Bigblockvp 0 #1 Posted July 11, 2014 I am trying to remove a steering wheel from a C-105.. This is my first and only tractor and trying to keep it forever! The wheel snapped where the spokes meet the center and now I'm searching for a replacement... I've read the forums on steering wheel removal and they all refer to using a press or puller.. but it appears that the wheels they are referring to all have an open center with a bolt that attaches the wheel to the steering shaft. The C-105 steering wheel has a solid center with a hex hub molded into the center of the plastic wheel. How can I pull this off even if I get a bearing seperator as discussed in the other forums? You cannot press against the solid center of the wheel.. been thinking of a slide hammer of some type but still get stuck on how to attach it.. and when I find a replacement and have to remove that I don't want to break it... And if I cut the steering shaft off, how do you press when the steering wheel center is solid? You need to be able to fasten the wheel to the press and PULL the shaft out...how do you do that? I have a 208-3 which appears to have a similar steering wheel (solid center) but the molded-in hub seems to be round instead of hex.. Any idea if that will fit the C-105? FInally, it the shaft splined so I should NOT try to twist while pulling, hammering, or forcing it off? Any ideas and help as well as sources for a replacement wheel would be appreciated.. THanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,616 #2 Posted July 11, 2014 Run a slotting disc through on the grinder. That how we do it, then it slides off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #3 Posted July 11, 2014 There is a roll pin that holds the steering wheel to the shaft. It is usually in a side to side position when the wheels are straight ahead. Look at what is left of the wheel from the side and about 1/2 inch up from the bottom you will see the roll pin. Spray the pin liberally with either Kroil or PB Blaster at least twice per day for 2-3 days and then using a good roll pin punch, knock the pin out on one side. The wheel hub may still be rusted to the shaft so don't forget to spray where the two meet as well. Usually the resistance of the tires to the ground is enough so that a good twist of the wheel after the roll pin is removed will break the rust bond Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigblockvp 0 #4 Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks Meadowfield...that makes sense for the one thats broken.. but how do you do it for the replacement where you don't want to damage it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigblockvp 0 #5 Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks Supporter.. I'll try that.. since you suggest twisting it does that mean that there are no splines? I already got the roll pin out.. it was sheared into 2 pieces but came out rather easily after som PB blaster.. Same as the roll pin on the 208 tractor - that one was even easier.. but Trying to get Blaster to soak from the bottom of an upright tractor doesn't work too well.. Maybe rags soaked in t wrapped around the shaft.. I don't want to turn the tractor upside down.. Or perhaps wrap the shaft in dry ice to shrink it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,616 #6 Posted July 11, 2014 Remove the pin, turn full lock and see if the wheel will turn on the shaft. Then just turn and pull, you can also undo the whole dash panel with the shaft still in to make it easier. Also on some of the solid wheels you can pop the centre or drill it and unclip then push the shaft out. In the UK pretty well every steering wheel on every horse is seized! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigblockvp 0 #7 Posted July 11, 2014 Great idea! If I remove the whole dash panel on the 208 I can invert it and soak it in PB prior to trying to remove it.. Your comment also implies that there are no splines on the shaft.. is that correct? Thabnks for the great ideas! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,616 #8 Posted July 11, 2014 Not sure about the splines, but the rule is generally if there's a bolt through the top then it's splined. If it's a toll pin through then it's not! Good luck... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #9 Posted July 11, 2014 These dang steering wheels along with axle hubs must be at the top of the list for aggravation on our horses I have a nice wheel I want to save off a C-100 that I have on the bench with the dash panel still attached that I have been jacking with off and on for 2-3 months. The roll pin came out pretty easily but that wheel is welded to the shaft. I put half a can of PB and another half a can of Kroil on that thing and have had the shaft clamped down in my big bench vise cranking with all I had and ---- NOTHING! that wheel is just plain stuck! Grrr.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #10 Posted July 11, 2014 Never had one a press didn't pop.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kudzu3 323 #11 Posted July 11, 2014 Here's my story...I simply could not get my steering wheel off (B 80), even after prolonged soaking, removal of the roll pin and daily tapping with a hammer. My friend and neighbor, who is an engineer with many years of experience as a machinist, fiber glass construction and an abundance of mechanical experience looked at it an said the wheel is crushed on and no matter how much I did to it, it ain't coming off. There are ways to get it off but the conventional ways just won't work. I don't know if yours is crushed on or not but if it is, you have to approach it a little differently. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,488 #12 Posted July 11, 2014 Remove the pin, turn full lock and see if the wheel will turn on the shaft. Then just turn and pull It's never a bad idea during this ^ procedure to have a video camera focused & running . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,112 #13 Posted July 12, 2014 As a backyard hammer mechanic without a press, I take the shortcut, easy way out and just cut the shaft. Do whatever needs to be done and weld the shaft back together. I understand everyone doesn't have a welder so you if you don't, use a 3/4" shaft coupler ( http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shaft-Couplers/1-Piece-Solid-Couplers/3-4-SHAFT-COUPLER-1-1563-C.axd ) Drill 2 holes and connect it with roll pins. If changing steering wheels, just cut the shaft on the new one to the same length you cut the old one. No soaking for days, no knocking out old roll pins, no banging forever with a hammer, no cranking with a puller, no destroying the steering wheel and no aggravation (except for the locking collar sometimes). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazywheelhorseman 67 #14 Posted July 13, 2014 Or come visit me and stop fighting to change it Nd just swap out the whole upper dash and all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigblockvp 0 #15 Posted July 14, 2014 Thanks to EVERYONE for all of the advice. I'm happy to report that crazywheelhorseman provided me the solution! I now have 2 dash towers complete with replacement steering wheels. I plan to swap the whole upper dash and steering shaft assembly as one piece - no need to seperate the wheel from the shaft anymore! I've was able to get an extra hood and steel rear fender to replace my cracked plastic one...Crazywheelhorseman, I think soon it will be time to gather up all the parts for a D-series - winter is coming and I'll need something else for a project! In the meantime, I want to keep looking for a replacement PLASTIC rear fender - I'd like to restore this tractor back to completely original..the steel fender is great but at some point I'll need to be 100% original... Does anyone know how to repair the plastic fender? It's cracked in 1 spot and I lost a small piece from a break on the corner... Anyone out there who has one please holler! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
