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Jrblanke

My 876 project

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Jrblanke

Back in December I picked up a WH 876 from a guy who had had moved to NC from NJ. It was used for snow duty up north, but didn't get much use if any down here. Not sure how long it was in the barn, but it was a long time. I plan to use it for mowing duty because my yard has a lot of tight turns. I think the hydro and short frame combo will be fun to mow with. 

 

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Anyways, after wrapping up some other projects this spring, I started messing with the ol' short frame today. I removed the carb, and was really surprised at how clean it looked! removed the needles, bowl, float, and needle looked great. So I did a quick clean on the float and bowl and put it back together.

 

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Next I took the fuel pump off. I knew it was not working when the tractor last ran because the old fuel line had bypassed the fuel pump. What I was not expecting was to see the arm missing from the fuel pump. Not being familiar with these fuel pumps, I am not sure if there are any other parts missing from this side of the pump, I hope they are not inside the engine block....  :eusa-think:

 

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After taking it apart, I found there to be some corrosion on the inside, but it didn't look too bad. it did seem to have all of the internal parts. 

 

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Anyways, The next step is to either get a new fuel pump from napa, or try to find a cheap used pump and make a franken-pump. After that I'll change the oil in the engine and hydro and hopefully get 'er crunked up! 

Edited by Jrblanke
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sorekiwi

The early fuel pumps were pulse operated, so didnt have a lever to actuate the diaphram.  Maybe with a clean up, it will work again

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Jake Kuhn

Mike is correct, they are a vacuum type pump. I would try a cleanup first to see if it will work, and if that doesn't work a small engine shop should be able to get you a rebuild kit. That 876 looks like a great project, and looks like with just a cleanup it would look great again. :)

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Jrblanke

I picked up the rubber piece from Brian (Buckrancher) at the show in PA. I'll clean it up and see if it works.

 

Any tips on what to clean it with?

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Jrblanke

I was out of town for most of the weekend, but I got to work for a little bit tonight when I got back in. I now understand how the fuel pump works. I have never seen one that uses the crank case pressure to operate. Pretty cool!

 

I used some 400 grit sand paper and a glass table top to make sure the mating surfaces were flat. I used a black perminent marker to color the surface to tell where the high spots were. Below is an example of the pump surfaces being colored, and then 30 seconds or so of sanding. 

 

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Here it is after I finished. Got most of the scratches out. I think the remaining marks will be sealed by the rubber. 

 

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Here are the pieces before being assembled along with the rubber piece I got from Brian.

 

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Here is the finished product after I trimmed the excess rubber. Not pretty, but the tractor will retain it's original look, so I a not too worried about it.

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I also changed the oil in the K181, changed the spark plug, cleaned out the gas tank, put the carb and fuel pump back on, and unfroze the fuel shut off valve. I need to pick up some fittings to screw into the fuel pump before it can be hooked up to the new fuel line. 

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Jrblanke

Quick update, Got the motor started! I think I heard what is refered to as the "kohler knock?"

 

I reinstalled the metal fuel line with new compression fittings, cleaned all the wire connections and replaced any connectors that were broken. Tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. I found a wiring diagram and figured out that I didn't reconnect the big black wire that ran from the ignition switch to the top of the generator. It was tucked back under the dash where I couldn't see it.

 

I also got the cigarette lighter working (which was pretty amazing by the way). I gave it a bath with simple green and the power washer, but It could use another bath. I reeeeally want to disassemble it, power wash it, then reassemble.

 

The next items to tackle:

1. fuel cut off valve is not letting fuel flow from the tank to the fuel filter, so I will need to either take it apart (again) or replace. I unstuck it one time already.

 

2. Reconnect the governer, refill with SAE30 (accidently put in 10w30 last time), replace the air filter, reconnect the choke/throttle cables

 

3. Possibly power wash again after applying kerosene to greasy spots

 

4. Apply grease to the recommended locations.

 

5. Drain the old oil out of the trans and refill, then take it for a test drive

 

6. Need to remove the tires from the rims and apply patches to the cracks in the side walls. I really like the look of the old wheel horse tires and want to keep them. If I can find the proper size tubes to fit, I will get those.

 

7. Replace the steering wheel. Current one is all cracked up. I have a parts tracter from which I can remove the steering wheel (hopefully no crazy rust issues).

 

After that, I will attack the deck. I have 4 parts decks that I can combine to make 2 good ones.

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Jrblanke

Well, in short, I cut grass with the 876 today!

Earlier this week I got the transmission drained, new filter put on, and the new drive belt installed. I am really pleased with how easy it was to install the drive belt. Gotta love a simple machine! On my first drive, I was surpised with the lack of power that I had, but then I realized I didn’t have the tow valve screwed in all the way, haha.

Also, I had it in my head that I was going to be using the deck I got from Craig at the PA show (it was the deck that came on his 875 from Scott). But when I got ready to transfer the cast iron spindle holder from the bottom of one of my parts decks, I realized that the deck I got from Craig was a 36â€. I was excited, and disappointed at the same time, haha. I ended up making one of the parts decks work. I was supprised at how well the mower cut! I guess I wasn’t expecting a 48 year old lawn mower to cut as well as it did.

The two things I am still a little concerned with is:

 1) At full throttle seems to run the little kohler too fast. It just sounds like it is running at a really high RPM.  And

2) I have to hold the control lever in order to keep it from increasing ground speed. I feel like I am always holding it back. If I let go of the speed control lever, the tractor accelerates to max speed.
 

 

 

 

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Out with the old and in with the new:

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A straw wrapped in 'merica duck tape made for quick fill of the transmission fluid. Since what came out of it was ATF, I figured I should just put ATF back into it. 
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This is what the bottom of the deck looks like. I am planning to take the deck back off and POR15 it. just took this picture as a before type picture. 

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The lift bar was bent so I had to help it back to its original shape with the pry bar. 
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This is a post mowing shot. It was definitely an interesting experience driving this thing. As I mentioned before, I am going to have to figure out why the transmission is accelorating to full speed without me touching the lever.

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Wheel-N-It

Looking good James! Hey, now we need a pic of you on the tractor. Lets see what a tall frame driver looks like on a short frame tractor!!!

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slammer302

I've heard that the older automatic transmission are more of a handful to control my dads pride and joy charger 10 will do the same thing

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Jrblanke

next thing to do is adjust the clutch discs in the trans. I believe that explains my acceloration issue. 

 

OK Van, here is what a 6'3" 260 pound guy looks like on a short frame. My size 14 clod hoppers don't fit very well on the foot pegs. 

JamesVintageMower_zps23da9b6b.jpg

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Wheel-N-It

Hey, you did that just for me! Thanks James! :thanks:  :D

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AMC RULES

:scared-eek:  Good thing you found a Clydesdale James.   :text-woo:

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