scotty 252 #1 Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Is it possible to weld the hub to the axel or would it not work. I put a new hub on my wheel horse and now the hub has alot of play. or would it be better to get a whole new axel? This is on a b-80. Thanks! Edited July 20, 2014 by scotty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #2 Posted July 20, 2014 Try tapping another set screw into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #3 Posted July 20, 2014 Yea, try the additional set screw. Besides future removal issues you would probably ruin the seal if you welded it on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #4 Posted July 20, 2014 I did it once years ago,both the axle and hub were junk so I did it in a pinch,it worked good till I had a seal leak,then had to repair proper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #5 Posted July 21, 2014 The 2nd set screw would go 90 degrees from the one that is there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #6 Posted July 21, 2014 Welding the cast iron hub to the steel axle is bad metallurgy. Go with second set screw 90 deg. from original. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #7 Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks for the replies but i forgot to mention i already tried another set screw and it seemed to help a little while but then the hub became loose is it possible to axle might be worn out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #8 Posted July 21, 2014 It's possible the axles are worn out...calipers would tell you that...same for the hub. Take a look at your set screws...the bottom of them should have a cup indented...they may be worn out also...new set screw may be in order.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duke 49 #9 Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) there really isn't a short-cut to this repair. As I said before, examine the hubs inside and examine the axels. I have replaced axels & hubs quite a bit,and your better off doing it correctly in the long run. I mentioned the bearings because they can be worn and that leads to a leaky seal too. However, I have been advised not to drive the old bearings inward, could do some damage! Sorry about that! I guess it all depends on how "good " a job you want to do, or if it's a quick fix just to be able an drive the tractor? Edited July 22, 2014 by duke 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #10 Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) Edited July 21, 2014 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #11 Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) Scotty, the way I see it is that the first thing you need to verify is what's causing the slop. It's either the axles or the hubs, It a perfect world there would be no slop when you slide the hubs on the axles. The woodriff key is there to keep the hub from spinning on the axle. The main purpose of the setscrews is to keep the hub on the axle, not to take up slop. Granted, some slop from wear can be helped by the setscrews but it sounds like you're beyond 'some' slop. Now, don't take this wrong but you said you put a new hub on and 'now' it has a lot of slop. Some B80's have 1" axles, some 1 1/8". Per chance????? Edited July 21, 2014 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #12 Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) I took the hubs off and the hole the key way goes in is worn out im not sure what the best route to go is. The new hub didnt increase slop though it helped a little bit but i think the keyway hole is the main cause now. I want it fixed right but im not very good with transaxles haha. Thanks for the replies. Edited July 22, 2014 by scotty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #13 Posted July 22, 2014 Can you post some pictures. You can keep those axles and get the key way welded closed and have a new key way cut at either 90 or 180 degrees. Or pick up some used axles. Either way, this would require splitting the trans. Some pictures would really help here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #14 Posted July 23, 2014 I sadly dont have any way of taking pictures but is opening a new keyway somthing i could do by myself im not very experianced with taking apart transmissions. Also does toro happen to sell new axels or would i be stuck buying a used one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #15 Posted July 23, 2014 No, you won't be able to cut a new keyway without the right equipment. I'm sure somebody here can put you on to somebody that can do it for you. I wouldn't be concerned about being 'stuck' with used axles. Again, I'm sure you can find some here. Don't be afraid to open up the transmission. It really isn't difficult. Yet again, you'll find plenty of help here. You can also download the service manual that will walk you through it...........here. Am I repeating myself?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,882 #16 Posted July 24, 2014 I'm sorry...I can't believe you do not know some one that can help you post pictures of the axles. I sat in the doctor's office today for over an hour, and everyone in there (about 10 people) were all connected to the net. They were all sitting there with there little cell thingy's. Post them on Face Book and give us a link if that is possible. It is almost impossible to give you a direction without seeing what we are talking about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duke 49 #17 Posted July 24, 2014 There are lots of axles on ebay listed by size and part number and fairly inexpensive too. You have your model number? Go to parts tree.com look up Toro -Lawn & Garden Tractors, scroll down the huge list and find your model. Under transaxles you can get the part number. simply enter that on ebay and one or even several will show up with pictures of the keyway and stuff. Plus there are a pile of people here that would have axles. I have one left that is 1-1/8 diameter, longer than normal for a D-series and it is just sitting there like a paper weight! I'd look it up for you if you gave me the model number no problem! I know B-80 is the type. Example model 1-0145 is a B-80 1974 Under Component Parts Trans part 2-27 is number 101880. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racinfool40 202 #18 Posted July 24, 2014 I have about all the parts you would need to re-build the trans and have a pile of axles..But would need alot more info..What trans are we working with here..axle diameter and axle length...only way to get the length of the axle is to split the trans....or I have had a couple guys ship me their transmissions I re-build them and ship them back thru Fastenal. Their is plenty of options. I buy up used or un-wanted transmissions at about every swap meet I attend just for this purpose..Alot of the parts are No Longer Available thru Toro.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scotty 252 #19 Posted July 25, 2014 Thanks for all the help i know someone that can cut new keyways in. -bye. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,251 #21 Posted July 25, 2014 It's OK Steve. You have other friends. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites