Jump to content
stevasaurus

6 SPEED #5060 10 pinion L/S Trans rebuild

Recommended Posts

 
Racinbob

This is going to be a well followed thread by a lot of folks here Steve. Your videos are great. Now that i have the basic knowledge of the 3 speeds it will really help in understanding the 6 speeds. I'm looking forward to learning more from you.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Martin

just watched the differential video, Steve. nicely done. i like the fact that you didn't edit it in anyway, it shows us through your work what to look out for and what problems we may come across while assembling. 

going to watch the others now!!

 

so does this mean that you have now joined the hi/lo rebuilders club?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
racinfool40

Great Vids Steve!!!!..Told ya they wern't to Bad!!!!...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

These videos are going to keep a lot of Wheel Horses from being sent to the glue factory.

 

If anyone needs to open a transmission, they will find these very informative. Nice work!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

These are more designed for the guys doing it the first time...not so much for the guys that have done them before.  I just know that some members have been looking for videos involving the hi/low mechanism...while not the same as an 8 speed...the principle is the same and will work.  r356c, I hope you are right and it gives someone the confidence to tackle these transmissions and fix them...rather then just melt them down.  It really is pretty simple to fix up and give a horse another 40 years.

 

This is what is crazy...if you add up the minutes that I spent doing the videos...it comes to just over 40 minutes to rebuild this trans.  Without the camera and the explanations, this can be done in about 20 to 30 minutes.  You do not need any special tools and fixing this horse costs like $65 and you got a clean, good trans.  I replaced the outer axle bearings, all the seals, the trans gasket, the one axle gear and picked up an input pulley, a new dog point set screw, and new nuts on the differential bolts.  A definite feel good. :)

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

I think that everyone should get a chance to play with the detente balls and spring...push those things together and try to get a shaft by them...while sliding out an Allen wrench and keeping the setup together.  :bow-blue::)

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

And chasing one of the little balls across the garage floor trying to stop it before it finds the exact geographic center of the truck parked in there.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

And chasing one of the little balls across the garage floor trying to stop it before it finds the exact geographic center of the truck parked in there.

 

 

I bought 100 ball bearings from McMaster  I don't even bother to look for the stupid little detent balls when they shoot out and roll away!!! :grin:

  • Like 8
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
groundhog47

:handgestures-thumbup: Excellent videos, Steve, hope they will be  pinned in trans.   :handgestures-salute:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke

Excellent thread, Steve. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

Thanks Steve..I wouldn't even think about opening a tranny, but after watching your tutorial videos, I think I'm ready to try it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JC 1965

Great videos Steve. Very informative and you know they say a pic is worth a thousand words but a video is worth much more. I have a question, do you use any kind of sealant on the trans gasket ?  Thank you for the taking the time to make and share these videos. Many of us will benefit from them.    :thumbs2:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Jerry, I do not use any gasket sealer on the trans gasket...they have been OK for me so far.  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bob's toy

Great videos, not sure if i need to open mine up or not. I am a heavy  Equipment mechanic for Mustang Cat here in Houston and even without the video I thing I could do one easily. But sure is nice to see one done so I don't make a mess of things..My question is, where can we get parts? I have a 1967 1267 machine that I am doing a complete frame up restore and was going to crack it open to see if it needed anything. The problem being if it needed something where to get the parts...As always so glad to be a supporter of a GREAT forum..

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

You might as well open her up. If it needs something you would have to open it anyways and checking it out is a good idea. Parts can be found right here. Racinfool40 has some parts as well as others. Just given a shout and I'm sure you'll find them. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MarkS

I am currently rebuilding a c125. What is used as a seal between each side of the transmission if anything. I ask because i am concerned that I may have blown water in while pressure washing it. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

The gasket is Wheel Horse # 3912.  TORO dealer has them for about $6.00.  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
520hC-120

Thanks for the vids they are very informational me and my dad might split it open to check it out soon taking it out might be a pain though, thanks for the feedback:)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DeepH2O

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. I’m in process of opening up my 8 speed from a 1989 312-8. I’m to the point of removing half the case, but it doesn’t want to let go. Something internally is keeping it from coming apart? Amy ideas before I get a little rougher with it? I’ll attach pics. I feel like it may be something on the shifter end of the case. I cleaned both shafts of any paint or nuts. Any help is appreciated. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DeepH2O

Nevermind. I think I see issue. The shift lever is still installed. I called myself looking for way to remove it and didn’t see anything. Well, upon further investigation, I believe I see problem. Apparently, there’s supposed to be a locking nut and a set screw here but I guess somewhere down the line dad must’ve broken. DANG!! Now I’ve got a whole other problem!!

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DeepH2O

Crisis diverted! Haha. Was able to weld nut onto stub and back it out. New one ordered!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
6 hours ago, DeepH2O said:

Crisis diverted! Haha. Was able to weld nut onto stub and back it out. New one ordered!

Got bit by a broken dog point! You are on the road now!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DeepH2O
On 7/16/2014 at 5:38 PM, stevasaurus said:

These are more designed for the guys doing it the first time...not so much for the guys that have done them before.  I just know that some members have been looking for videos involving the hi/low mechanism...while not the same as an 8 speed...the principle is the same and will work.  r356c, I hope you are right and it gives someone the confidence to tackle these transmissions and fix them...rather then just melt them down.  It really is pretty simple to fix up and give a horse another 40 years.

 

This is what is crazy...if you add up the minutes that I spent doing the videos...it comes to just over 40 minutes to rebuild this trans.  Without the camera and the explanations, this can be done in about 20 to 30 minutes.  You do not need any special tools and fixing this horse costs like $65 and you got a clean, good trans.  I replaced the outer axle bearings, all the seals, the trans gasket, the one axle gear and picked up an input pulley, a new dog point set screw, and new nuts on the differential bolts.  A definite feel good. :)

I can’t tell you how much I appreciate these videos. Although, I was telling someone earlier, if you buy a piece of equipment nowadays, you get a user manual and they say if something is wrong, bring it to a certified repair facility. I loved it when you bought a piece of equipment and you got a user manual, parts manual, and a repair manual!! 
 

This forum continues to be priceless to me on rebuilding/restoring my link to my grandfathers/dad. I love every single minute I’m working and learning something new about my Horse!! 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill
On 7/17/2014 at 11:41 AM, stevasaurus said:

I think that everyone should get a chance to play with the detente balls and spring...push those things together and try to get a shaft by them...while sliding out an Allen wrench and keeping the setup together.  :bow-blue::)

I opened up a 1965 3 speed a while back - I found it easier to use a flat blade screwdriver to depress the balls/ /spring and allow the shift fork shaft to slide by.

Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • giant_g2
      By giant_g2
      Not sure on specific model. This 8 spd came attached to a plow I bought. It had some water in it for a couple weeks according to the prior owner. I drained it, sloshed some diesel in it, drained that, then filled with fresh oil. Spinning the input shaft by hand, I can see the axels turn. Hasn't leaked any oil. I'm not really interested in shipping, so I'd prefer local sales.

    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
    • tomabrown77
      By tomabrown77
      my 1067 stopped moving; limited slip had worn out long ago;  now input pully is turning , but tractor doesnt move --- very slight motion forward or backward if on level ground with no resistance.  Enough to tell me shift lever is actually changing gears.
      I suspect input shaft woodruff keys but might be something worse ... i am interested in perhaps buying a new, used,or rebuilt  transaxle if someone has one they would part with.  And any advice on opening up the transaxle and looking inside .  Or where i can find parts to rebuild it myself...
       
      ps i was on forum about 5 years ago,  forgot my username so i joined again
×
×
  • Create New...