assembly line. I have a 1990 520 8 speed toro wheelhorse. There was only 225 mass per duces but I wanna know how to figure out what number mine was off the assembly line! Any help?!?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jparkes43 329 #28 Posted August 13, 2014 the mighty 520-h i cant wait james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #29 Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Well, there's a bit more progress to report; I've pulled the loom apart and replaced a couple of wiring runs and a few connectors that didn't look all that great. I managed to source some old-school paint stripper with phenol & dichloromethane in it. Wow.. 10-20 seconds and you can pretty much blow any paint and decals off! Talk about minimal effort; the stuff is serious. So I spent a few hours today stripping the paint off parts, tidying up with the die and angle grinders, then rubbing them down with some isopropol alcohol ready for primer and paint Hood done: I got interrupted after taking the hood shot, my youngest loves tractors and wanted to be in a picture Chassis half-stripped. I'll get this ready for prime tomorrow and spray everything in one go. Rear fender ready for primer A few panels going through the process. Engine tinwork is all painted (matt black) The motor is ready to go back together so I'll crack on with that too. It's starting to come together slowly! Edited August 17, 2014 by darren 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #30 Posted August 16, 2014 Looking good :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #32 Posted September 3, 2014 I've made a bit more progress. Llife got in the way, so it's been slow! Tinwork primed and painted.. A pile of non-red parts The rebuild begins! The engine's pretty much back together although I'm waiting on some gasket paper and new valve stem oil seals before I crank it over to get an idea of how the compression's looking.. The wiring has been stripped and any iffy connectors replaced. Predictably perhaps, the nine-pin multiconnector on the engine loom had a corroded pin so I'm going to replace it rather than risk it, seeing as how some of them are pretty high-load. I was planning on using a 9 pin 3.5mm terminal mate-n-lok http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/683/category/7 which I think should cope with the currents, but the demystification guide and the wiring diagrams seem to indicate the 25A and 30A fuses are wired via it. The OEM multiconnector doesn't seem any heftier than the one I'm looking at though, so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts? This might be one for the electrical section I guess.. More photos to come as I get George back together! My workshop time is being monitored however so I'm balancing it with being a devoted husband 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,300 #33 Posted September 3, 2014 Nice work! I bet everything in your work area has a film of red dust on it ! Mike........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #34 Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks Mike and yup, despite my best efforts, a red film of dust covers pretty much everything it's uncanny how you knew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #35 Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) I've made a bit more progress. Llife got in the way, so it's been slow! Tinwork primed and painted.. A pile of non-red parts The rebuild begins! The engine's pretty much back together although I'm waiting on some gasket paper and new valve stem oil seals before I crank it over to get an idea of how the compression's looking.. The wiring has been stripped and any iffy connectors replaced. Predictably perhaps, the nine-pin multiconnector on the engine loom had a corroded pin so I'm going to replace it rather than risk it, seeing as how some of them are pretty high-load. I was planning on using a 9 pin 3.5mm terminal mate-n-lok http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/683/category/7 which I think should cope with the currents, but the demystification guide and the wiring diagrams seem to indicate the 25A and 30A fuses are wired via it. The OEM multiconnector doesn't seem any heftier than the one I'm looking at though, so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts? This might be one for the electrical section I guess.. More photos to come as I get George back together! My workshop time is being monitored however so I'm balancing it with being a devoted husband I got all my electrical parts to rewire that connector from Del City. Prices are exceptional and the delivery is very fast. They even have the exact four fuse, fuse block with inserts for less than $5.00. Check out this page. Edited September 4, 2014 by km3h Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #36 Posted September 5, 2014 Cheers Nick. I'd spotted that thread. Del City seems to get rave reviews. The only problem is that the shipping to the UK for connectors pushes the price way up. I think I'll need to source something this side of the pond to make it cost-effective. I'll try and understand the various amperages, that'll help me to find a non-oem connector that doesn't become a fire-hazard; I'm probably being over cautious but I want to make sure I eliminate the usual wiring gremlins that tend to plague the Onans/520s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #37 Posted September 5, 2014 If you should have to work on that fuse block, someone said that it is used on some General Motors cars. I just got a 1997 520H and the wiring was a mess. Someone cut all the wires and removed the gages. They tore the dash cover to bits getting the gages out. I got very lucky, as I found a complete wiring harness, with gages in good shape on EBay for $75.00 including the dash. Just like yours, the engine is frozen and I suspect it was left outside for a long time as I can see the results of water in the carburetor. I have not had time to get to it yet as I am restoring a 416H and half finished. The 520 is the next project though. Most of the connectors are standard Molex pins or blade connectors. You can remove the connectors from the sockets and reuse the sockets if they are not burned. The gage of the wire will dictate what size you use and is pretty standard. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #38 Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks again Nick. I'll watch your restorations with interest. Best of luck with the 520; I'm sorry to hear someone's been so ham-fisted with the loom. Great score with the replacement! So.. I spent a bit of time with the wiring diagram. The 9-pin engine multiconnector has to be able to pass a maximum of 30A to the fuses via the red and white wires. I haven't found any multiconnector with this specification. The highest I can find is rated to 20A and looks pretty darned similar. Given the fact that this connector seems a weak point, I can't help wondering whether once connectors start oxidising or corroding, the resultant current increase means the multiconnector ends up acting as the fuse. I did a bit of lateral thinking and realised the connectors I use on my RC heli and multicopter are rated way beyond 30A and I have a stack of them sitting in the drawer. So... I plan to use a pair of these for the two high-current connections and push the rest through a 20A mate-n-lok. By doing this, I reckon I'll be rid of any electrical issues. I know there's talk of the relay locations, there's Glen's relay hood and some people have moved the mounting location, but in the several years this has been sitting exposed, the relay block land connectors look to be in good condition. The tractor's always going to be garaged so I don't see a problem. The wiring overheats on this tractor appear to be the rectifier, as a result of the multiconnector pin deterioration and the rear loom where the lighting circuit has shorted due to abrasion. We'll see, I guess.. Edited September 5, 2014 by darren 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #39 Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) Pond-dredging has meant an enforced break from restoring George but here's the latest update.. I've got him to a rolling chassis stage Seat and dash=tower installed: I'm very pleased with the seat. I had to modify the seat mounting springs very slightly to get it to fit but it feels great and is nice and comfortable. The hood and lights are fitted and the wiring runs are in place. I need to tie it down and protect it next. Does anyone have any pictures of the wiring route for the brake interlock switch? I'm not 100% sure how this routes around the back of the chassis on a hydro.. I've ordered some of Terry's excellent decals, which should improve the looks a bit The oil pan and filter gaskets were okay but I really wanted to replace rather than reuse them so I had a go at making some up out of gasket material. Next up is to set the valve clearances on the engine and to fill it with oil, then I'll crank it over on the starter to check what sort of compression it's capable of. This is the part I'm anxious about! Edited September 14, 2014 by darren Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #40 Posted September 14, 2014 You are doing a great job. Really looking good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #41 Posted September 16, 2014 Del City also has the heavy duty solenoid like came on the C-Series tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
