kohler quality control? connecting rod doesnt fit

[joel_400 59]

Rebuilding a k301. Started assembling tonight. Went well until i put the rod and piston in. It will roll 345 degrees each way. The last 15 is a no go. Long story short the rod hits the bottom of the cylinder! WTF!? Never ran into this problem. Since Im also doing a k321 for another guy I decided to compare the width of the rods. The one I set aside for the 14 is actually wider! .045 or so. Its definitely a no go in the 12, but should work in the 14. At this point Im either going to clearance the block or radius the edge of the rod where its hitting. My main question is here when I installed the rod(oem kohler) the paper work says install to 260 inch pounds which i did for a new rod. It says when installing a used rod 200 is the magic number. Now is my rod new or used? It has been torqued to the new value so should i retorque to that or the 200? Let me know what you guys andvgals think.

Thanks in advance!

Joel

[KC9KAS 4,741]

No expert, but I would say since the rod really hasn't been used (running the engine), it is still new.

[squonk 41,010]

Yes it hasn't gotten hot or stressed yet.

[joel_400 59]

Thats kinda what I thought myself but wasnt sure. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for the input.

Joel

[can whlvr 993]

I had the exact question when I rebuilt my 12 horse,i used the plasiflex to check the rod to crank clearance,i recommend this,its cheap insurance to make sure of proper clearance,so you put it between the rod and crank and torque,remove and use the scale they give on pakage,then retorque the bolts

[Fordiesel69 259]

You have the wrong rod or piston.  Please recheck part#'s before you ruin a good engine.

[joel_400 59]

First off I do have the right parts. 4706710 rod for old style piston even the beam width of th 4506725 is the same and if you knew enough you would know that you can use either rod with the old style piston so dont tell me I have the wrong parts and Im going to ruin a good engine without knowing the facts. I just wanted positive input here not negative comments. When someone asks a question that I have the answer to I dont throw that at them. I give them the best answer I can give based on experience and facts.

[rmaynard 15,408]

I don't think the previous post was made with ill intent, nor was it meant to be a negative comment. The title of your thread "quality control" may just be the problem. I have seen parts marked wrong. I have seen quality issues with some Kohler parts as well as aftermarket parts. The issue is not that you bought the wrong parts, but that it seems more likely that something is amiss with the parts you bought. I too would check and double check before modifying anything. The correct parts, either Kohler or aftermarket should fit without modification to either the rod or the cylinder.

 

As to the torque value. If the engine has not been run, the "new" torque value is the one to use.

[WH nut 553]

Sounds like you know what you are doing so you don't need to ask any questions I guess.

[Fordiesel69 259]

I am aware the narrow or wide rod can be used with the style "A" piston, that is not the problem.  There is never been a case where the clearance has been close enough for concern so that leaves an issue with the crankshaft, or the parts.  Nothing else.  K301 and K321 theoretically have the same stroke and same rods. 

 

Bottom line is that there is somthing wrong.  Your fault or not.  If you grind the rod where it is rubbing, you run the risk of it breaking.  If you grind the block it would be better but there should still not be a reason to do so.  I have never run across this in all the kohlers I have rebuilt.  And I have also used genuine and china parts.