Crabtreeb 8 #1 Posted July 4, 2014 I have a b80 that keeps getting stuck in reverse i have taken it apart a once it's apart the problem go's away I put it back together and it works fine for a while then drop it back in to reverse and it won't come out I have watched Steve's video and put it back together three times now just can't figure out what's locking the fork in reverse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #2 Posted July 4, 2014 how does the ball look on the end of the shift lever? and are all the gear teeth in good condition? is the two ball bearings spring and rod for the shift forks detente assembled correctly? Brian 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,683 #3 Posted July 4, 2014 Brian's advise is excellent. Are you saying the when you split the trans, you can then shift out of reverse? When it is stuck, can you rock the horse a little to free the shifter? Are there any issues shifting in and out of any of the forward gears? Is the reverse idler installed with the bevel side up? Is the trans, now, together or split? If the trans is still on the horse...pull the shifter and try shifting with a large screwdriver. If you do have to split it again, some pictures may help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crabtreeb 8 #4 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Happy forth of To every one and thanks for replying I purchased this horse a month ago no problems just a lot of water in the trans. So I cracked the case apart drained and cleaned the gears replaced the needle barrings in the main drive shaft all the needles are accounted for.Replaced the seals and re lubed with 90140 lube. I drove it for about an hour ran threw all the gears every thing worked fine then put it in reverse and it would not release rocked it took the shifter arm out and one fork was in neutral the other was in revers couldnt shift it.so i took it apart and the fork for revers wouldnt come out so i pulled the other fork out no problem then took a large box wrench and pried out the fork. I cleaned the forks pulled the balls spring and that rod inside the spring not rusty or flat so cleaned the parts and put it back together. Same problem. the fork was stuck. there was some ware on the gear that has its own shaft and has a bevel on one side it may be a idler gear. I Took the transmission apart drained all the fluids looking for metal.I found nothing. the shifter arm looks brand new and the ball on the end is round and the doughnut around the shaft also looks good. I did notice that as i was shifting the gears seamed like the drive belt was to short because even with clutch fully depressed the drive pulley was still turning. I dont know if its supposed to stop turning when I press the brake or not. Edited July 5, 2014 by Crabtreeb 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,408 #5 Posted July 5, 2014 You must have the belt cover on to be able to fully stop the belt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,683 #6 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Everything sounds like you did it right. That gear that is on it's own shaft is the reverse idler...and the bevel needs to face up when installed. When you shift into reverse, the 1st and reverse fork gear engages the reverse idler...thus reversing the direction of all the other gears. Like Bob said...the belt guard enables the belt to stop rotating by forcing slack toward the engine pulley when the clutch is depressed. If your belt is not stopping, this may be your problem. The backside of the guard has some guides attached that direct the belt...these guides may also be mounted to the frame or engine block. I think there are usually 2 or 3 guides. Regardless, the guard has to be mounted for the clutch thingy to work. Let us know. Thank you for typing all that information...that really helps us try to figure out what is right and wrong and helps us make other suggestions. Edited July 5, 2014 by stevasaurus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crabtreeb 8 #7 Posted July 5, 2014 I have the belt guard on but the belt wont slip i tried putting a belt 82" long 5/8" thick and removed the stop nut so i can press the idler pully all the way down still catching can you explain how the cover causes slack in the belt, I spread the tabs on the belt cover that are closest to the motor, is that whats wrong? If so how do you set them? Thanks for all the help so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,683 #8 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Sure, while not your tractor the principle is the same. Walfish just did this at the show for WheelHorse 57 on his horse. Here are the pictures. In the pictures, you can see the rods that are bent and attached to the engine and frame that force the slack toward the engine pulley, and thus the belt stops rotating when the clutch is depressed. Wallfish took 2 screwdrivers and used the shanks to determine where the rods should be. This take 2 people...one operating the clutch (with the engine running and the trans in neutral) and the other person holding the screwdrivers above and below the belt...acting like the guides that are on the inside of your guard. Your tabs should operate like the 2 screwdrivers. Does this make since? Edited July 5, 2014 by stevasaurus 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crabtreeb 8 #9 Posted July 6, 2014 I must admit I'm not sure how the tabs work but I will give it a go Wednesday evening. Till then thanks for all the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026 #10 Posted July 6, 2014 Part 2 of this manual illustrates how the tabs should be adjusted Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026 #11 Posted July 7, 2014 Have you tried removing the shifter and looking into the hole to see if the rear shift rail (2nd and 3rd gear) is in neutral (centered in the hole) when it is locked in reverse? Reverse and 1st is the front shift rail. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crabtreeb 8 #12 Posted July 7, 2014 I think I found the culprit there was some metal bits in the guide that the fork rides in on the deep side of the trans axle i took a drill bit and ran it in revers in the hole and what looked like pieces of an old wire brush came out it seams to be shifting fine now. Also I had opened the tabs all the way out on my belt gaurd and I wast disengaging the pulley when I mashed in the clutch. Still haven't got them set going to try it when I get off work this evening, thanks for all the help every one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,683 #13 Posted July 7, 2014 Sounds like you have it figured out. Yes, sometimes that is all it takes is a few pieces of wire stuck in the right pace, Glad you found it and figured it out...you should be good now. Let us know if that works for you. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
